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Cast Iron Pedal Modification?

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by FinoCJ, Jul 29, 2021.

  1. Jul 29, 2021
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
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    5,651
    How much can you modify OEM cast iron pedals?

    I am going to have an issue with not enough space between the gas pedal and brake pedal to safely move my right foot back and forth - this is due to the sm465 needing a much bigger hole and taking up much more width of tunnel area...it will stick up about vertically about 3 inches from the side of the hole pictured - so moving the gas pedal further right is not much of an option...
    [​IMG]

    The brake pedal has both a bend to the right (passenger), as well as the pedal pad (not pictured) is offset to the right (passenger)....
    [​IMG]

    Wondering if there is some way to reduce the bend in the pedal (and not cause issue with the steering column of course) and offset the 'pad' more to the left (driverside) to give another couple inches of gas pedal room?
    Was also thinking, I might could find another clutch pedal and use that to replace the brake pedal, but think there might be too much driver side offset as its the mirror image of the brake pedal.
    [​IMG]

    Or would a cj brake/clutch pedal be more straight - assuming the lever arm relationship with the MC piston is essentially the same?

    Anything other than hanging pedals would be a good solution....The never ending domino effect of modifications....
     
  2. Jul 29, 2021
    73 cj5

    73 cj5 Not ready for the junkyard yet

    Clinton, Mississippi
    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2014
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    2,146
    Here is what I did. Offset the gas pedal. My foot rests comfortably on the gas pedal now and I don't worry about hitting the brake pedal.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Jul 29, 2021
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash More or Less in Line. 2024 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Gulf Breeze FL...
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    Jun 5, 2007
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    3,617
    Project creep = swinging pedals.
     
    fhoehle and Fireball like this.
  4. Jul 29, 2021
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
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    Not enough room...when the trans cover is built, there will be less than 3" of room to the brake pedal...I really think the brake pedal has to move left in some way....
     
  5. Jul 29, 2021
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Spokane Valley, WA
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    Aug 13, 2015
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    6,686
    In a word, none.
    Unless they’re cast steel, and not cast iron? Cast steel can handle some heat and bending.

    Do you have any spare pedals that you could drill a hole in?
    powder=iron
    spirals/chips=steel
     
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  6. Jul 29, 2021
    73 cj5

    73 cj5 Not ready for the junkyard yet

    Clinton, Mississippi
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    If the brake pedal arm is the same dimensionally as an ECJ5 unit then I should have one you are welcome to try out.
     
    FinoCJ likes this.
  7. Jul 29, 2021
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
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    I am so hoping this might be the solution...the cj5 is on the other side of town so I can't compare...maybe sat when prepping for Leadville.

    Not sure...no spares
    Where's the bourbon...but I do like the idea of hydraulic clutch sometimes when trying to figure a mechanical system.
     
  8. Jul 30, 2021
    garage gnome

    garage gnome ECJ5 welder

    Western MA
    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2009
    Messages:
    3,093
    The pedals arms are cast steel. Heat them up and bend them as much as you wish. If they were cast iron, the tops would break every time a chisel was driven in to spread them to pull the pedal out.
     
    Rich M., FinoCJ and Twin2 like this.
  9. Jul 30, 2021
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
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    thanks - now if a cj5 pedal arm won't work, I might have to figure out a way to bend this one, or modify the pedal pad in some way. Guessing an OA set-up would be needed - might have to find some help on that. Going to finish pulling it all the way out and can post up some better pics - have to remove the mocked in column, brake MC and bracket, floor pan etc first, and I want to finish some stuff with the column mocked in place first.
     
  10. Aug 5, 2021
    fhoehle

    fhoehle Sponsor

    Harford Township, PA
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    Apr 11, 2012
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    I suspect the arms are cast steel as well. When I bought the Farmall M, the right brake pedal was bent around about 45 degrees from stock, like something got hooked on it. If it was cast, would've broken off. The Willys pedals are thin and not heavy which leads me to believe they are steel as well, cast would break from hard use being that thin. Just my opinion, your mileage may vary.
     
  11. Aug 5, 2021
    CHUGALUG

    CHUGALUG Member

    Silverton, OR
    Joined:
    May 11, 2019
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    243
    I bent my CJ2A pedal arms in the Vise with a couple of 1" D pieces of shaft to create a press die. Did it cold no problem.
     
  12. Aug 10, 2021
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
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    5,651
    Still struggling with how to solve this dilemna...here is the pedal and arm removed:
    [​IMG]
    The arm pivot shaft is 7/8" diameter. The length from the center of the basal pivot to the where the MC piston attaches is 2.75", and the entire arm length is 15.5"....I think the cj brake pedal arm is straight, I don't know if the cjs used a similar pedal that that keeps all those measurements and ratios the same?

    [​IMG]
    The bend in the pedal arm just above my hand could be straightened (and yes that would probably lengthen the arm abit) without causing interference with the lower portion of the steering column that protrudes through the firewall into the engine bay. Then there is also the 'offset' of the pedal pad at the end of the arm (looks like the pad is press fit into the arm?)...stupid idea to try and cut the pedal pad off, rotate it 180 degrees and weld it back it on so its offset to the other side?

    Or since I have no idea how the clutch linkage is going to work, just move on and try a hanging pedal set-up with firewall mounted MC and hydraulic clutch - I am quite intimidated to try to make a hanging pedal set-up work - especially given the weakness of the firewall in that area.
     
  13. Aug 11, 2021
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
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    So I am about to just cut the end of the pedal arm off with the 'L' offset section and round pad, flip it 180 degrees and weld it back on....My welding skills are rough, but if its cast steel, I might have a chance, especially if I try to add a bit of extra bracing/support over the weld. I am pretty sure its cast steel and its worth a shot. If it doesn't work, then its hanging pedals, but might as well try this first? Any suggestions...preheat it a bit, bevel the joint etc?
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2021
  14. Aug 11, 2021
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Northern California
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    Bevel the joint out pretty good, preheat and weld away. Wrap it in a non flammable blanket so it cools slowly.
     
  15. Aug 11, 2021
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
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    Done...far from perfect but think the extra inch it gives should help ...didn't get the front face angle quite right. but it should work well enough for now...If I can figure out the clutch linkage, and its all nice good, I could always cut it and try again.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
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