Ways to Straighten Steering Wheel

I recently replaced a grant steering wheel with an aftermarket replica of the original wheel for a 74 and thought I had aligned everything correctly when I put the new wheel on. Unfortunately, I'm about 30 degrees off of where I want to be. I've tried pulling the new wheel off so I can move it over a few splines, but it's on there tight (I torqued the steering column nut to specs which set the new wheel on there pretty well). I've tried adjusting the drag link, but the 39 year old threads are too rusted and nothing will budge. What are my options at this point? Can I dismantle the drag link at the ends and try to break loose the threads by turning on the ends? Should I just buy a new drag link and adjust it from there? Can I dismantle the steering linkage and adjust it that way? Can I adjust the pitman arm somehow? Or should I just leave it alone? I have very little experience with any of this so your advice would be greatly appreciated. Btw, this is purely aesthetic as everything else steering-wise is just fine.

 

iirc you can separate the intermediate shaft from the column at the firewall and turn the wheel where you need it and then reassemble.

 

I think, if everything else is good, I'd just leave it alone.
IMO with the factory 3 spoke wheel it doesnt really matter which way it's pointed.

 

I would think that the easiest solution would be to put a gear puller on the steering wheel pop it off and rotate it around. If you dont have a puller you can usually rent them for relatively little from your local parts store. Napa has always been great to me...

 

You would be best served by replacing the drag link and tie rod just because they are relatively inexpensive and makes for a much more enjoyable driving experience.
If you don't want to go that route, you can disassemble at the firewall u-joint and turn to your liking.

 

Thanks for the suggestion. I seem to remember reading somewhere that gear pullers can break the plastic on the wheel, but maybe I'll give it a try.

 

Thanks to all for the suggestions. Not sure which one I'll try:

1) pull the wheel with a gear puller
2) replace the drag link
3) disassemble the steering linkage
4) leave it be

Think I'll sleep on it.

 

Don't know about yours, but my wheel would only go on in one position only, correctly. The shaft has a spot that is missing a groove that lines up with a flat spot on the wheel. Take a look at your old wheel and see if this is the case.

 

The proper way would be to pull the wheel and reinstall. The steering gear should be centered as much as possible.


Sent from my iPhone

 

I agree

 

I would think that if you just put the wheel on, a puller would get it off pretty easy. Just take your time and go slow.

 

Pullers don't work on those. The contact is in the middle and the bakelite edges will crumble. If you tear up the back edge, your turn signal cancel wheel won't work.

I went through this same hassle with my repop wheel. I have all the tools needed and they are no match for the "made in india" crap splines and brittle recycled "bakelite". You end up jamming the wheel on so tight just to get the nut to grab the threads that you can never get it back off without destroying the wheel you just paid $100+ for.

I dissassembled it and started with the puller till the edge started to crumble. Then used some hammer till the threads were in jeopardy. Finally I had to make a collar that contacted the entire back edge and pressed it out with a hydraulic press. The back edge still crumbled but I was able to able to salvage enough of it to catch the cancel wheel if I moved the turn signal too close to the steering wheel.

 

I disagree. I've pulled plenty of them off with pullers as have others. You do have to be careful, take your time, and be careful with the setup.

 

Nick,

Thanks for this comment. Even if I could adjust the drag link, it seems that it would put the steering gear off center. That's one of the reasons I thought about dropping the pitman arm, adjusting the wheel and putting the arm back on a spline or two over, but after reading up on it, it sounds like pulling the pitman arm could be quite a chore as well. Plus, I'm not sure the size of the splines would allow me to put it back to center after adjusting the wheel.

I wonder if my local Jeep dealership might have the TSM wheel puller for a 74. That might be might next step.

 

jeepers24 had the right answer about a dozen posts ago. Pull the intermediate shaft off the splines of the column at the firewall, turn the wheel where you want it and slide it back on. Easy peasy and easier than pulling the wheel and keeps the steering gear centered.

 

Thanks. Which one is the intermediate shaft? The TSM diagram shows an upper and lower shaft, each of which connects to the u-joint. Once identified, how do you pull it?

 

Look at the steering shaft right where it exits the firewall. You should see a U-joint that connects the upper and lower shaft. It has two bolts which pinch it tight onto the splines of each shaft. If you loosen and remove one of the bolts the U-joint will slide off the splines of the shaft. Shouldn't matter which one you remove for this purpose. That will let the steering wheel and upper shaft spin free since it is now separated from the lower shaft/steering gear. There should be enough movement in the lower joint (the one connecting to the lower shaft to the steering gear) to allow the U-joint to slide free of the splines. It shouldn't be seized, but some penetrating oil wouldn't hurt. On the u-joint you should see a slot which allows it to pinch tight on the splines of the shaft when the bolt is tightened. If you drive a screwdriver into that slot it should spread it enough to loosen it from the shaft. You will have to remove the bolt completely, not just loosen it, because the shaft is notched to allow the bolt to lock it in place.

Only problem you might encounter is getting the upper shaft to stay in place when you try to reinstall the U-joint & lower shaft. Mine kept wanting to push the upper shaft out of the column since there's nothing holding it in except gravity. In hindsight you could use a strap to tie the wheel to one of the pedals and hold it in place, also as a way of "locking" the wheel exactly where you want it to be when reassembled so it doesn't spin on you.

Sounds complicated but it's not. It's a piece of cake and much much easier than removing the steering wheel.

 

Thanks for the explanation. One question though, if the upper shaft is notched to allow the bolt to lock it in place and you turn the upper shaft to straighten the wheel, won't that knock the notch out of alignment when you put it back into the u-joint and no longer allow the bolt to lock it in place? especially assuming you don't allow the lower shaft or u-joint to turn at all so as to not change the steering gear/alignment? Or am I missing something?

 

The place that the bolt goes in is a grove that goes around the shaft, if I remember correctly, so it will always be in alignment.

 

Both of the yokes at that connection are splined. The shaft from there to the gear is not going to be tight because of play in the gear and the lower joint.

In my opinion it's a good time to replace the universal joints.