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Edelbrock Running Rich

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by Tree cutter 08, May 24, 2019.

  1. May 25, 2019
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    This is essentially correct, there's a metering rod and a jet, the metering Rod is controlled by a vacuum operated piston on each side.
     
  2. May 25, 2019
    Keys5a

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    The Carter metering rods have a taper, and if I recall, the first two digits of their number apply to the idle/low rpm mixture, and the second two digits apply to the mid/higher rpm mixture. This is still kind of crude, but it works with a bit of tinkering. Yes, they are controlled by a vacuum operated piston.
    -Donny
    -
     
  3. May 25, 2019
    Lockman

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    Hey Fellahs ... I'm not being a jerk here, but I believe that he has too much Fuel Pressure for the EdelBrock, among other things.
     
  4. May 25, 2019
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    ?? You're not being a jerk, that's entirely possible.
     
  5. May 25, 2019
    timgr

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    Mmm. Thought he mentioned a pressure regulator earlier in the thread? Set to the pressure recommended by Edelbrock?
     
  6. May 25, 2019
    Lockman

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    Yes he did ...said under 6.5 PSI. EdelBrock recommends under 5.5. That is one of the things that piqued my interest in trying to help him.
     
  7. May 25, 2019
    Tree cutter 08

    Tree cutter 08 Member

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    Thanks for the tips so far! Fuel pressure is set around 4 to 5. It does vary some but stays under the recommended max. I went leaner this evening with the metering rod change. I went ahead and check float heights and their in spec. I can tell a difference. Seems it runs and idles better. Still puffs a bit of black smoke after extended idle or low rpm cruising but not as bad as it was. I think I can go one more adjustment before I have to change jets. Pipes are a lot cleaner after a 50 mile ride this evening.
     
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  8. May 25, 2019
    Tree cutter 08

    Tree cutter 08 Member

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    One more thing, jeep fires up when cold and hot with a bump of the starter. Problem is when warm and has sat for 15 or 20 mins you have to open throttle to get it to crank . Otherwise it will not start. I installed the heat shield spacer from edelbrock and I can't tell a difference. Any ideas?
     
  9. May 25, 2019
    Lockman

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    Hey Cutter. your gettn to it , ! think........is your carb set up with the auto choke or is it Manuel ?
     
  10. May 25, 2019
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    Try a different brand of gasoline... Seriously. Not all fuels have the same boiling point, some are more prone to heat soak than others.
     
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  11. May 26, 2019
    Tree cutter 08

    Tree cutter 08 Member

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    Haven't thought about different brands of gas. but I do think it's heat soak right? So far I've ran gas from 2 different places. Next time I'll try something else.
     
  12. May 26, 2019
    Tree cutter 08

    Tree cutter 08 Member

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    It's a manual choke. Had it set perfect when I first got the engine running. Need to adjust it again since our low temps are 20 to 30 degrees higher.
     
  13. May 26, 2019
    Lockman

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    That's a good thought , too......... Higher octane fuel , maybe?
     
  14. May 26, 2019
    timgr

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    Putting the return line back (assuming it was there, like other '75s) could help with heat soak. According to the TSM it vents vapor through the return line when under-hood temperatures are high. See the TSM excerpt in my earlier post in this thread. I expect heat soak happens when the hot engine sits with no air flow to cool the engine compartment. Easy experiment - open the hood at shut-off and see if the problem goes away.
     
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  15. May 26, 2019
    Tree cutter 08

    Tree cutter 08 Member

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    Great idea! I'll try it. I ran a return line up to engine and capped it off before I put the tub on. Wouldn't be a big deal to hook it up.
     
  16. May 26, 2019
    Lockman

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    You'll need a special Fuel filter set up , with 2 outlet nipples ( Doesn't everybody !.....LoL ) According to the TSM, the return line nipple should be at the top position.

    upload_2019-5-26_20-2-2.png
     
  17. May 26, 2019
    Tree cutter 08

    Tree cutter 08 Member

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    Another thought about the fuel boiling, the carb came with a chrome hardline the comes down beside the carb and along side the carb less than a inch from the intake. It has a built in filter that is cleanable. I just wander if it being so close maybe that's where my problem is?
     
  18. May 26, 2019
    Lockman

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    My thinking is that you install the above filter , inline, with the return line hooked up, you most likely have solved your problem....:study:
     
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  19. May 27, 2019
    Tree cutter 08

    Tree cutter 08 Member

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    Tried the open hood trick. It had to spin a few times but did crank without holding the throttle down. So, would that mean my fuel is boiling and evaporating out of the bowl when hot?
     
  20. May 27, 2019
    timgr

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    What do you mean by "crank?" I think this is a regional expression that does not mean the same thing in the rest of the country.

    Hot cranking problems are different from vapor lock. Supposedly this is a much worse problem with high-compression engines with lots of advance. Ignition happens so easily that it locks against the starter and it won't crank. Another easy experiment - disconnect the coil wire when it's hot, and it may spin a lot faster. The gear-driven starters are one cure for that, or you can put s switch on the dash that disconnects the ignition power. Start the engine cranking then turn the coil on. The Motorcraft ignition is quite nice in this respect, since it has a starting mode (blue/white wire to the solenoid) that retards the spark specifically to make starting easier.
     
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