Hub Puller Not Working - Next?

seriously, put it on, set it as tight as it goes, and hammer the heck out of the dog bone with a BFH. come back the next day and repeat.
or use a long pipe that fits over the dog bone wrench for leverage and keep reefing it.
*just make sure the nut is on there to prevent it from flying off. when it breaks loose, its literally like a shotgun blast in your garage.*

 

I have a good pair of axles and hubs to sell if you end up cutting let me know. I decided to go to a 1 piece axle shaft dana44 out of a 72 CJ5 so I have some extra flanged axle stuff hanging around.

 

FINALLY! Yes a new day helped, along with more PB Blaster, heat and a bigger heavier sledge.

Hot tip of putting the nut back on sure helped when it finally let loose. BOOM!

 

Yea, You could have hit the end of the bolt in the pulled too.

 

Waiting for this to pop. I’ve already done heat. After dinner I’m going to try some of the other suggestions. Like a bigger hammer. Also need to put the big nut back on to keep the damage/ injury to a minimum.

 

I thought I would never get mine off. Finally went but had to buy new hubs as it bent them.

 

When I pulled one years ago I loosened the nut and drove in figure eights in the yard until it came loose.

 

Hit it a few more times after dinner and it came right off. Hitting on the bolt then the bone like someone suggested did the trick.

 

PB Blaster does nothing to get the hub loose from the axle, but it will help loosening the nut. When you crank on the dogbone part of the puller, whack with a 1-2lb hammer to about when the flange starts to distort. Then, whack on the end if the threaded shaft. That is what will release the taper fit. If you have to, let it sit under tension for a day or two, maybe thightening the dogbone one or two more hits each day. I've had them release in the middle of the night down in the detached garage, waking me up. I knew what it was!
-Donny

 

Congrats! I am finally getting mine all back together but have since broke my flaring tool and my dial indicator all in one day. I figured it was the Jeep Gods telling me to enjoy the beautiful sunny winter warm Cali day instead. Back to it tomorrow after work and after my new tools arrive.

 

Shame you ruined the hub, but the force is strong in you

You probably know this, but I have seen enough split hubs to make this worth saying.

When installing a hub always put the hub on first, align the key slots, then tap in the key, put on the washer and nut, tighten the nut to 150lbs, then if the castle nut does not align with the hole for the cotter pin tighten more until it does. This sequence causes the hub and key to be pushed onto the taper as a unit.

Two things of importance:

1) DO NOT back the nut off to align for the cotter pin. It is okay to go beyond 150lbs, and these often end up with 200lbs torque. The hub will loosen up if you do this.

2) NEVER EVER put the key in the slot before the hub!!. If you do this the hub will push the key ahead of it, it will ramp up and serve as a wedge which will split the hub. The hub will seem to tighten but it will split and become dangerous.

 

I suggest this one.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900318
I didn't check the size so just be sure you get the correct one.
.

 

Yep! Great stuff. I learned that through this great video a while back.

 

I did notice the manual specifically says to not use heat on the axle shaft lest you disturb the temper and weaken the shaft. I think I'd rather cut the drum/flange than risk it.
I got lucky, some BFH work on the dog bone and then when that didn't seem to do anything I just leaned on it with an impact wrench for a minute or two and it finally relented.
Forever ago I was tasked with pulling the hubs on a ~'42 Jag and they just would not come loose. I wound up welding a frame to them to allow me to set a 10-ton bottle jack in the space so I could push on the axle. I've never seen a bottle jack separate before or since, the whole exterior just opened up with a dull thud. To be fair, I did have a pretty long handle on it! wound up just grinding it all down on one side and splitting it with a chisel, even then I needed to use another jack in the fixture to get the split hub off.

 

On stubborn hubs which won't come off by striking the "dog bone" of the puller, I leave them under tension for a day or two with some Kroil applied to the joint, give the bone a whack a few times while waiting, then give the center bolt of the puller a whack or two with a 2lb hammer. Almost never failed to get one off this way, but it does sometimes take a few days. Kroil is our friend.

About heat destroying temper. It would have to be heated almost cherry red to destroy the temper, but some moderate heat on the hub will cause enough expansion to get things to move, and is sometimes needed.

 

Not quite. Although I agree heat can be useful if care is taken, much lower temps can spoil tempered items.

I temper my timber-framing chisels at about 450ºF, for instance. "Cherry-red" is the temperature at which I first quench the hot steel to initially harden it, then the hardness needs to be reduced ("tempered") by reheating it to much lower temperatures.

"Cherry red" is around 1000ºF, but a re-heating temperature as low as 600ºF would be enough to ruin the tempering, making the steel too soft again. At least in conventional steel alloys.

If you ever ground a drill bit or cold-chisel and the edge turned blue, and it would no longer stay sharp, that was about 600ºF.

 

Perhaps I should have worded it differently. What I am suggesting is moderate heating of the hub. I don't think the hub is tempered and just enough heat to cause some expansion there would not transfer enough heat to the axle to soften it.

What you mention about chisels is exactly why I never sharpen a chisel on a normal electric grinder. I have a huge water cooled pedal grindstone, about 3' in diameter and nearly 4" thick, which is what I use to sharpen all my chisels including cold-chisels, but mostly my wood working tools and lathe chisels. I also have a small water cooled electric grinder made for sharpening which I use for my carving chisels. I cringe when I see videos of wood turners sharpening their high dollar turning tools on an electric shop grinder.

 

Totally agree.