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1971 Restoration.

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by RedWing, May 5, 2019.

  1. txtoller

    txtoller Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Looking good!

    As far as the spring shackle bushing, I did it like 65seejayfive posted.
     
  2. RedWing

    RedWing Member

    This is Brilliant! Thank you, ill give it a try today! Ill let you know how it goes!
     
  3. RedWing

    RedWing Member

    Ok, I tried the threaded rod and socket suggestion and it’s worked great, but I think I may be removing only part of the whole assembly. The bushings in the frame have a steel sleeve that the bolt goes through, followed by the rubber bushing, followed by another steel sleeve. Looking at the diameter of the new bushings, it looks like I’ve got to remove the outer steel bushing (Stuck in the Frame). Do you think it needs to be removed? It just a tad bigger outside dimension than the new rubber bushing.

    Thanks for any suggestions and advice on how to get the outer steel portion of the old bushing out.

    Happy Memorial Day everyone!
     

    Attached Files:

  4. 65seejayfive

    65seejayfive Blazin’ new trails

    If I’m looking at your first picture correctly, the only thing left once you have everything out should be the black sleeve that’s actually part of the spring hanger. That sleeve should run from one side to the other. Everything else inside needs to come out. Someone else correct me if I’m wrong or looking at it incorrectly. Happy Memorial Day!

    Red arrow shows what should stay
    [​IMG]
     
  5. RedWing

    RedWing Member

    Thanks, that’s what I was thinking, but it won’t budge. I may have to cut it out. Any suggestions?
     
  6. 65seejayfive

    65seejayfive Blazin’ new trails

    Outlined in red is the old shackle bushing that needs to come out, this is where my all thread and sockets came into play. I tried beating, heating, drilling, cutting, even cursing and the only thing that worked was the all thread. I hope I’m understanding you correctly. My new shackle came with new bushings and the sleeves were a TIGHT fit. One end was tapered and with a little grease and with a few good whacks my new bushing was in.
    [​IMG]
     
  7. sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    just went through this I used an air chisel to slice the steel sleeve and pushed it out.
     
  8. sgogpn

    sgogpn From the top of Lions Back... 2022 Sponsor

    I remove them a little bit differently. I drill the rubber/poly out between the outer sleeve and the center insert with a small drill bit going all around until the center insert taps out. It usually takes the rubber/poly with it at that point. For the outer sleeve I try to start at the top and tap downward enough to make a little space for some PB or WD, tapping and spraying until it lets go.
    I install new bushings by spraying the rubber/poly with lube and tapping it in flush. I then lube the center insert, and press it in with a big C clamp.
    Super easy, and takes no time at all.

    FWIW,
    Mike
     
  9. Framer Mike P

    Framer Mike P Member

    It looks to me like there is a crack in the frame just above the weld of the shackle hanger. I would want to address that before installing the new bushings.
     
  10. jeepstar

    jeepstar Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    i think the circled part is the crack in question?
    i use a sawzall blade and cut thought half the bushing. then a big drift punch and BFH. i drew a line where i make the cut. make 2 if you have a good blade, it goes quick enough.



    upload_2019-5-29_12-50-8.png
     
  11. RedWing

    RedWing Member

    Glad you noticed that crack area, I’ll take a closer look and weld it up if it’s a crack there. I’ll pick up a saws all blade that will fit through the hole and saw them out.

    The replacement bushings I purchased don’t have the out steel sleeve, they are all urethane I believe. Should I search around for some like the ones I need to cut out?
     
  12. sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    The urethane ones will work fine lube them on the outside press em in don’t forget the center sleeve. As a bonus they are easier to remove later.
     
    RedWing and Twin2 like this.
  13. RedWing

    RedWing Member

    I’ll cut the steel out and use the urethane!
     
  14. RedWing

    RedWing Member

    Good Morning all, it's been a while, but I though i'd post a couple updates on my body reconstruction (destruction maybe). Any way I'm at the point where I need to put the body back on the frame and locate the mounting holes, which will help me get the hat channels in the correct positions.

    Does anyone no if the rear valance on the back of the tub lines up flush with the rear x member of the frame or does the body hang over a tad bit? I circled the area im asking about in one of the photo's. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
     

    Attached Files:

    ojgrsoi likes this.
  15. RedWing

    RedWing Member


    Sorry I forgot the picture with the circles .
     

    Attached Files:

  16. ojgrsoi

    ojgrsoi Retired 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    I would vote flush.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Twin2 likes this.
  17. RedWing

    RedWing Member

    Thanks, Those are two beautiful Jeeps!
     
    ojgrsoi likes this.
  18. RedWing

    RedWing Member

    I just about have the body rebuilt, and will post some pics soon. Last items are the cowl supports. I didn’t pay close enough attention to the old ones when I took them out. They were pretty rotted out.

    Any way, can anyone tell me if they go from the front floors all the way to the top of the cowl? My new run from the floor to about an inch shy of the top of the cowl. I just didn’t know if the go all the way to the top of the cowl.