Dana 24 Twin-stick Conversion

Who makes a good "conversion kit" to convert a Dana 24 to the twin-stick..?
I have looked at the OMIX version...Looking for a better quality..?

Thanks,

George

 

Dana 24? The ford unit?

 

Yeah... It is in my 58' 3/4T, 4whl, Texas Forestry Truck I put back together back in the early 90's. It is in the background of my Picture there with my EMA....
What I was wondering.... If the D24 CAN be twin-sticked..? I use the truck for recoveries therefore used hard, but not abused. It would be a great help to be able to lock & unlock axles front to back.
If I have to fabricate...then so be it...maybe..? This D24 Ford unit is the unit that the front drive shaft is down on the D-Side, Center to the rear & the shift rails are on the D-side above the front shaft.
The 4spd is a T98. T98 has threaded mounting available to both sides ( Two threaded bosses each side ). This all said... I am thinking that a twin-stick would be the same side of the T98...Left of the 4spd lever, but close as my gas foot is there as well..?
I do have a full machine shop + all welding machines... TIG, MIG, Stick, & the fire thing.
Any help would be GREATLY appreciated if anyone has done this or seen a "kit" as I really don't want to re-invent this if possible...maybe just add to or modify...?
EMA is running now with the fully rebuilt GM-S10 mtr... Will have back on the road into February 22 ...Another project...

 

That is such an obscure t-case at this point, I’d be amazed if there were any kits available that weren’t just generic “universal” kits.

Everything I’ve read on the D24 refers to it as the “big brother” of the D20. Whether or not adding a twin stick to a D24 will give you your intended results, I have no idea, but a D20 has infinite selections when twin-sticked. I personally don’t know if any pill removals are necessary, or if its design even allows you to disengage the front drive in low range. Hopefully someone else with more knowledge on these will chime in.

 

Thanks for your input here... ! I have a spare T98, but not a spare D24 to mock this up for "operation". I guess I could put the truck up on jack stands and try to cycle the shafts separately..? If there is maybe someone out there that would know the operation of these shafts without damage to the D24 would be greatly appreciated.
I guess before I do something REALLY stupid ( breaking a gear ).... Would really need to understand if this is even possible..?
Option B' on this may be the 300-series transfer case..? Then the question would be durability of the 300 compared to the D24?
Not trying to make a "Rock Crawler" just could use the option of front or back axle options on this.
Thanks..!

 

I'ld call some people who make d20 twin stick kits. Advance adapters, Novak come to mind. See what they know or if they can make it happen.

 

JB conversions is what comes to mind. This is what the Commando guys use.
https://jb-custom-fabrication.myshopify.com/

 

Thanks..!
Have sent out messages to these sources.
Looking now for a PDF version of the internal parts layout of this case.

 

This looks like an Dana 24 diagram from this page: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1608265-dana-24-input-shaft.html



It *appears* to work the same as a D20 so I think your twin stick idea will work if there is a neutral position on the rear output.

 

I found this but my version was so blurry.... Thank You..!
Curious what the pins # 7229 are for..?
The 372720-5 Ball and pin...Detent..?

 

7229 are the interlock pins. They go between the shift rods and keep the rods from being shifted into unwanted positions. Example would be front in high range and rear in low range.

 

So to understand this.... If I was to "split" this with two levers. One lever would be REAR with High / Low option + Neutral. 2nd Lever would be FRONT with High / Low + Neutral.
The danger would be then there would be no way to safeguard against either end being in the "non-matching" gearing....hence the reason for the pins..?