My 67 CJ5 build

4 coats of high build primer on today. Let the block sanding begin.
Trying to decide if I should paint the whole tub at once or just the inside first then tape it off and spray the outside ??

 

a finish all in one continuous application (inside and out) will be more durable. Whenever you break an edge you run the risk of poor adhesion at the sharp tape edge. if you must do inside and then out tape under the top edge so the chance of peeling at the tape line is less.

 

just...WOW...im excited to see what is next! keep up the momentum!

 

I painted the inside of my tub, then the exterior. With the way the a tub is made, there is no problem breaking the paint. Around the top edge and door openings, you can break at edge where the metal turns down. The cowl, you have that lip where the dash bolts on. In the bed, at the tail gate, the metal frame that goes around the opening is a good breaking point. I painted the inside of the tub first, base and clear coated past the areas you will break the paint. I think I did not tape off any body when I did the inside. Tape and paint the exterior. I painted the inside of my tub on the rotisserie, set the tub on the frame and then painted the exterior. Worked good for me. When painting the exterior, I started at the tailgate where the metal is the smallest. Then went around the Jeep, was easier to blend the clear coat when finishing. I used a spot area clear coat, it flashed off faster, no runs. That's why I started at the tailgate, when I got around to the starting point the clear coat was tacky.

I ended up clear coating the exterior of my tub 3 times before I was happy. Still have not had it in the sun yet, to really see how good it is. Doing it this way, I used a lot of tape and paper, covering the inside of the tub.

If you do it all together and you do not have a good exhaust system. You will get over spray fog in the air settling down on the interior of the tub as you paint the exterior. I have found out when I do automotive painting, the smaller the areas I paint, the better they look. When I do large areas, something goes wrong.

 

oh wow

 

Didn't I just have this one color yesterday??

 

Still thinking about doing it all at once. Using single stage. I'm running out of time. Starting to get stupid busy again

 

Can understand that. Going to throw this at you. I do not know how much you have painted, but if things don't go right you will be out material and more time. The paint and finish is something you will see all the time in the future

 

Okay you talked me into it

 

Follow the instructions on the can for mixing and application you will do fine. Is it metallic paint? If so two light coats followed by one wet one the opposite way ie. if you went front to back on hood the last one should go left to right. I often fog the final little bit while the coat is still wet to even the metallic. If it’s solid three medium wet coats should do it.

 

I was planning on using a thinned JP202 primer as a sealer coat, wait the 10 minutes for it to flash then apply the color. Is that a good plan or should I wait til it dries then scuff and color ?

 

When I primed and painted, I always had problems. Do not know if the primer had not cured completely and when applying paint, the paint reactivated the prime. I would seal then scuff. I use to like to seal at night, get up early the next morning and paint.

 

If the primer is a 2k product, after it’s flashed good go right at a 2k finish there is no stronger bond than a chemical one with paint. If it’s an air dry primer than scuff it. Paint isn’t aonly a mechanical bond it’s molecular too as long as the base has properly flashed the finish won’t soften it. I always go from sanded ready to finish to sealer to finish in one shot, if you sand sealer you are defeating it’s purpose.

 

slight hi-jack - Epoxy primer is down (PPG Shopline)... looks decent, trying to decide if I go direct to paint or should go with a high-build (PPG 202) before I shoot the single-stage paint? (or am I all backward so far?)

After sanding out some imperfections, sags and 'gouges' in the metal I didn't prep right (and then repeating after light filler and sanding)... I'm seeing that another layer to help the final finish might be prudent?

 

Epoxy is the base, filler primer 2k for the smooth finish,sanded with 500 grit wet,2k sealer 2k finish. You can skip the filler if you want but the end result isn’t as good. 99 percent of the finish is in the prep. I can train a monkey to spray paint but their sanding and prep skills stink.

 

Got it. thanks!

 

Glad to help.

 

I don't know about everyone else who's done this the first time... and learned along the way...

but I've sanded, re-sanded, re-epoxied, re-applied filler / bondo, etc... on just about every part and panel on the tub - what seems like a LOT.

Between the front clip, misc parts and the tub, I have about a cup of primer left, and about two teaspoons of activator for that primer - not quite enough to finish it off completely but 'close' - may be if I mix it in an apple-sauce cup like the kids get.

I need to re-do the hood and double-check fenders and grill where it got scratched in storage. Not sure if I should just get another gallon of epoxy primer (seems like a life time supply now).

Closer inspection says I need to brush some primer under the top edge of the tub (the 1" thick edge down the sides). I know it was a bugger on the hood in the 'nose' on the underside to get coverage in there.

will see what the paint shop says today when I get there on shelf-life

What's the useful shelf life of these items generally? Seems like a while...

 

The paint part lasts a while the hardner will go south in a year or so epoxy differs by mfg. if all you have left is scratches and minor stuff I would get 2k primer filler and use that from here on out