69 Dauntless Project - the 'Heep'

Any one have a part number / link to the fuel sending unit that IS NOT OMIX?

I see this crown version for $33...

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cwa-5357373k/overview/year/1972/make/jeep/model/cj5

Looks like MTS has 'em ...
MTS COMPANY, L.C. - Sending Units

may give 'em a call tomorrow.

 

Hey Dane, have you made your heater control spray templates yet? I've had to do this sort of thing a lot on guitar builds. The only way it has ever worked for me was to get laser cut stickers and stick them on as a spray template. The trick is misting the color on and not getting it too wet or it bleeds terribly around the edges. Also you have to pull the sticker at the right time, after paint sets up but before it dries. Here's a few photos for reference.

This is slightly different than the process you need, I am painting the color I want underneath the sticker and using the sticker to shield as I paint the rest, you will do the opposite I suppose but you get the idea.













Many things happen between here and this last shot, wet sanding and coats of clear etc. but here it is after clear coat and polish.



Here's what happened when I tried to do it with cardboard spray shields. It just never worked out.



I tried to clamp it down, I tried using spray mount to stick it down. None of it worked, it all bled under the edges.





Many many tests just never worked until I switched to sticker templates



Hopefully that was informative, ignore my ramblings if none of this applies. As you were

 

James, that's awesome. You build guitars?
my daughter and started for a bit and stopped around july (I broke my middle finger on my left hand). She didn't push it either.

I found craft stickers that someone suggested (I think Focker) that are very close in font / size. Shoot a little clear over them when fixed and it should be good to go. I haven't had the opportunity to put them on the bezels yet. I just realized I have 3 that I've rebuilt and one in a box needing a refresher (that bezel has 'patina' and all the markings, so it's getting cleared when it's refreshed).

I don't have a magic laser sticker printing / cutting machine, but I agree that unless you can prevent under-bleeed, it's a tough proposition and I've not cracked that capability yet.

 

I sent a pdf to a laser cutter guy to make me the stickers, I think it was an $11 endeavor .

 

This is my heater control panel I redid

 

^^^^^
Yeh, just do that.

 

Mounts are in, rattle-canned, and I'm trying to decide if I like what I've done... only a grinder-eraser away from it...

downside: tank is mounted from the top. This would make it mighty difficult to service after the tub is on.

I still have to fab up something for the skid for the tank.

 

i think thats why the factory rear brackets unbolt from the frame the tank sits on top of the bracket, if the bracket is welded then the tank wont come out.

 

I think today i will get out the weld eraser, refab the rear mounts, and rather than weld them, drill and tap the frame / hanger. This will also let me fab a way to mount the rear of the skid to the same spot. Been wrangling that in my sleep. The comments here with my gut check at the start helped.

 

Hey Dane I have a custom powder coated skid plate for one of those tanks you can have. It's really sturdy and looks nice. Let me know if you are interested and I'll take a few pics.

 

Re worked my thoughts on mounting brackets.

 

Used 3/16 x 3” flat stock.

Working now on a little heavy leverage to bed the bracket to gain a little clearance on the filler neck.

 

That's mo betta. I like the captured nuts so you can get this thing off if needed.

 

Here is my low tech way to create some clearance.

 

Great looking header from Novak / Sanderson. This is the driver side.

I have to call Monday. The collector for the passenger side would be in the motor mount if i could bolt it in.

Sigh.

 

Switch sides? Maybe.