Another Dauntless Clutch Conundrum

Hey stuff happens.............keep in mind that your clutch linkage system , be it mechanical, hydraulic , or cable each has and effective mechanical travel length...........and each one of these systems lengths can be different based on hydraulic bore sizes, ratios at any given point & wear Etc;...............point is if you had too much "Free Play" statically that would also effect the total travel length at the other end of the spectrum which is the amount of travel needed to properly push the throw out bearing against the pressure plate and fully release the clutch.............that number needed at the clutch fingers?.........on average about .400"-.625" on a well maintained system..........and don't think just cause you can see the linkage outside of the clutch can moving the throw out fork a greater amount gets you out of the woods , cause the ratio at the clutch fork arm and ball inside the can changes ratios to 2:1 meaning whatever it moves outside is only moving 1/2 that amount inside....and adjustable throw out bearing collar as mentioned above can be helpful to take up that extra little bit of slack..............

 

I'll admit, I've been thinking, "I've removed enough stuff, and I shouldn't ask for more trouble." But I'm sure your right.

 

Ah, I see. Yes, mine is different, all right. I'll post a similar photo when is all is cleaned up.

 

So, while we're talking about that return spring.....is it still needed with a hydraulic clutch (slave cylinder on the clutch fork)? Never really dawned me to ask until now. I assume not but I'm wrong A LOT.

 

From the hyd clutch systems I have seen, yes you would need a return spring.

 

Yes the return spring is needed in all systems. In other words there is no mechanical force to retract the throwout bearing, fork and linkage slack from that point in the system. A return spring is also needed at the pedal for the same reasons.

 

Another question for the wise men:

My clutch disc itself looks good to me. And I have every reason to believe it very few miles on it.

How thick should it be?

Mine is .3 inches thick, give or take a .01. On one hand, it's nuts to pull all this stuff and not replace the disc. On the other hand, it's nuts to replace a disc that isn't worn... And I know this one fits!

 

Looks is one thing.............If you fried the throw out bearing more than likely the clutch slipped for the period of the time that it took to eat the bearing........and once they slip..........they normally will get a glaze on the surface of the friction material on both sides........................also a similar glaze may also get on both the steel flywheel and pressure plate..........using a DA type sander will normally clean up the metal surfaces...............cleaning / cutting the disc is hard unless you have the proper equipment to hold it and cut it flat..

 

Yeah... I based my question on the fact that the whole clutch system, inside the bellhousing, at least) was all replaced very few miles (though many years) ago. But I'm sure you are correct. My dad, by the way, was also frugal. Lots of baling wire -- and I mean actual wire from hay bales.

 

If I recall correctly the factory thickness for driven disk is specified at.305".
But I may be recalling earlier disk specs...
I can double check if it matters.....
I have been frugal myself and yes its certainly a gamble unless your certain that the disk has very low hours..

 

I am getting the last parts I need for my T18 install together and its about time to order my clutch. I always buy LUK brand clutches and really do enjoy their performance and price. Did you just buy the regular replacement LUK clutch for your model or did you find something else? How is the pedal feel with the centerforce?

 

Here's a recent post on the 3B B. B. that may interest you concerning Dauntless T18 clutches....
http://s4.zetaboards.com/CJ3B_Bulletin_Board/topic/30253667/1/

 

I got a re-manufactured pressure plate that oldtime found on eBay and a bearing that he had. I am tempted to compare with something like the LUK -- It's easy to find, and probably easier to work. I just want to make sure all parts are the same depth, thickness, etc. I don't want to mess with the linkage geometry and so on. Adjustments are one thing. I don't want to suddenly need a different fork/pivot ball combination, for example. I hope that made sense. Again, a lot of this goes back to the fact that I don't have a "model," to go by, I have a hodge-hodge my dad and his friends put together in the early '70s. I'm a ways from re-assembling, in part because I'm trying to clean and paint everything, in part because I'm learning as I go, so I'm going slowly.

 

No need to double-check. Thanks. My brother's mechanic (my brother is since deceased) says he replaced the clutch about six years ago, along with some other work. But my brother lost interest in the project (long story), and the Jeep sat parked, indoors, thank goodness, until I got it in December 2016. So I do think my clutch plate has very low miles.

 

What you got from me and from eBay should be virtual identical replacement parts to what you had to start with. (standard factory components)
Like Warlock said .. make sure your flywheel looks good, and I expect that you'll be in good shape.

 

Exactly! The best reason for me switching to a diaphragm setup is that I will eventually hand this Jeep off to my daughter.

 

How come you elected to use the 304 clutch with your 225?