Coolant..everywhere

We don't need no steenkin' FSM! but no, I don't have one. its always been on my list of things to get...right after I buy the master cylinder, or the clutch parts, or the radiator, or the carb rebuild kit, or the engine overhaul kit etc...

 

Yeah, you do. It will save wasted time and money, many times over.

 

If you haven't yet, you really do need to get a new radiator cap in he 3-7 psi range.

Your engine should only build enough pressure to bypass the cap (or blow a seal in a water pump) when the water temp is super hot. BUT... if there is another issue, like a bad head gasket or something else that would allow extra pressure to build in your system, the cap is a safety valve to relieve pressure to prevent bad things from happening (like blowing a seal in a water pump).

Without a lower pressure cap first, you could just be chasing your tail with new water pumps when there is possibly a bigger issue at hand.

Or, maybe there is no issue aside from the cap, and the seal in the water pump is only designed to withstand, say, 8psi when your cap would have started to realease pressure at 7.

 

Tomorrow i buy a 7lb radiator cap...and head gasket...

 

Haha
I'm just speculating... and giving you a hard time.
It's hard to diagnose from here, but it looks like steam, and water can only get in your combustion chamber through the head gasket, or something catastrophic like a cracked head or cylinder.

 

Cast iron heads dont ceack, right? can a shop test this before i change the head gasket again?

 

Crack in the block deck between #2 and #3, seen it often.
Looks fine, no leaks,then warms up, steam and noise from either combustion going into the water jackets, or water boiling off in the chamber.
How's your oil level/color look?

Hope I'm wrong for your sake though.

 

How long did you have it running? I've seen coolant and condensation build up in the exhaust do that and depending how much makes it to the muffler can take a little bit to burn/steam off.

 

Whoa.. just saw the picture you posted under the "slow to warm up" thread.

That cloud of white vapor is a serious coolant leak into a cylinder(s). If you are lucky, it's just the head gasket. How did you torque it...without an FSM?

SIDSCJ also has a valid observation, too. The blocks can crack as he described. Sometimes its repairable.

 

Do a leak down test. Take out all your spark plugs set your engine to TDC on each cylinder you test. Take your radiator cap off and throw it away while you're at it since you need it off anyways. Look for bubbles in the radiator.

 

Another thing, are you sure you got the right head gasket? The F-head and L-head gaskets look very close but are just enough different to cause the problem you're seeing. Went through this back around 1987ish when mine still had the F-head.

 

I always buy the Fhead kit. I'm sure of that.

I tourqed it according to the internet specs. I don't recall the poundage...

If I recall...I have to take the carb off to get at a hidden bolt in order to take the head off to change the head gasket? anybody know if I am remembering this correctly?

 

Mmmm
I have a copy of the '53 -'71 CJ and DJ Service Manual in PDF form. 376 pages.
With that you could just read it off your computer screen, or print off the pages you need right now for hard copy on your work bench.

 

I also have a copy in each of pdf and epub of the M38A1 EngineClutch portion of the manual the military used for working on the M38A1 JEEPs.

Very detailed. You would be able to build an engine from scratch with one of these.

 

Id take a digital copy. havent searched, but im sure they are out there

 

Coolant was pouring out my exhaust when i drove it into the shed. but look what i found. omix ada, but any port in a storm, ya know?

 

OR, if you didn't find it, that may be why your head broke in half...