Constant Ticking Sound

Okay guys, I have a 66 CJ6 with Dauntless V6. There is a constant ticking coming from transmission area. It sounds like the ‘price is right wheel’ clicking. For the life of me I can’t pin point it.
-Happens when in idle, 1st, 2nd, 3rd
-Faster in 2nd, slower in 3rd
-increases when accelerating
-constant when coasting
-goes away when coasting and engine is off
-goes away when clutch is depressed
-sounds like coming from transmission area

Any ideas?
I’ve recently replaced wiring, tie rods, and suspension. But I don’t think those have much to do with it.
Thanks

 

Sometimes an exhaust leak will tick, especially at the manifold. Of course it directly co-relates to engine rpm, and louder under load.

 

Something with the throwout baring maybe?

 

This tick is an exhaust leak on a 4cyl

 

That exhaust leak is pretty close. I’ll go through and check

 

Get a yard of small diameter tubing. Put one end in your ear, then search with the other end.

 

I’m not convinced it’s an exhaust leak. If I depress the clutch even a half an inch, the sound goes away.

here is a quick 20s video I made of the sound

 

It sounds like the throwout bearing to me. It seemed to make a sandy bearing noise when the clutch was in and change to ticking then its out. Or is that sandy noise there all the time and its just the video masking it?

 

Throwout noise would indeed be exquisitely sensitive to clutch movement.

But a normally adjusted throwout bearing should not be rotating at all unless the clutch pedal is depressed.

OTH, if there was no free-play in the linkage, a constantly spinning throwout might well go bad quickly.

 

Clutch disc on backwards comes to mind.

 

Thanks for the replies here. The throwout bearing seems to be the likely culprit. I have decided to remove the transmission and replace all that I can (Throwout bearing, clutch kit, rear main seal, etc) . Now just need to wait for the parts to come in via Rockauto and Kaisers.
I’ll post the results as soon as I can

 

Use a pilot bushing rather than a roller bearing they last alot longer and dont screw up your input shaft. standard sb chevy part. Also I believe there was a recent conversation about using a different throwout arm for easier clutching. Anyone remember?

 

I had similar with a clutch plate that had a broken spring

 

To close this out, the problem is fixed! It ended up being a couple of problems. The throwout bearing was shot, and one side of the the clutch form retainer clip was missing.
I removed the transmission (which I hope to never have to do again) and replaced the broken parts and a bunch of other smaller preventative maintenance stuff. I cleaned the crap out of it for probably the first time ever. I must have removed 20lbs of dirt and grime. Took the opportunity to replace the master cylinder since that had a leak and reinforced the chassis to the frame.

a couple interesting things came out of it. My transmission cover is stamped with T90, but the base is stamped with T89AA.

I also found out the chassis doesn’t quite fit right over the bell housing/engine connection. I needed to cut part of the firewall in order to even get to one of the bolts connecting the bell housing to engine. Additionally, I have a Ramsey winch on the PTO and the PTO lever factory cutout was very obviously recut(poorly). It’s as if the whole engine/transmission needs to be moved an inch or so to the drivers side.

I learned a whole bunch and hope to never have to do it again.

After putting everything back together, she purrs like a kitten. We took it through los Padres national park and up the PCH. Awesome experience.


now time to fix a transmission fluid leak ‍♂️

 

Note: The 225V6 engine/trans assy is designed to be off-set to the drivers side (1 to 1-1/2") not sure exactly. This is accomplished by using the proper left and right motor mounts. If the mounts are installed incorrectly (right on left side) this will also cause the engine to be tilted sideways instead of level across.

 

What kind of clutch fork did you get to replace the broken one? I replaced mine not long ago with Omix or Crown junk and it’s broken again. Waiting for a LUK clutch fork to show up now.

 

I got the one that Kaiser Willys sells. I think it’s the omix. I actually had to buy two, because the first one broke before I even got it installed. Hopefully it lasts... I’d love to never drop the transmission again

 

It won't last, I've had two fail on me. I just ordered the LUK version, hopefully here today. Kyle has had good luck with his LUK one so I thought I'd give it a try. The part number is in this thread.

Need A Clutch Fork For My 67 Cj5

 

I’ve replaced all the seals and gaskets on my transfer case but am still getting puddles of transmission fluid on the ground after a day or two of sitting. I’m using Redline MT-90 transmission fluid. Is it possible that this is too thin? Would 140wt provide the same protection and help stop/slow leaks?