D44 Tapered Axle Depth

While putting my axles back in the housing. I noticed that the wheel bearings don't sit as deep as I imagined they would. I remember them being more flush. Both sides are similar. I've beat on both sides with a dead blow. Not excessively. Any suggestions? Anything obvious? I put new seals in but they don't seem any thicker.

 

Both axles are in the carrier. Do I need to align the key stock? Is there a certain orientation the axle goes in?

 

I'll try beating on the seals again. They're seated.

Backstory:
The housing, axles, and bearings came off a 65 axle with 5.38s and open diff.
The pinion, power lok, and ring gear 3.73 came from my 66.

I put the old axle in and it sat a little better .Both are same length, but the 66' bearing is about 1/16th more in board which makes it sit slightly better.

 

What does the axle look like going into the spider gears? It IS the same spline count, right? It should slide right in and the bearing cup should need a little persuasion.

 

Contact is metal to metal in the carrier. It's not the seal

From spacer/stop to axle housing flange PS:
17-1/8"

That's also the approximate dim from carrier end of axle to out board face of bearing.

I'm getting some contact with tape measure at:
16-7/8"

I believe thats my hold up. If you look in the pictures you can almost a square edge in the carrier.

PS


DR

 

I would almost guarantee your problem is the powerloc.
I had this exact problem after having a local shop rebuild the powerloc and press on new bearings, turned out the powerloc was bolted together 90 degrees off from what it should be.
If you look at the cross pins on the powerloc, one side has a "V" shape, and the other half is round. If it is put together with the round side sitting in the "V" slot, it won't let the axle slide all the way in.

You can see in the picture below the round side up, then the other cross pin has the "V" side up, if not assembled correctly the bolts need to be removed, then this entire assembly needs to be moved 90 degrees so the pins drop in the correct slots.

 

Yes it is a power lok.

I'll going to pull the power lok but any input on what to look for? Vs are in Vs, Round ends are in round ends. Could 180 degrees throw the power lok off?

 

Well, that looks correct. I would still pull it apart and check it if it were me.

 

Just thinking out loud. Please correct if im wrong. With 44 powerloks 3:73 and 5:38 fall into different series?Any chance the spacer bushing is unique to the series and is longer?

 

Axles from the 5.38 and and the 3.73 are the same length. Only noticeable difference was length of the gear teeth up the shaft. I tried both axles with same effect. I'll pull the carrier tomorrow after work and follow up.

 

Picture shows that the rear wheel bearings are about 3/8" shy of proper location.
Were new wheel bearing pressed all the way onto the axle shafts ?
Wheel bearings should butt up against the ring around the end of axle shaft.
Also...
The ends of the tapered axle shafts are supposed to hit up against the "center-blok spacer" .
The center block spacers are required in order to adjust the shim packs for the wheel bearings.
Center blok spacers are only required for use with tapered type axle shafts.
Otherwise the Powr Lok, center blok spacers are removed.

 

Couldn't remember correct terminology. That was what I was trying to ask. So begs the question if using a powerlok does each axle need shimmed independently as you no longer are dealing with one unit from end to end? Sorry just realized this borders on hijack but may still be pertinent to op. Retreats...