225 V6 Clutch Fork Needed

Well, someone has to try it. I ordered a replacement clutch fork clip spring to try reviving the OE for I have. The spring was 50% more than an entire Omix fork but it will be worth it if it makes a functional part.

For the rivet, I guess I'll try heating it red hot with a torch and peaning it over. I may need to fab a concave rivet-set punch for a well shaped head.

 

This was a common fix for GM clutch forks in the 60, 70's, and 80's. Back then a fork was in the range of 10 bucks or so and the spring was under 2. You could get the springs from NAPA or the dealership who had them on the shelf.

As noted, given the quality of just about anything today, it's still a crap shoot.

I've done a couple of these way back when and if memory serves we used a small machine screw/bolt with the end swagged in lieu of heating and mashing the rivet.
Again, I'm dredging up thirty year old memories so some errors may occur.

 

Thanks for all the responses. I also had no idea you could order just the spring.

Rock Auto contacted me to let me know that the LUK fork was back in stock. I bought one to see how it looked. Seems like it is a good replacement. I'll probably swap it out the next time I pull the transmission (my rear main has started leaking ).

 

Are you going to have to modify the LUK clutch fork or could you use it as is? From the picture, it looks like the part where the cable attaches is a circle and not a “C”.

 

I don't know. I installed the used fork I purchased and put the LUK fork on the shelf, and somehow the LUK fork has disappeared. If I ever find it again I'll know the answer.

 

I hope this is still working for you. I followed your lead and ordered that novak fork as well.

 

I found my wayward LUK fork. Here are some photos to compare it to my rusty replacement fork:



The metal frame looks very similar, but the spring is a little different. I tried installing the LUK fork but it did not fit on the clutch throw out bearing properly. The ears of the spring were too far apart.

I decided to try bending the ears a little but to see if it would fit better. A very small amount of force with some pliers broke the tab off:



Onto the scrap metal pile it goes...

Based on my experience with the LUK fork I can't recommend it.

 

I guess I look at things a little differently. I certainly understand your frustration but why not contact the manufacture, explain the problem of the manufacture defect and ask them how to address the issue? The worst that can happen is they don't help, and you have more junk to recycle which is the case now.
Tel.: +1 800 274 5001
Email:aftermarket.us@schaeffler.com or for technical support: Email:info@repxpert.us

 

I just replaced my spring with the one from a corvette 55-81 all the same, any corvette resto place has them, so easy a caveman can do it, either get a cold rivet squeezer or use a small bolt and self locking nut same diameter. Forks are pretty sturdy, and using the original fork takes the guess work out of the spacing.

 

Far from being frustrated, I'm happy it broke in my hands instead of after I installed it.

 

I agree. I can only imagine the anger felt had it broke while out driving.

 

I also used the cast fork but cut it down and rewelded/brazed for the same length as stock fork when I did the SM420 conversion.
Works fine.
I like how the t/o bearing engages on this fork; much better than the stock fork.