Flat Towing - Trying to separate facts from all the hype

My 75 TCM has instructions for towing jeeps with automatic transmissions but I don't find any instructions for manual transmissions. I'v towed my 75 model (manual CJ) for a distance of 250 miles on at least dozen trips with both TC and tranny in neutral but may reconsider how I do this in the future.

 

The owners manual and TSM for 1973 are exactly the same as what you have scanned into your document. if yo uwant, i will scan and send it.

 

Thanks steve1973. No need to scan it. I will just make note in the document that it applies to both 1973 and 1974. Thanks!!

 

This is out of my '76 FSM for a D20 Transfer Case, Section 8-1...

"TOWING

Manual Transmission

Ignition Key Available: Shift transmission and transfer case into Neutral. Vehicle can now be towed with all four wheels on the ground or with front or rear wheels raised. If vehicle is equipped with selective drive hubs, set them in the FREE position.

Ignition Key Not Available and Vehicle is Unlocked: Shift transmission and transfer case into Neutral and tow vehicle with front wheels raised.

Ignition Key Not Available and Vehicle is Locked: Place dolly under rear wheels and tow vehicle with front end raised; or, disconnect rear propeller shaft at rear axle yoke (be sure to index mark propeller shaft and koke for proper alignment at assembly), secure shaft to underside of vehicle, and tow with front end raised."

 

My 1956 publication date Army and Air Force M38 tech manual says the vehicle may be towed with four wheels on the ground. Place the transmission in Neutral, transfer case front wheel drive lever in "OUT" and high low range gearshift lever to N. We towed said M38 from Monterey, CA to Canyonlands, Utah (970 miles one way) and back it came through ok, has since been sold, sniff.
Jon

 

3 year old thread revival?
The OP's Jeep has a Dana 20 tcase, different from your M38.

 

Thanks for the info. I have added it to my list at http://www.visualsc.com/jeep_flat_towing.pdf

 

I was not looking for info specific to my jeep, but rather trying to pull together the info for as many jeeps as possible so that there would be a common source for info.

 

This is what I did with my (mostly) stock CJ2A. Warn Ff kit with Internal hubs, premium locking hubs. I have towed it thousands of miles with no issues. I did the FF kit specifically because I wanted to tow it a lot.

 

Willys / Jeep Flat Towing (CJ2A, CJ3A, CJ3B, CJ5, CJ7 and newer), I went through the posts and guide.
1. I flat towed my Jeepster with hubs unlocked, TH400, Dana 20 both in Neutral for 8 miles.
Didn’t feel any issues but when I arrived we smelled burning brakes. Is it possible I had brake drag when towing?

2. I drove home about 6 miles and started feeling weeknees in the engine/ transmission, hooked up Jeepster and flat towed last few miles, could barely get it into the driveway Brakes locked up, thought it was drivers rear wheel, touched all wheels and they were hot to the touch. Odd thing is I have front disks as I have a Dana 30 swap and stock rear 10” drums

1.Can flat towing cause my brakes to rub?
2. Could flat towing cause all 4 wheel hubs to get hot and lock up brakes?
3. This morning in neutral, I could move the Jeepster back and forth, yesterday I could not,

Any help / insight would be appreciated

 

So in item 2 the brakes get hot if driven 6 miles.
I'ld suspect the issue is not specific to being flat towed. With the disk swap did you replace the residual pressure valve for the front.

 

The swap was done by Previous owner years ago. I thought about that but the rear also got hot and there is no residual pressure valve add unless the stock new replacement MC is bad, yet this morning I could move the Jeep back and forth in Neutral.

 

Flat Towing Guide | ECJ5 (earlycj5.com)

 

Seems like an issue that is not the result of flat towing. Long distance the rear shaft needs pulled on a dana20 since the output bearings won't get as much oil circulation but that would cause other issues. This could be a new thread but you say it is a replacement master cylinder...
How old and why was it replaced. What fluid is being used? Have you adjusted the rear shoes and are there signs of corrosion in or on the components?

My bet... the pedal doesn't have enough free play when released.

 

I’ll check the manual for free play, I replaced everything to the rear, and MC, soft lines to the front calipers, old and needed it. Adjusted rear wheels to very very slight drag with wheels off the ground, bleed everything 3 times. It does have stock master cylinder which could be affecting the front pads.

 

Thanks been there, I have Dana 20 with TH400 short distance towing nothing over 60 miles away