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Clutch Linkage Help!

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by Iandavidh, Mar 14, 2019.

  1. Mar 14, 2019
    Iandavidh

    Iandavidh Member

    California
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    EC3BD4F4-6F62-4494-9068-62D3856B834E.jpeg
    So I just replaced all of my clutch linkage because it was so worn out. Popped the hood after driving it for a couple days and noticed the bracket circled in the picture above has a lot of movement. I’ve got it shimmed up to make the bellcrank more perpendicular to the bellhousing. The bracket itself is not the problem but the way it is mounted seems to be the culprit. Has anyone else had this problem and how can I fix it? I’m not going to keep driving it like this because i’d rather not break it off of my bellhousing. That would be a fun job to do:D
     
  2. Mar 14, 2019
    johneyboy03

    johneyboy03 The green beast

    Quebec, Canada
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    time for hydro clutch ;)
     
  3. Mar 14, 2019
    45es

    45es Active Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Naches, WA
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    I agree with johneyboy03, go hydraulic clutch. To me, your bellcrank assembly will never be long lived mounted like that. At one end it is hard mounted to the frame, a stationary point. The other end it is mounted to the engine which is always moving which means constant stress and wear.
     
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  4. Mar 14, 2019
    Iandavidh

    Iandavidh Member

    California
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    Can you recommend a temporary fix until i get the funds for hydro clutch parts? How difficult is the swap?
     
  5. Mar 14, 2019
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2022 Sponsor

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    On mine that bracket bolts to the bell housing with 5/16 bolts and has shims on both sides for what ever reason After locktight on the bolts it hasn’t been an issue.
     
  6. Mar 14, 2019
    53A1

    53A1 Member

    Kern Co. Ca.
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    Is that how it was designed stock? As I reacall the early models had a ball joint on both the tranny and frame so the clutch shaft could withstand movement. The shaft had spring cups on each end to ride on the ball joints. There wasn't much tranmission movement so it didn't affect the clutch pedal much. If that is a solid bolt connecting two pivot points that's a problem. Maybe investigate the oringal design or early designs other models used.
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2019
    45es likes this.
  7. Mar 14, 2019
    45es

    45es Active Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Naches, WA
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    Investigate what 53A1 suggests. Done properly, it actually could be your permanent fix.

    Do a search here on the forum. Lots of information available.
     
  8. Mar 14, 2019
    Iandavidh

    Iandavidh Member

    California
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    Mine has the shims as well. Its to make the bellcrank perpendicular to the bellhousing. How dead on perpendicular does it need to be? If I take out the shims to give the bracket more surface area to attach to; the bellcrank is definitely at an angle.
     
  9. Mar 14, 2019
    Iandavidh

    Iandavidh Member

    California
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    Its a stock setup as far as I know. I think you are describing a pre-71 cj5.
     
  10. Mar 14, 2019
    53A1

    53A1 Member

    Kern Co. Ca.
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    That could be. All my jeeps are pre 71 so I'm not sure. IMO the early design looks better than what you have there so I'm curious if it's original. From what I can see what you have there won't tolerate any horizontal or vertical movement of the tranny without the bolt kept loose.
     
  11. Mar 14, 2019
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    The bellcrank is factory equipment starting in 1973. 1972 had a retrofit kit to replace the OEM cable with the bellcrank.

    Year, model, equipment? Good to put that in your sig; it nearly always matters. Make sure you have the right parts. The configuration changes 72, 73-75, 76 on.
     
  12. Mar 14, 2019
    Iandavidh

    Iandavidh Member

    California
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    Yeah it’s not the greatest design.
     
  13. Mar 14, 2019
    Iandavidh

    Iandavidh Member

    California
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    My bad. 1973 cj5. Originally a 232 and a 3 speed but now has a 258 and a T18
     
  14. Mar 14, 2019
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    Should not move without moving the bell, engine, transmission, etc. It's solidly bolted to the bell normally; one threaded into the bell and one through bolt. You have the wrong sized bolts maybe.
     
  15. Mar 14, 2019
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2022 Sponsor

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    Mine is off a little some have had trouble when flexed out but I haven’t. I used hiem joints at all the pivot spots and keep it greased well.
     
  16. Mar 14, 2019
    Chilly

    Chilly Active Member

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    Check that your stack of shims and bracket are flat. If theyre all wobbly like a stack of mismatched dinner plates then it wont be rigid. Any grease or dirt between the layers will result inna sloppy joint. Seems lile your hardware stack isnt solid for some reason.

    If parts arent flat you can make them flat with emory paper on a flat surface.
     
  17. Mar 14, 2019
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    Another vote for the ball studs here, that looks like something I'd come up with :sick:
     
  18. Mar 14, 2019
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    Jeep T-18 or Ford? Which bell? The 232 with T-14 uses the same bell as the Jeep T-18 for that year (ie the close ratio, 4.02:1 1st variant). If you have a Ford t-18 that's been converted using the T-150 or T-176 bell, it's going to be a little different, and alignment may not be perfect. The '76-on part may work better in that case. However, the bracket should still be bolted solidly to the bell and not move without moving the whole drivetrain.

    The linkage that benefits the most from the Heim joint treatment is the ball joint on the pushrod into the clutch release lever. The ball joints on the foot pedal rod can be switched out too, ut they don't see nearly as much force as the release lever location. That pushrod ball joint wears out fast, and when it breaks you typically lose the pushrod. You could tie a shoelace from the pushrod back to the frame so you don't lose it if it breaks, but the Heim joint works well and is easy to adapt.
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2019
  19. Mar 14, 2019
    Iandavidh

    Iandavidh Member

    California
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    The Jeep is very much Frankenstein in terms of the drivetrain. Previous owner kinda pieced it together from a few different Jeeps. I am not sure about the origin of the transmission and the bell housing. The ‘76 and up part is definitely a no I ordered one to make sure.
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2019
  20. Mar 14, 2019
    Andy Salagaj

    Andy Salagaj Joshua70x7

    Colorado
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    I've never seen any jeep advice that suggested a shoelace! I love it!
     
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