So What Can Be Done For Tire Rub

I put Goodyear DuraTrac 215/R85 16 on the 58 and everything seemed fine until I went to turn sharp. Runs on the front spring and opposite side on the back side of the frame, or whatever. What, if anything can be done?

 

Might be from using a radial tire on a vehicle designed for a bias-ply. Much wider sidewall aspect.

Adjust the steering stops on the axle. On the inside of the knuckle area. Might have to cut the factory weld on the threads.

Or don't turn so sharp.

Wheels with more offset might cure it. But would change the steering geometry somewhat.

 

I don't like spacers...........but perhaps a 1/2"-1" might work for you.

 

simple just learn how new tires affect turning . and live with it . or do what pete said try and adjust steering stops

 

A dana 30 would fix that.

 

For now it's obviously a try to avoid sharp turns but sometimes you get into a tight spot and will automatically cause a driver to crank it. Getting that point across to me will be a challenge, let alone to a driver not expecting it like wife, son, daughter, etc. Long term I guess I need to look into the adjusting steering stop.

 

I have that size tire on the A1 and they don't rub. But I still have the Bendix axle shafts in there and they don't allow a sharp turn at all. You might have the Spicer shafts that allow a sharper turn and therefore it rubs. Can't add to any of the prior advice.

 

I had this issue with mine. I am using 1" spacers now, they don't rub. I am building my Dana 30 for the front and then I should be able to run without the spacers and not rub.

 

its very easy to adjust the stops. a little turning makes a big difference. I have 3/8" spacers on mine. It takes the wheels out to the end of the threads. but i have 31 x10.5-15 tires. I dont think you need them

 

I'm thinking Rzeppa joints in that year?

 

I live with it. I also have a D30 too. Guess the 35x12.5x15 are too wide...

 

So in short answers, why go with D30? I understand can do disc then, but can I still run the factory KH rims? What kind of cost and major issues doing this?

 

The 30 is stronger, has better parts availability, has open knuckles with standard u-joints & ball joints, can be had with disc brakes, and is a couple inches wider allowing for sharper turning. Cost will vary depending on how much you have to pay for one, and what gear ratio you wind up with. The search function is your friend, this has been discussed a lot in the past.

 

Thanks for input. I did search but they seemed to dive into the heavy technical issues and not a global this is what it means. My sense was they were I'm doing this but running into xxx and what to do. And many doing more serious work on their rig. Mine is a simple at the mountain cabin, some forest roads, camping, running around town, summer and winter with existing 134, not rock crawling, mudding, jacked up, more power engine, etc.

So I'm trying to understand from cost/issues vs benefits. I get that you can get discs, stronger, etc., but being couple inches wider create issues, fabing, etc.? Does gear ratio need to match rear and that's issue finding, cost to swap out, etc? In other words before you start down that path, expect $xxx cost, going to have to xxx or else xxx and then xxx.

 

The Dana 30 is 3" wider overall..........or 1.5" per side........spring perches are in the same place as what you have now........so it will bolt right up.......The shock mounts may have to be moved and in some cases the front drive shaft shortened? Gear ratio has to match and the drag link changed.....................Better for most applications , maybe not yours?

 

for your intended use of the jeep you would probably be better off by just adjusting the steering stops. it takes a couple wrenches and 5 minutes to do and wont cost you anything.

 

+1
And if the loss of turning radius turns out to be an issue, 1" wheel spacers won't do any damage with your intended use.

 

Thanks guys, that is what I was basically thinking. Adjust the stops and see if that floats my boat.