Replacing Rear Seal Ugh

I did what Donny said, plus I took the timing cover off, so not to hurt the timing seal, slipped the seal right in, tightened up the mains, put it all back together and everything is fine, no more spotting under the bell housing.

 

When you say you offset them about 3/8 inch....can u explain that?

 

You dont want the seam to line up with the bearing cap so I pushed it up 3/8 on 1 side and down the same on the other.

 

With the seal splitting on the same seam as the main saddle, you invite leaks through the then coninuous seam. By offsetting the seal, you have a good chance of making the rear main oil tight.
-Donny

 

Thanks, makes sense

 

Pictures worth a thousand words!

 

Got the rear bearing cap off with lots of wiggling. Had the old rope seal. Problem is it sheared off flush with the upper half of the bearing (yoke?) and I can’t get the top half to budge. Cotton fibers coming out one by one but no luck getting it to budge as a whole piece. I think I’m going to have to loosen the crank? Ideas?

 

Grab it with needle nose pliers while someone else bars the engine over turning it in the same direction your pulling.

 

I actually bought this on eBay and it was worth every penny. I know I probably won’t use it again for some time but it’s one of those things that really helped on removal especially.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/362589472925

 

Spray some wd-40 up there, grab it if u can and turn the crank. Mine came right out. If you can't grab it try pushing with a stiff plastic something

 

how long should the replacement dowels hang down form the bottom? I have them inserted as far as they will go and they are hanging down about 3/8 inch. I know they will get squished up when I put the oil pan back on but 3/8 seems a bit much? thanks, bh

 

I squirted some Permatex up in each hole and inserted the dowel’s as far as they would go. I then cut mine off (as evenly/straight as possible) with about 1/4” of protrusion, that way they mushroomed out with the torquing of the pan to seal the holes. You’re close at 3/8” so I don’t know if I’d worry about it.

 

ok....i'll snip them off tomorrow at 1/4 inch and go from there.

 

Don't cut them off.

 

Well I've replaced the seal once, still leaked. Took it to a shop that has done good work for me before and they replaced it, not once but 2x and there is still a leak streaming from the seam where engine meets transmission. I noticed the rear crankshaft bearing was a little worn or pitted when I had it off but not bad. Have I just had a series of bad seals (one from walks, one from Kaiser Willis one from the eBay link above ) or what? What else do I look for or what else could be leaking. It's not just a few drops...
Thanks

 

Maybe not the rear main then? Are there plugged oil passages on back of your block? Maybe leaking from something other than a rear main. Possibly rear valve cover?

 

There are dyes one can add to engine oil that will glow under black light. May dimly glow under some fluorescent lights, too. If you are gonna pull the engine for a look-see then maybe run with some dye before pulling. Should be easy to trace the trail of dye. And may be able to spin oil pump with a drill with engine pulled for live-action leaking