Disc brake conversion question

I'm switching my front Dana 27 axle to discs using a kit from RP4WD. I've removed all the old components, cleaned everything up, replaced all the fasteners with new ones, and I put new oil seals on the back side of the knuckle. After putting the spindle back on with the caliper mounting bracket and whatever the hell the other round zinc-coated piece is in the pic (lying on the brackets), I realized I had forgotten about the oil seal (seen in between the wheel bearings).



Where does this go? If I put it on before the spindle as seems evident in the IPB [part #17]:



I don't understand what holds it in place. (On that same note, I'm surprised there is no seal in between the spindle and the knuckle to hold in all the oil).

Thanks.

 

That seal taps into the rotor after you put the inner bearing in. Some #2 Permatex on the bolt that hold the spindle in and on the surface of the spindle and the face of the knuckle will help with leaks.

 

I also found it odd that I don't have any bushings like the pic shows; were these not part of the setup every year?

 

I believe that is the seal that goes on the back side of the hub/rotor asm. It holds the grease in the wheel bearing cavity. Don't forget to put wheel bearing in before the seal is installed. I always pack inner wheel bearing and put it in hub then install the seal.

 

What foreman said.


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I'm assuming the seal goes in so that the convex side faces the bearing? It doesn't specify but that seems to make sense.

 

Yeah- the hub rotor assembly. The exploded picture, though, doesn't show the hub, so it won't do you any good regards placing that seal.

Not sure what you mean by convex- it's important to get our terms straight. But the side shown in the pic of the R&P assembly is the side that you can tap lightly on to drive it into the hub. If that is what you are calling the convex side, then, no, that side does not face the bearing. If you turn the seal over, you'll see the lip of the seal. That lip rides on the spindle and is slightly angled. The lip faces into the cavity that holds both the bearing and the grease

 

By convex I meant the part with the curve facing out. So you're saying that basically I'll be hammering on the curve of the seal, not the thin lip?

 

Ehh, a couple things:

1. hammering has a bad connotation here; I was suggesting lightly tapping on it.

2. only one side has much metal showing on it- that would be the side showing in the pic. As you position the hub so that the lug bolts are facing away from you, the race (or cup) for the inner bearing will be visible. After setting the bearing (aka cone) in the race, you can then lightly tap the seal into place. The seal does not hold the bearing in except to position the hub on the spindle; it's a grease seal- keeps the good stuff in and the bad stuff out. It'll be tight, so work it around gradually

3. I set the seal in flush with the surface of the hub

This is hard to describe in words. Best to get someone to show you the first time- it's easy to do, but tough to describe!

 

Thanks; it is hard to describe. I couldn't find a video to be sure, and the seal will go in either way (btw by "hammering" I meant lightly tapping with a dead blow hammer). I think I put them in backwards; the side facing up in the pics is facing the bearings.

EDIT: Answered my own question...seems one of the kingpin bearings had fallen out. Of course I notice that after the entire assembly is put together, Permatex gaskets and all. I suppose I should strip those off and redo them if I have to open those connections?

 

[Sorry for the newb questions...this is my first time going this in-depth on the axles...]

So the axle shafts are installed, along with the knuckles, spindles, and caliper mounting brakes. The weird thing is that the driver's side wheel isn't nearly as tight as the other: if you grab the top and bottom of the knuckle (or the sides), it's pretty easy to wiggle them around, while the passenger side is really tight and only moves in line with the steering assembly. Is this normal? Everything is torqued down already so I can't find where the looseness would come from. I'd think it's the kingpins, but the bearings are all good and everything is tight.

 

I don't know what the seal looks like, but if it has a spring on the inner lip of the seal, the spring side of the seal faces the bearing in the hub/rotor.

 

The side of the seal with the garter spring goes towards the bearings (towards the inside of the hub). I pack the spring part of the seal with grease to keep the spring from dislodging while installing the seal. If it pops out of place the seal will not be held tight enough against the spindle and grease will leak out and water/mud will leak in n


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You might want to start at he beginning on working on the Dana 27. Both it and the Dana 25 have specific procedures for setting pre load, torques etc on these axles. If the kingpins are not set up within specs, it's dangerous and the vehicle will probably be un-driveable. Think "death wobble".

Search both the early cj5 and flatfender tech sections for the procedures or get a manual. Once you understand the engineering that went into these axles, it will all make sense. I enjoy working on them- one of my favorite parts of the vehicle to wrench on.