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Mounting Rack To Roll Bar

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by FinoCJ, Jun 25, 2019.

  1. Jun 25, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    Maybe this have been covered before...feel free to push me in the right direction of previous threads...

    Looking to mount a small rack to my roll bar... this would actually be inside the cab, in the rear seat area. My the rear support bars for the main hoop are square corners - think FJ40 - as opposed to the more common straight bars that go directly down to the rear corner. I want to mount a rack to the horizontal portion of the roll bar...kind of like a shelf. I don't intend to put lots of weight on this - its mostly for soft duffel bag, rucksack type stuff. The rack is weighted for 300lbs itself and probably weighs about 20lbs - I can't imagine ever getting near 300lbs on it, but lets say that is the target max weight. I see two options:

    1) is there a way to clamp onto the roll bar tube (2") with something like an exhaust clamp? Can I get the exhaust clamp tight enough to keep it from rotating on the round tube too much without damaging the tube? Other options than an exhaust clamp - maybe just some u-bolts?
    2) Drilling and mounting direction to the roll bar, but I am concerned about just drilling through the roll bar and bolting through it...is that okay? It seems I remember discussion about that might just squeeze and deform the tubing - but maybe that was for very high strength applications like shoulder seat-belts mounts. I could drill the holes through, then weld in a sleeve...this is probably the best solution, but is it necessary?

    I don't need huge strength in this mount - but it is important to not compromise the integrity of the roll bar itself. thanks
     
  2. Jun 25, 2019
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Active Member

    Sacramento Ca.
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    I love the idea and have thought about it also. I was concerned with the amount of flex that part of the roll bar would see. I was thinking anything bolted to or thru the roll bar would need to flex along with the roll bar, I'm guessing a light weight shelf would flex just fine and not damage the tubing it was attached to. I'll be interested (pirating) whatever you come up with that works :clap:
     
  3. Jun 25, 2019
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Northern California
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    Shaft collars with a tab welded to them is what I used for my roof basket cross bars. Your local fastenall should have them.

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Jun 25, 2019
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Active Member

    Sacramento Ca.
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    How thick is that reinforcing gusset triangle on your cage? I like it.
     
  5. Jun 25, 2019
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    1/8" The hole drilled in it comes in handy for tying stuff down.....
     
  6. Jun 25, 2019
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Active Member

    Sacramento Ca.
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    There's a lot of sense coming out of this common sense build (y)
     
  7. Jun 25, 2019
    neohic

    neohic Gentleman Jeepist

    Woodland Park, CO
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    I like using tube clamps. They’re available in all sorts of sizes and they can be welded to or they’re thick enough to drill/tap. Once they’re clamped and tight, there’s no turning them. I wouldn’t hesitate a 300# load if the rest of the structure can handle it.

    Ruffstuff 2.00" OD Tube Clamp

    [​IMG]
     
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  8. Jun 25, 2019
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Last edited: Jun 25, 2019
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  9. Jun 25, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    that's the words I needed...much better time searching for stuff now...thanks!
     
  10. Jun 25, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    thinking: The rack is 49.5 inches across, and the space across between the roll bar on each side is 50.5". The shaft collars for 2" ID are 3" OD - which means they take up about 1/2" of space each (1"total) between the roll bar. I think I could use a single shaft collar (vertical alignment of the horizontal portion of the roll bar) on each side with a welded plate (1/8") that will mount to the rack with two bolts (might have to pry a 1/4" of space in there). Probably the ideal, strongest set-up, but not sure if I have quite enough room or not.

    but...also thinking of another, maybe simpler (well no welding) but a bit less secure...I could use two exhaust clamps on each side with the ends of the u-bolts pointing inwards and mount the plate to those ends. The mounting to the rack would be the same with two bolts on each side. This should give me just a bit more room to fit everything between the roll bar. I am using the HF 300lbs ATV cargo hitch rack...in other words, its not the strongest most solid thing ever built...not sure I need to go overboard with the mounts, but I just don't want to damage the roll bar with over tightened exhaust brackets....
     
  11. Jun 25, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    These are pretty cool - have a space saving flat spot for welding onto...
    [​IMG]
     
  12. Jun 26, 2019
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

    At the foot of...
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    Just a random thought here....this rack is going to be right behind your head. Be sure you have a way to secure the cargo solidly or it may become a projectile in an accident.
     
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  13. Jun 26, 2019
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

    WA
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    Cosmetically speaking...I personally think this part would look better at a 45° angle vs the 90°, IMO.
    [​IMG]
     
  14. Jun 26, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    true...especially with low back seats in the front. But then again...having something to strap stuff down to securely is better than having stuff piled up with no way to secure it. Also want to make sure it's placed properly to minimize the chance of hitting the back our heads on it in a whip lash scenario. One if the safety trade offs with low back seats.
     
  15. Jun 26, 2019
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Yep, bobbed corners would look nicer, but this was a whipped up quick project 2 hrs before camping...... Actually I like the flat surface on top for lashing things down. Example: last weekend we came across a nice 6" diameter cut off log about 6' long on the way to our camp site. I threw it up on the cross bars to haul it to camp.
     
  16. Jun 26, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    All of the shaft collars I can find locally are black oxide...can I weld on that safely with standard mig/flux core? Otherwise I will have to order online plain steel.
     
  17. Jun 26, 2019
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I ground the black oxide off before welding....
     
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  18. Jun 26, 2019
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
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    Was thinking of grinding one side a bit flat anyway to weld the angle iron bracket I intend to make.
     
  19. Jun 26, 2019
    SoCalNickG

    SoCalNickG Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Whittier, CA.
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    The black oxide coating is just oxidized steel (think controlled rust). Through chemicals and heat the steel oxidizes to a black color. Black oxide is gun bluing. Black oxide is only about 3 to 4 millionths of an inch thick and can be stripped with muriatic (pool) acid. It can easily be ground through. If you remove any oil, you can weld through it.
     
  20. Jun 26, 2019
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

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    Good point.
     
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