Head Studs

Greetings, I've searched the forum and not had much luck with my question, I would like to run studs instead of bolts on my f134, my guess is they need to be longer than the bolts, and can't really find a vintage type supplier, I'm thinking that I may be able to just go to an auto parts store and find some, Thoughts?

 

The ones I'm finding are pretty spendy, If anyone is running them I would sure appreciate knowing the proper length to buy

 

Why do you want to do this? Also I don't think you will have clearance for studs under the rocker shaft.

 

The advantages of using studs vs bolts are numerous, my problem is getting the head bolts to seal properly, I'm thinking that using studs might help, if the bolt head and stud nut are similar in height then I don't see much of a difference in rocker shaft clearance, but that is why I am asking if anyone has done it and what would be the proper length of stud to use to avoid clearance issues

 

Well, kinda a long story, I'm trying to save an engine with a cracked block, I have a rebuilt engine of unknown quality and would like to try and save the currently installed one, so really not out much to try and hillbilly this one back together. I'm thinking studs might help the situation, but not sure

 

Yikes...no offence to Hillbillys, I are one

 

Head studs for a L-134 might work. I always replace them when I build an engine so I could send you some old ones to try out.

The reason you aren't finding them from the parts suppliers is they didn't use studs on the F-134, but they did on L-134 engines. New studs for an L-134 are easy to find, but if you want old ones just to try I am sure I have some.

 

Thanks Oldpappy, I have a bunch of studs for the l134, to short for sure. I will probably use a combination of studs and bolts, bolts on the inside under the rocker and studs on the outside, I have a crack in the bolt hole between number 2 and number 3 cylinders, both sides of the bolt hole are cracked into the water jacket, it's the hole nearest the exhaust side. I'm hating to junk this block, but might have to happen.

 

You might call ARP. If you have all the lengths, they can probably put together a set for you. They aren't cheap and way overkill for 7.5:1 CR. I don't think studs will improve the cracked block situation much as they should be torqued to the same spec as the head bolts but maybe worth a try. Cracks in that location are not uncommon. ARP thread sealer is also a very good item. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MI-qOZ78Gc9wIVgdCWCh39JATPEAQYASABEgIh7_D_BwE

 

Works for me.

 

my problem is the bolt breaks loose at 20 ft/lbs, I'm thinking that using a stud there I can jb weld the sucker in there, also if the threads were a little longer I can get into some better threads in the block, I warned you this is a hillbilly setup!

 

Ayuh,.... Put a heli-coil in that hole,..... it might hold, but you really need a different block,....

 

would that hold with both sides of the bolt hole split to the water jacket? didn't think that would be an option

 

Like I said earlier, I have a rebuilt engine sitting in the shop of unknown quality ready to go in, I was just hoping I could Hillbilly this one, kinda just to see if I could save the old block, at least I know this ones issues.

 

Thanks Glenn, the head is off, after it was off I did make a sleeve and tried to torque the bolt with deeper engagement in the bolt hole, it did seem to help, although I used a piece of copper tubing and it started to crush the tubing so I need to make a better sleeve or just use a shorter bolt and some washers and see how much torque I can apply

 

Pretty sure studs are not going to save the head gasket with a crack in the block.
Squeeze it all you want, but as soon as it warms up you'll be pushing coolant into the cylinder.
BTDT.

 

Well at this point the old saying "what have I got to lose" applies