Tub Removal

I'm sure this has been written about many times before but I'm striking out on finding the thread... Fixing to removal my tub and want to read about problems y'all have encountered , advice, precautions etc. Any and all information.

If anyone has the link would you please post here or just hammer me with your expertise guys!! Thanks as always!!!

 

remove steering column and top of transmission

 

definitely. shouldnt be too difficult beyond that.

 

3 guys can lift it pretty easily. We've seen folks do it with engine hoist by themselves. Stand it on the back end over in the corner while you get the chassis stuff done. Play some JGB and take your time. Enjoy.

 

I used a chain hoist bolted to the ceiling of my garage. It's nowhere near as heavy as you'd think. I can lift up one end of it by myself. Remove steering column. I didn't remove my shifter because the chain hoist brought it high enough for mew to roll the frame from under it.

The tie points I used for the chain hoist were bolts locked by nuts into the holes for the hood hinges in the front and around the two tube thingamajigs coming up from the top of the rear wheelhouse in the back. Two straps and a engine hoist load leveler.

John

 

Thanks guys....How about the bolts, I worry they are so rusted that they might need to be cut off or such?

 

WD-40 for the bolts. works like a charm

 

How about heating up with a torch?

 

dunno, seems like you would do more harm than help, but ive never tried it. WD is reasonably priced, available all over, and it works. just put it on there and wait a while (i would say 30-60 mins). try to get it as far in as possible, as it cuts the rust.

 

Oil'em, Cut'em, Drill'em, Break'em whatever it takes. You will be buying lots of new bolts no matter what.

 

i need about a whole new bolt set for mine. all of the bolts on the jeep are badly rusted, could use replacement.

 

Get a medium size bolt organizer, Go to Tractor Supply, Buy bolts, nuts and washers. Bolts from 3/4” to 3” long in sizes 1/4” 5/16” 3/8” and 7/16”. You will need some 1/2” but not many. 95% will be regular course thread.

 

probably will cost more than the $2.73 that is allocated to jeep stuff...

 

I took a wrench to mine and some came off easily, that was fine. Some snapped immediately or within the first few threads, also fine.
The ones I didn't enjoy were the rusty ones that fought every thread, but not so hard that it made sense to cut them.

 

WD-40 isn't a penetrating oil. Sure, it works better than not putting anything on a rusty fastener, but save yourself some effort, and buy an actual penetrating oil. I generally use Kroil, CRC knock r' loose, or Seafoam Deep Creep.

 

If you have an Impact now is the time for it, they will come out or break. I like to use stainless bolts to re assemble you may want to take it apart again. I found Stainless Carriage bolts at Lowes for the floor and box mounts. I like the look of shiny bolts in the trans hump cover and floor, I never put my top on so it gets water in the floor every now and then. Good Luck.

 

ive had bolts breaking tools, put that stuff on, wait an hour

 

If you need a lot of penetrating oil, a mix of acetone and ATF is said to work well, or at least as well as many of the products in a pressurized can. You can make and use a lot; fill a pump oiler and squirt away.

 

Recipe on that mix timgr?