Upper Steering Shaft U-joint

‘72, manual steering

The u-joint connecting my intermediate and steering column shafts has play and needs to be replaced. The TSM says this is non-repairable and the “assembly” needs to be replaced in this situation. I see what appears to be a u-joint cross for sale by itself though so I wasn’t sure what “non-repairable” in that wording meant. Will the old one come out of the yokes like any other typical ujoint assembly would or do I have to replace the whole joint and yokes set up? Although easier to replace the whole thing, looks like it would save me about $50-$75 or more at least to just do the u-joint cross itself if I can get it out. After 50 years may have to cut it out I guess to prevent damage to the yokes. Just curious what others have done.

 

I would think you could do that . I would try to press it out first......if that doesn't work ,Then you could order the whole assembly.

 

Yes just find the correct size cardan cross which is the same size as many pto joints.
Some are greaseable and some are not
Not sure what size they call it.
The yokes are very heavy duty for the application and reusable.

 

I have the same problem with my joint. I did see those joints for sale too but have not ordered one. I noticed on mine there appeared to be some sort of crimp holding the joint in the yoke maybe making changing difficult. I also need the joint/slip coupling down at the steering gear end of the shaft. Have you checked that joint on your shaft? That joint usually wears out first. The slip coupling joint repair kit will not come with the cross pin in the main shaft and that will probably be worn also requiring replacement of the entire shaft. My thinking is with being faced with the purchase of a full shaft and both joints it would probably be better to just buy an after market shaft assembly like Borgenson or maybe flaming river for very little more money.
Probably a worthwhile upgrade anyway. Maybe someone here can recommend the best after market shaft. Just my 2 cents worth.

 

My yokes have internal “C” clips on the cardan joints.

The MS bell coupler is 8121299.
The PS bell coupler is 8121300.
Or they can both use kit # 8132676.
The cardan yoke assembly is 990192.

I don’t see that the intermediate shaft cross pin at the bell coupler is normally a valid concern.

 

Those little ends of the cross pin were worn a little on my shaft. just enough to create a little play in the joint. but then mine being worn may be the exception, it did have quite a lot of rusty water and dirt in there. It would be nice if the cross pin was available or at least possible to remove it so one could be made. I think it is welded in place though.

 

The cross pin is a press fit so you can hammer it out.

The only problem is see with the kit is that the boot is designed to fit over the later double “D” shafts.

 

I rebuilt my lower shaft once. That boot is made of something that looks like rubber from a distance but is total garbage. Inflexible and brittle rubber-like material. I upgraded the lower shaft for no reason except lack of a decent rubber boot.

 

Hey Chilly ......Long time gone ?

 

Ah, I did not know that. Did you find a supplier for the pin? I am thinking it is not included in the repair kit. The Jeep parts diagram shows the shaft and pin as one part.

 

You’re right the 1973 UPC shows no part number for the cross pin.
Nor does it provide a part number for the pre-1976 bell coupler boot.
If you want it, you can have the spare cross pin shown in the above pic.

 

Thank you for offering the pin. I do have a complete shaft assembly with both joints at the shop I have pulled from a salvage yard jeep. I have not had time to disassemble it yet. I have some hope it might have a good shaft and pin, but the u-joint at the other end is like mine, toast. I will try and break it down this week and check it out. I will let you know. Thanks again Jim

 

Those sure look nice oldtime! Just dragged my column out and mine look to have a lot of rust where the inner splines are. I have to clean them yet, but one of them looks like the splines might be worn down or flattened. This thread is answering a lot of questions I didn't even know I had.

 

Just coming back to report that I was able to remove the original cross from the upper joint surprisingly easily once I brushed away the old grease and grime. I ordered the replacement u-joint cross…18017.02 from Omix, and it fit perfectly. Was less than 1/2 the cost of replacing the whole joint assembly. Works perfectly. No play at all. Success!

 

That is good news, thanks