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Stock 1964 Cj5. What To Do

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Mark Wemple, Jun 27, 2022.

  1. Jun 27, 2022
    Mark Wemple

    Mark Wemple New Member

    Maryland
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    I'm looking at purchasing a 1964. Runs and drives, but doesn't run well and the entire brake system needs an overhaul. What should I look to be doing to improve performance and reliability. It won't be a daily driver but a fun vehicle that I will use on road and light off reading. FWIW, I own a 1960 Series 2 Rover, a 1992 Range Rover and a 97 TJ. TIA.
     
  2. Jun 28, 2022
    boopiejones

    boopiejones I can’t drive 55

    California east bay
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    If you have 9” brakes, upgrading to 11” is a huge improvement in stopping power and safety.

    other than that, I’d just get it running well and enjoy it. Assuming nothing internally wrong with the engine, a basic tune up, replacing spark plugs & wires, air and fuel filter and rebuilding the carb should get it working just fine.
     
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  3. Jun 28, 2022
    Dave Deyton

    Dave Deyton Member

    Fuquay-Varina, NC
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    Working on the 11 in brake upgrade on my 64.
    From someone who has been there, get it running well, upgrade the brakes and enjoy driving it.
    Once dissembled, it takes forever to get them back together so you can enjoy it. A rolling restoration means you can enjoy it.


    Dave
     
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  4. Jun 28, 2022
    jeepdaddy2000

    jeepdaddy2000 Active Member

    Eagle Point oregon
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    Sooooooo many answers...................
    As stated, the brakes are always the number one biggie. Either go through the system or upgrade to 11" or front discs. The stock system is barely adequate for today's driving habits.
    Next is the steering. Either repair any slop in the stock Ross system or upgrade to a Saginaw box. the repair is easier and cheaper but the Saginaw is better.
    Bushings are a biggie and effect the steering as well
    Fluid level checks on all boxes would be the last on my "gotta do" list prior to
    Remember it is a slow rig and best case scenario is to keep it under 55.
     
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  5. Jun 28, 2022
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Brakes, steering and engine are the big three.

    If you stay with original ride height and tire size, I'd think steering will be ok. The factory steering has a lot of moving parts, and is not known for precision or durability. If the Jeep was not owned by an enthusiast, expect to go through the steering and front knuckles completely.

    The 11" drum brakes are an easy upgrade, but it seems the brake assemblies (backing plates and hardware) have become less plentiful in the past decade. Parts for the 11" brakes are still widely available and comparatively cheap, but trending less so. Also, drum brakes seem mysterious to many rookie owners, and there are a couple of disk brake options you could look at.
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2022
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  6. Jun 28, 2022
    Mark Wemple

    Mark Wemple New Member

    Maryland
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    I like the idea of front disks. I want to do disks on my Series but it requires an axle swap to do right. So, what year did the 11" come out? Also, is the stock Carter the best carb, or should I look into other options? Are there performance upgrades to the 134 without a complete rebuild? Really appreciate the info guys!
     
  7. Jun 28, 2022
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    x2.
     
  8. Jun 28, 2022
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Last edited: Jun 28, 2022
  9. Jun 28, 2022
    Greevesman

    Greevesman Member

    Napa, Ca
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    I did 11" in the front. Left the rear 9" in place. BIG improvement and easy job.
     
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  10. Jun 28, 2022
    Mark Wemple

    Mark Wemple New Member

    Maryland
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    Other than changing to larger tires and axle ratios, anyvway to get into the 60 to 65 range safely?
     
  11. Jun 28, 2022
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
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    One thing to keep in mind while you are at this: there is a big bunch of crap replacement parts on the market that only sometimes actually work. Omix Ada is the purveyor of a lot of this stuff and only use them as an absolute last resort. If ordering, make a phone call if necessary to determine the parts vendor. I've had good experiences with both Walcks and DeDella.

    If this was my Jeep, I would probably just rebuild the 9 inch brakes if the existing pieces are salvageable-just to get it back on the road. Just new shoes/cylinders if needed. Anymore than that, replace them with 11" or discs. The 9" versions do work if in good condition and properly adjusted. The Ross steering is a PITA and almost impossible to keep excess movement out of. As Tim indicated, a lot of moving parts and the Ross box it's self is really wear pron with just two bare steel pins riding on the worm and no way to compensate for wear. A "TightSteer" definitely helps. https://www.thejeepsterman.com/prod...tion-wagon-m38a1-and-1966-1971-cj-5-and-cj-6/

    There has been a lot of effort to coax a few more ponys out of the Fhead, with, in my opinion, marginal results. If you really want a Jeep that is going to perform well on and off road, an engine swap will be in your future. That is a very slippery slope and can get expensive.
     
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  12. Jun 28, 2022
    Mark Wemple

    Mark Wemple New Member

    Maryland
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    If I did an engine swap I'm thinking 2.5 iron Duke. But then 3 speed teans would probably be upgraded to 5 speed and so on. Slippery slope.

    Honestly, I was only thinking 5 to 10hp. Nothing crazy. And, lol, if I rebuild the engine to stock, I'd probably get that.
     
  13. Jun 28, 2022
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    A cam change, headers and (for a F4 fairly exotic) two barrel carb swap might get you there.


    Maybe.


    On a good day.


    Going downhill.
     
  14. Jun 28, 2022
    Mark Wemple

    Mark Wemple New Member

    Maryland
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    Lol!!!
     
  15. Jun 28, 2022
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    The F134 is a really old engine design (1930s) and the head design is ... different. I believe the most successful hop-up efforts have used super- or turbo-charging. With its heavy block and forged crank, it should withstand boost pretty well. You know the old saying - "speed costs money; how fast do you want to go?" It will be much cheaper on a power-to-dollar basis to substitute another engine. I don't think there's much reason to go with the Iron Duke; 4.3L Chevy V6 donors are cheap and widely available, and there's lots of experience here with that engine. A 5-speed will be too long for your chassis. Add the Warn/Saturn overdrive if you want more top speed.
     
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  16. Jun 28, 2022
    Mark Wemple

    Mark Wemple New Member

    Maryland
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    The 4.3 makes sense ad you can get stand alone electrics
     
  17. Jun 28, 2022
    Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Virginia Beach, VA
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    yep . but you have to own it first
     
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  18. Jun 28, 2022
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    When was the T-90C first put in a CJ5? And 4.27 axles? Anybody?
     
  19. Jun 28, 2022
    GillaFunk

    GillaFunk I'm the Dude, so thats what you call me. 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Graeagle Calif...
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    Roxor Dana 44 front axle. Comes with disc brakes.

    its very nearly a direct bolt on. Tooo easy.
     
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  20. Jun 28, 2022
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
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    Only a warmed over version of the 1926 Whippet engine so mid 20's for the basic engine design. And nothing unusual for the era.
    I believe 1962, maybe for 1963 production.
     
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