F134 Fuel Line To Carb Question

I am replacing the fuel pump and lines on my CJ5 with the F134.

The stock line from pump to carburetor is bent so it routes around the timing cover and up to the carb.

I want to install a Carter glass bowl fuel filter I have at the carb but since the YF inlet points directly toward the oil dip stick tube I will have to use a 90* elbow and reroute the steel line. I want to avoid using rubber fuel hose and clamps for this. Could use a flex line like the one from frame to pump which has flared fittings.

Can't find a new pump to carb pre-bent line anyway so even if I skip adding the fuel filter it looks like I have to bend my own line.

I figure others have done something similar, so would appreciate some insight on the best way to route the fuel line. Seems it might be better to not have it hugging the block like the stock line does because of heat.

 

Copper-steel type flared brakeline bends well.

 

X2.

NiCopp is a common named for it. Bends easily without kinking.

 

I took the top off my fuel pump and rotated it 180*, that puts in in line in the back and to out to the front. From there it is a lot easier to plum. I used a break line for a fuel line, hand bent it to fit, you don't have to double flare the carb end, just flare it and it won't leak. Good Luck.

 

Here is what I did. I had too much fuel pressure so I needed a regulator. Cut the existing line where it crossed the timing cover. Flared the end a bit. Then flexible hose to the regulator. Made a small bracket that attaches to the thermostat housing to keep vibration down. So far it works good.

 

that's an interesting oil filter setup, greeves. how does it work? was it a kit?

 

It isn't a fuel filter, but a pressure regulator. It reduces pressure to keep from overloading the float valve and flooding the bowl.

 

He may be looking at the spin-on oil filter. His jeep could have a canister type.

 

Aha, I didn't read it carefully enough to catch he was asking about the oil filter.

That looks a lot like the standard oil filter on the late 60s CJ5, except the one on my 1967 has a tab behind it with a big hose clamp. It works the same as the canister type, just the hose connections are both on the bottom.

 

oh. yeah. i have the canister type, didn't know there was anything else. i feel a bit dumb, but now i know a bit more.

 

Here comes the dumb question. Why do you have a Pressure Regulator?

 

Dumb like a fox?

Would the answer include the float valve orifice and needle?

 

I too was wondering why he needed a regulator, but thought he might have some kind of electric pump.

The quality of parts available varies. The first time I rebuilt the YF for my CJ5 I used a kit I ordered off of eBay. The float valve in the kit didn't look exactly right, but I tried it. When I bench tested it with a hand pump at first it did shut the flow off when full, but with just a little more squeeze it overflowed, so I ordered a better kit and after I installed that it works fine.

 

I did the same thing, I bought a kit off E Bay, most of it didn't work right, I wound up using only the gaskets and the accelerator pump. Carb works good now, so I don't look back. Good Luck.

 

Scoutpilot knows more about this than me but here's my take...

The generic YF kits often have the wrong float valve/needle for Jeeps. A pressure regulator is a band-aid for that.

The correct Jeep YF orifice is smaller. This translates to reduced pressure on the valve from incoming fuel. Also, the Jeep-type needle is spring-loaded. Both these factors reduce flooding on rough terrain or steep slopes.

(Note also that the float height specification will be different.)

Lacking the correct parts, or float setting, some Jeep owners have believed that a pressure regulator mitigated the problem.

 

I was getting a lot of flooding episodes so I measured the fuel pressure at the carb. I was getting almost 7 psi. I think the FSM says something about 3 so I put in the pressure regulator. Problem solved. I also added a Wix cannister fuel filter before the fuel pump.
I think there has been info on here about fuel pressure regulators.

 

Correct.

 

Don, I just took my time and made it go through the alternator lock down bracket then over the dipstick tube and back to the block and up to the rocker cover side and into the carb. Worked out neat, no rubber hose. Good Luck.