Clutch Fork And Throwout Bearing Fit

1970 cj5; v6; T14a; Dana 18

how snug of a fit is the Throwout bearing supposed to be on the clutch fork?

I have a new clutch fork from Walcks and a new LUK clutch kit with bearing.

the Throwout bearing is very loose on the clutch fork. How loose is it supposed to be? I feel like it could slip off the fork.

here’s a pic of the clutch fork (notice the bracket that attaches to the pivot ball is a bit sideways:



here’s a pic of the new bearing alongside my old one (new one on left):



Thanks again for your help.

 

The pivot stud will keep it from falling off the throwout bearing. You could probably better align that clip by striking it beside the rivet similar to where it has been stuck on the other side. Just lay it on a piece of pipe and give it a whack with a drift punch and hammer, or whatever is handy, but it would probably work fine the way it is.

 

Be carefull I tried get mine to fit over outside flandge. Goes between both flanges and yea kinda loose

 

my advice is install bell housing with throw out bearing and fork
onto transmission , install as a unit

 

The after market clutch fork that I purchased was like that with the tabs out of alignment. Pain in the neck to get it to fit properly. A poor excuse for a replacement.

 

Just curious, does your 70 have the cable or mechanical linkage?

 

It has the cable linkage.

After measuring the new clutch with the bearing stacked on top compared with the old clutch and bearing stacked on top, there is a 3/16 inch difference. I’m assuming I can make up for that in the cable adjustment.

 

I’ve got a 71 with cable, and wasn’t able to get the Luk kit to work, I think mine was a bit larger difference than your 3/16 so you should be fine. I had to get a clutch plate that was taller thane the previous clutch as well as a longer TO Bearing. Not sure why, but I think the bellhousing is a bit longer as it doesn’t use the adapter.

everything works, but the pedal is very stiff. I’m looking for a taller pivot stud to see if that helps with the leverage.

I’ll let you know how it goes. Good luck with your installation,

 

Thanks. I’ll report back as well.

my bell housing has the adapter to the transmission.

the auto parts place i use ordered it without charge and allowed me to bring in my old one to compare. I didn’t know if the 3 16 inch difference would be an issue so they told me to try it out and if it didn’t work I could return it. Of course that would cause me to have to pull the tranny again. But at least I know how to do that now.

 

I carefully put the right size socket under those two tines and Bent them down a little bit so that they had more holding power on the pivot ball.

 

I used this ball stud to get the correct leverage on my 70 Jeepster/Commando with the 225 Dauntless & T-14 transmission.




This is suppose to be the correct angle for best leverage.



Here is the angle with the stock ball stud.



Here it is with the longer ball stud.



It definitely helped with the leverage but the final fix was to go hydraulic, I can push the clutch in with my hand.

 

I ordered one of the longer ball studs, but mine threads in from inside the bell housing and if I remember correctly it was a 7/16 thread.

your angle pictures help me a lot. My current angle has the fork almost 90 degrees instead of angled toward the front like yours does. Definitely need to find a longer ball stud.

long term, would love to go hydraulic! I like your setup, reverse of what I would have thought.

 

Just another bit of advice for your install. lube the throwout bearing before insalling. I've had to replace 2 because of the bearings wearing out. I took the last worn one apart, and found that the grease was hardened. As if it had sat on a shelf for an extended time and "set". I greased the new one as you would a wheel bearing, until it squeezed out. Rotating it to work it in. Time will tell, but I'm very confident. As for the misalignment on the fork...I've had hat issue with the last 2 also. Definitely bad manufacturing, But it'a all I can find. I "adjusted" it the best I could without breaking one of the ears.

 

I would recommend assembling transmission, bellhousing, arm and bearing on the bench and check arm travel. I ran into some new replacement ones that the fork where it fits in the bearing groove was too wide and limited bearing travel. It was binding in the groove. 5 minutes with a grinder fixed the issue that had I not caught it would have cost hours of work and a lot of frustration.

 

I really like your hyd clutch arrangement. I can see Wilwood on it. Have you got any part #'s?

 

The slave is Wilwood 260-1333.
https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=Wilwood 260-1333


The master is Wilwood 260-1304
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MI7rH73a3b-AIV9g-tBh2rrQbHEAQYAiABEgIacvD_BwE

I'm not sure on the braided flexhose, it was a house brand part.

It is important that the slave pulls as straight as possible and the anchor point should be able to flex. I made a simple bracket and used a heim joint at the anchor end

 

Hey thanks a bunch OzFin

 

Thanks for everyone’s advice and input.

I’ve adjusted the tangs of the fork using a combo of @Oldpappy and @truckee4x4’s suggestion. I think I’ve got it sitting pretty well.

this is the first one I’ve done but planning on doing a test fit tomorrow.

i did try the TO bearing on the shaft and as @hooliganrick mentioned above the grease was hardened. Thanks for mentioning that!

also doing the test fit on the bench like @nickmil and @Twin2 suggested.

thanks again.

 

I was able to extend the ball stud by making a spacer .there is enough threads to get maybe a 1/4". it's not perfect ,but a lot better .To my knowledge no one makes a longer or adjustable stud for that 1971 bellhousing.