Front Disc Brake Tutorial

I just wanted to say 45es post (#36) on page 2 was super helpful. I'm using the horsepowersales-llc kit on my '74 (dana 30), while I was able to get both large spindle nuts and their washers installed properly, I couldn't get the retaining clip back on the stub axle. The instructions that came with the brake kit, some locking hub manufacturers, and random forum posts I've been reading indicate that it's not a big deal to run without it. I didn't feel great about that regardless, I'm sure it's there for a reason and I've heard some say it helps the spindle seal stay seated (although I don't know enough to verify). After switching the inner hub bearing from LM501311 to LM501314 things fit like they should and I can get the c clip on!

I'm wondering if I should have the outside hub face milled a tiny bit though because the stub axle has almost no lateral play now, and my old drum setup had at least a little bit...

 

I really enjoy seeing someone taking the challenge and getting very good results.
You have done your research... you planned this out very well..!
I am sure there were areas that had you sitting there scratching your head during the process.
I went through this with my 1958 4whl. truck about a year ago.
Great build...great results.... AND it all looks safe.

George

 

Good Morning, just have completed the Front Disc from Drum 68CJ5. New Bronco 1976 MC. New 2lb to the front and 10lb to the rear. Drove a mile or so, death wobble on the front end as the brakes are not releasing enough on the front, jacked it up, I can hardly turn the 31's BFG on Aluminum. Using the original proportioning valve. Do I need to use this or can I bypass? Any opinions welcomed.
thanks

 

I didn't use any residual pressure valves on mine and it works fine, your results may vary. I wouldn't think that death wobble would occur because of brakes though. Thats usually a function of not enough caster, bad kingpin bearings (d25/27) or steering linkage issues.

 

OK, I will try to bypass and see if the brakes release more. I may have to check to make sure my linkage is not to tight, like the pedal might be engaged slightly.
Thanks for your reply.

 

I have installed disc brakes to my D27, but I also have the KW Dual Reservoir Master Cylinder upgrade.

Sadly (stupidly) I forgot to bring the old brake lines in before it snowed, so they are just outside the garage door buried under 6 feet of blue hard ice from where the roof sheds. So I don't have them to follow.

Does anyone out there have any pics, closeup and/or overhead, of front brake lines on a chassis with the body off, and dual reservoir Master Cylinder + Disc Brakes? In particular I'd like to see a couple of views of where the lines go out / forward from the MC to the Tee.

 

Question about hoses. The hoses that came in the kit are ~ 18" (OAL) long. These seem long, and risk rubbing the tires. Am I missing something about how to run them from the caliper to the frame bracket? Or do I need to source shorter hoses?

 

Thanks Brad!

 

As discussed in my other thread I had to swap out my calipers for the Horsepower ones. I got new copper crush washers and re-used the Banjo bolts, but there are leaks. So I'm going to get some new bolts and washers and start over. Does anyone know what the torque specs would be for these 7-16"-20 Banjo bolts?

EDIT: The vendor of the kit I have (Kaiser Willys) said 30 ft-lbs.

 

Hi,I know this is an old thread but hoping to get some help.....I have a 69 cj5 that i just installed dana 44 axles in from a wagoneer....so has front disc brakes...I did find by reading this thread and another one that I had to remove the residual valve from the rear port of my dualreservoir master cylinder....then I added an inline wilwood 2 lb residual valve...this goes to the front brakes....I bled the brakes and my rear drums wont release....any ideas what would cause this? I also added an adjustable proportioning valve in the line to the rear brakes....I have turned it all the way both directions and brakes will not release.....I have no idea what is wrong...anyone have any ideas?

 

Do you have 1" of free play in the pedal. Try bleeding the brakes and keep an eye for debris and good flow.

 

very weird, I checked today and everything is working normal,I had my son step on the brakes, they lock up when brake applied and are releasing now.....thanks

 

I'm having issues with the brakes.....I thought they were working ,but that is when i had the jeep on jackstands, I have it driveable now and went to take it out today, the first time in 5 months....the brakes didnt work, I had to pump them several times to get them to grab....I removed the built in residual valve in the rear port and added a wilwood 2 lb residual inline valve...this line now feeds the front disc brakes....was I supposed to do something with the front port? figured it already has a 10 lb residual valve built in? do I need to just add a 10 lb wilwood residual valve inline ? please help.....my jeep is a 69 cj5

 

They are really hard to get the air out of the lines. Try this:
Take the calipers off. Place a block of wood between the pads that is the same width as your rotor. Raise the calipers as high as possible and bleed again. This worked great for me