Stainless Bolt Kit?

No I've looked at those kits but I have been replacing onesy twosy with mine as I've been making changes. I know that I paid more that the kit be=ut at this point I think I've already done more than half the stuff it covers so I'm not going to pull the trigger on one of these.

Brian

 

What grade is the stainless?? Been using 304, the other is 450? the lower number is better.

 

Mike thats probably well worth the price, I would not use SS bolts on major components like bumpers, winches and such but for everything else it should be fine.

When it comes to stainless the lower number means it is less likely to rust but stainless is broke up into series, 200,300,400 series, 400 is the strongest but it is a tool steel with good strength and can be hardened in a heat treat oven , it is also slightly magnetic, 200 and 300 can only be hardened through inducing stress (work hardening) they are non magnetic completely. Most stainless bolts are a 300 series (303 or 304) do to the fact they are easier to machine and or forge and roll form the threads.
If you want a stainless package for your bolts by all means take a shot at it, I think you will be fine.

I checked they make theres out of 304 stainless which is a good grade for bolts.

 

Boyink: That's not really a bad price for the kit. Much cheaper than buying them as you need them. If you have leftovers, you'll find a use for them.

Mcruff: In my Loco Hobby, we use a lot of 416 SS. It's magnetic and will rust where you have it tig welded--but not bad. It has superior strength for high stress applications (couplers and valve gear) and good wear characteristics. And, it investment casts beautifully.

My boiler on my Loco was tig welded out of 321 SS. Supposedly a No-No but several people in the know have done it and had NO problems. It's funny, all the guys that had SS boilers were airospace machinests. Mine was 21 years old--still going strong.

 

I used this kit several years ago on my 70'. Each bolt group was bagged and labeled. I thought it was awsome - cut my "bolt box scrounging" in half.

 

did you notice that the 4wd page says it's out of stock?

 

That is what I used. It worked out well, the only issue is the package covers a lot of years so I had extra of some sizes and had to buy a few others. Overall, I would buy it again,

 

Totally Stainless also has an interesting article on their website regarding high strength bolts. See upper right corner of their home page.

 

If you want the best of both worlds, try Hastelloy or Inconnel Alloys (e.g. nickel-chrommium alloys).

Not cheap but very tough and can last for years , in battery acid (C276 Hastelloy)!!! These have also been used in thermal oxidizers at 1500 F in corrosive enviroments!

I've had some stuff made up out of this for work , very expensive, ca. $4.00 /1 , 3/8 X 1in. coarse tread. I'd use it for exhaust manifold studs/bolts or any application where corrosion/strenght is an issuse and you only "want to fix it once" (e.g. cost vs labor). If you can afford it these bolts they will outlast your Willys/Kaiser/Jeep

For regular stuff normal stainless is fine (304/316) and for normal/medium stress applications stainless fasteners are an upgrade that you will appreciate "the next time it comes apart".

 

Never used Hastealloy, but I can tell you that Inconel is god awful tough, its what they make the blast shoes out of for the space shuttle, these things are sitting right in the middle of that fire ball at launch time.