Brake MC Bracket from Herm ?

Don't know what to tell you Nick, I can post pictures. I did exactly what it said and it was not even close. We are talking about a 1/4 inch out on two holes and the others were close but still had to be redrilled. The only other person I knew of besides you, told me the same thing happened to them.

My CJ is a 1963 CJ5 which should be pretty much the same as yours Nick. Even if some people are making it work first shot - I still think my advice is valid and worth saying since clearly at least one other person had it not work. My advice was just a precaution to make sure, much like measuring twice before cutting

Cant help but noticing you also have several inches of clearance between your transmission and that MC Nick, on mine there is maybe 2-3mm between the bleeder value on the MC and the transmission. So your setup is a little different than mine in that regard. Mine is an all original CJ5, original frame, tranmission and all, not sure what is different between our two Jeeps. I would think that would not matter on mounting the bracket though, maybe it does

 

My Jeep is non stock so yes, it will look different than what you have as far as distance between the transmission, bellhousing, etc. I have a Buick 231, Saginaw 4 speed, pto winch.

This has no bearing on installation whatsoever except the pto winch. The pto shaft is in the way but I was still able to do the installation with it installed. Like I mentioned above, I had to remove the driver's side header so I could drill the holes. Again, they are not stock and if I didn't have headers it would not have been an issue.

Not doubting you had issues.nothing wrong with making a template.

What I don't understand is how the holes could be that far off to bolt up the bracket when you use the very same bracket as a template to mark the holes?
The bracket was designed with that very thought in mind. I know this as I've spoken to the guy who designed it.

I pulled my kit out of the box having never installed one. Followed the directions. Installed it. No problems related to the kit whatsoever.
If there are issues, contact John at R&P. He is very helpful and needs the feedback if there is an issue.
I could have simply replaced my single reservoir master cylinder with a replacement but decided to go this route so I could honestly critique the kit. I've given R&P some feedback for my part. Personally I'm happy with the kit and have no issue recommending it.
If it was not a good kit I'd say that too.


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If you used the MC bracket as a template, as directed, on the outside of the frame, how in the world could it be off? IIRC, the instructions DO say you may need to elongate some of the holes to get it to fit, but that would only happen if the bracket slipped during marking or if the holes were drilled at different angles...you DO need to be mindful to keep the bracket within the inside dimensions of the frame, while marking it on the outside.

 

"What I don't understand is how the holes could be that far off to bolt up the bracket when you use the very same bracket as a template to mark the holes?
The bracket was designed with that very thought in mind. I know this as I've spoken to the guy who designed it."

"If you used the MC bracket as a template, as directed, on the outside of the frame, how in the world could it be off? IIRC, the instructions DO say you may need to elongate some of the holes to get it to fit, but that would only happen if the bracket slipped during marking or if the holes were drilled at different angles...you DO need to be mindful to keep the bracket within the inside dimensions of the frame, while marking it on the outside."

When you move the part of the bracket that goes over the clutch/brake tube it is variable on how it lines up going back on, because it is in a different position. Because the MC sits so close to the transmission you do not have the room to move it around to get it to hit the holes you just made before.

The bracket was lined up with the inner dimensions and it was c-clamped to the frame. I did EXACTLY what the instructions said, but because the transmission is so close it was not possible to use the same holes when flipping it around.

Let me clear something up though, I have nothing bad to say about the install, I think the kit is awesome and I also agree the guys at R&P are great to deal with - all I am saying is you really need to make a seperate template and make sure it can line up, because in a 1963 CJ5 that has been unchanged mechanically from the day it was made, the transmission does block the install and you could end up doing it over, such as I did. I suppose it is possible someone could get lucky and it not need to be redone but I doubt it. I am not in-experienced in working on cars and even though I may not be near you guys skills and I am not some rookie either. I could have done the install without a kit probably but this was light years better. All I am saying is there is a gotcha waiting for stock CJ installers and because I was not aware of it, it did get me. I had even trail fited the part twice before hand.

One thing I could have done was removed the front bleeder valve and blocking it off, and maybe I should have since it will not be possible to use it anyway - but I did not want to do that. That would have given around a 1/4 inch to wiggle the MC and it might have lined up

 

What front bleeder valve are you talking about/pic.

All I remember is the block the lines screw into.

Alyssa's CJ5 is a '65 all factory.

Thanks,
Jim

 

The R&P conversion uses a Wilwood m/c that has bleeder valves built in. The stock master cylinder does not.


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OK thanks-I was getting confused.