Limited Slip Recommendations?

PowerTrax 2115 Lock Right Locker for 66-71 Jeep Vehicles with 10 Spline Dana 27 Open Differential Axles

 

Great information here thanks a lot everyone! I will post back once I figure something out and get it in there. Although it may be a few months. Had not considered the selectable lockers before and to be honest I didn't know anything about them. Also had not considered a used LSD unit. This is a low mileage-per-year vehicle so a used kit might be just fine.

 

There are four main brands of selectable locker. Not all of them are available for all axles, and they have a variety of different ways to actuate them. They are all pretty close price wise once you add in the actuation systems. There are a few other lesser know selectable as well (such as TJM from Australia), but most are similar to these.

ARB Air Lockers - Most well known and preferred by most of the hard core race teams. The locker itself is incredibly strong. It uses a pneumatic actuation system requiring an onboard compressor and a solenoid to trigger the locker. The air system is where most people have issues and is the biggest complaint. Many of them are caused by improper installation (usually around the air fittings), and having an experienced tech is very helpful. Generally considered the most expensive.

Yukon Zip lockers - essentially a copy of the original ARB design. Has some of the same air system problems as the ARB without the ARBs design evolution.

Eaton E-Lockers - Early designs used 2 locking pinions, the current design uses 4 and is pretty close to the ARB for strength. Uses an electric-magnetic actuation system. Hookup is a simple wired switch with optional indicator circuits. This type of locker (though not necessarily the brand) is now the standard for OEM installations and is rapidly growing in popularity due to its ease of installation.

Ox Locker - These use a mechanical actuator that can be controlled by a cable run into the cab. They have a unique design in that the actuation system is part of their proprietary differential cover. Electrical and pneumatic actuation systems are also available that essentially operate the cable for you.

I have no problem recommending any of these.

Mike

 

I have a TrueTrac in the rear of an ‘04 Silverado 1500. Works flawless, unnoticed,locks up nicely when needed. I have Lock-Ritesf&R in my ‘59-5. Work well but can be a bit unpredictable in ice. I have driven vehicles with most limited slips and lockers in my career. Selectables are the best of both worlds but most expensive. for combination use I really like the Tru trac. Many people don’t realize but the Tru-Trac is directional. That means it is configured one way for a front application and different for a rear application as the gears are directional. If it doesn’t work then A possibility it was configured for the other end of the vehicle. Power lock is nice but getting harder to find and parts getting harder to get. Plus not as seamless as other options. I’ve built literally at least a hundred in different setups and configurations from 25 to 70’s so have some experience. Tons of options out there except for the 25 and 27. For those you are limited to a Powerlock, Lock-Rite, or Aussie Locker (almost the same as a Lock-Rite).

 

As far as Yukon Zip Lockers go, unless they recently redesigned them they use a plastic “cage” to engage the clutch mechanism which is prone to failure. I’ve had to (in the past) had to repair/rebuild a couple of these units. Not impressed. The engagement units were broken in every one of them.

 

A fifth option that I forgot about is the Auburn Select-A-Loc. These are essentially a limited slip that can automatically tighten up the clutches to be a locker. They sound great in concept but the market response has been lukewarm at best. The TJ Rubicon's rear locker used a similar system from the factory, but they were activated by a low pressure air system instead of Auburn's electric system.

Mike

 

How about lunchbox lockers? Are they worth it? My rear axle and everything in it are brand new, so my carrier is in perfect condition. It might make sense to use a lunchbox setup unless they are somehow less quality and reliable.

 

Henri, check out this link:


The CJ2a here is Stan’s “Grampa’s Jeep” from the CJ2a boards. He has lockrights front and rear, a T90c and teralow Tcase, both with a bit lower gears, but that’s it. You can see for yourself how well they do. TONS of folks with normal rigs run lockrights with nary a problem for many years.

Also, they seem to hold up for at least a few seasons to large tires and big horsepower depending on the driver.

 

I've watched lots of Stans videos. He and his jeep should be the poster child for Lock Right. If that isn't proof of their dependability then nothing is. Big tires, horsepower, and/or big torque may change the outcome.

 

I installed a Spartan locker in my '76 AMC20's rear diff about five years ago (the jeep in my avatar).



I haven't noticed any adverse effects on the road, other than an occasional sound. Off road, though, it feels like it makes such a difference that I rarely put it in 4wd. The jeep spends the majority of its miles climbing over the trails of N. Idaho's Silver Valley. I like the fact it's always working and don't have to stop and shift anything, turn anything, or flip anything to engage it when I encounter an obstacle or muddy patch.

 

I can attest to Lock Right lockers holding up really well for what they were. For a full case locker I have had great success with Detroit Locker in a range of things from IH Scouts to an R190 International dump truck behind a Red Diamond 406 (called a No Spin in the large applications) and 2 different log skidders, one with about 7500 hrs, and the other in excess of 10,000 hrs on the hour meter! I really like the ox locker, but have seen the cable get damaged. The ARB really seems 1st class but air leaks, as others have said, seem to be the issue. The Tru Trac seems to have given good service to some friends of mine and lousy service for others. No real breakage but seems to be lots of variation to how effective they are. I've only installed 2, and I wasn't keen on the idea of no parts sold separately. The guy who wanted them provided them for me to install. I hoped they would be better, as I really would like one in a front application.

 

In my experience air leaks in ARB’s is from improper installation. I’ve installed a bunch with zero issues. Fixed probably half a dozen other people installed improperly causing air leaks. No problems since. You can’t just throw them in. Attention to detail and cleanliness is paramount which most people don’t observe.
I test them extensively with shop air pressure before they leave my shop which is about 50 psi higher than normal running pressure. No issues if installed correctly.

 

To be clear , I have never installed an ARB but I have a friend who really likes them, has a pair in a Toyota FJ40 and I have met a few people on trails with them. The only complaint was about air leaks. I imagine it is exactly as you said, proper clean installation and attention to detail.

 

Well I was at a local axle shop letting them take a look at my transmission today and they had a number of different Yukon lockers on the shelf. I told them I wasn't really interested in a Yukon given the reviews on this site and others, and on our way out the door they said hey look at that, a dana limited slip from an old jeep. It's an unused unit they've had on the shelf for years and they gave it to me for a good price. Hoping to have it installed tomorrow!

 

nice! What kind of LSD? Trackloc, or Powrlock, or?

 

Trac Lock. Hope that's a good choice

 

Well...their nickname is “trashlock”.

YMMV

some info here:
TrackLok vs. Power Lock

 

I'm another happy Powr-Lok user. I installed it in the rear of my 3B in 1975. I pulled it twice to try Detroit Lockers (old and "new" versions) but it went right back in. It has had one set of new clutches in that period and all service was behind one of several sbc's. The trails around here are basically rock with occasional mud holes. The Powr Lok works fine IMO. And compared to the Detroit's, the road manners are absolutely exquisite. The only place you need to be careful is on packed snow and ice. The B now has an ARB up front but the Powr Lok is staying in the rear.

 

I have a dana 44 axle with a powr lok waiting to go into my jeep soon. Not knowing the history of it, is there an easy way to tell if it needs clutches without pulling it all apart?