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1967 Cj-5 Master Cylinder

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Dan Lockwood, Nov 23, 2022.

  1. Nov 23, 2022
    Dan Lockwood

    Dan Lockwood New Member

    Mid-Michigan
    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2021
    Messages:
    34
    I'm in the process of getting my '67 CJ-5 running. It was set up when I got it home and since got it to turn over quite well. Have not yet tried to start it as I'm sorting out fuel tank and lines for a clean supply to the aftermarket electric fuel pump.

    The clutch pedal works fine and I've greased the pivot mounting for both the clutch and brake pedals. The problem is that the brake pedal is not moving past the point of contact with the master cylinder. From the rest of the area under the Jeep, I'm sure the cylinder is just plain froze up.

    I ordered a reman from AutoZone and it came in today. Part # M1292. The picture on their website matches my master cylinder with the center bolt screw on cover. I have dual outlets on my cylinder and I would assume that this is a dual chamber/tandem master cylinder. The new one just came in today and it has the spring bale on the top that holds the cover on, but looks similar to my original in that both outputs are on the same side and the mounting flange has a two horizontal bolt pattern.

    Is this what you guys have been using for a replacement for the original? I found a few for around $175 that have the pushrod and round loop end along with the master cylinder, but this one is $32 remanufactured and for my use, plenty good enough.

    Any thoughts?

    I could not get either of the bolts loose so I had to sawzall them off and the brake lines came loose in the adapters on the master cylinder, but the brake line nuts are rusted/frozen onto the brake lines. They don't look all too old, but don't want to twist too hard and break the line.

    Any suggestions?

    Thanks and hope you all have a great Thanksgiving!!! Stay safe and travel safe. :)

    Dan
     
  2. Nov 23, 2022
    Andrew Theros

    Andrew Theros Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Los Osos, CA
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2021
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    393
    I believe that one you got is a single reservoir MC. That’s all I could find on the flaps websites, including talking to Napa.
    Somebody recently posted this link
    https://midwestjeepwillys.com/945556.html
    That’s the direction I plan on going.
     
    Twin2 and melvinm like this.
  3. Nov 23, 2022
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
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    5,593
  4. Nov 24, 2022
    amboynut

    amboynut Member

    Chelatchie, WA
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2021
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    310
    Kroil is your friend. Likewise Corrosion X, PB Blaster, WD40, and Liquid Wrench. In that order. Whichever you choose, hose it liberally and let it sit overnight at least. Longer is better.
     
    dozerjim likes this.
  5. Nov 24, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2018
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    5,627
    And heat. Even a propane torch does wonders.
     
    dozerjim likes this.
  6. Nov 24, 2022
    Dan Lockwood

    Dan Lockwood New Member

    Mid-Michigan
    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2021
    Messages:
    34
    Thanks!

    Yes, the AutoZone picture is what I have IN THE JEEP, but this is what they sent me. This is an eBay link, but the same master cylinder.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/1338793731...SsldJgMunahv0dBTShYIBhzw==|tkp:Bk9SR5DtsKaVYQ

    Everything dimensionally "seems" to be the same, but I still don't have the old master cylinder out of the Jeep. Tomorrow that will happen, hopefully.

    Just wondering if there's any reason to send this one back and "try" to get the correct looking one from AutoZone?

    Thanks again all for the great help! Hope you all have a great Thanksgiving... :)

    Dan
     
  7. Nov 24, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2018
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    5,627
    That's the newer firewall mount master cylinder. I would send it back and get the right one. That one does not have the residual pressure valves required for drum brakes. That generation has those valves in a distribution block.

    If you do keep that one, you would need add some inline residual pressure valves.
     
  8. Nov 24, 2022
    Oldpappy

    Oldpappy A.C. Fults - Curmudgeon at large 2022 Sponsor

    East Tennessee
    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2021
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    1,620
    Finding a "correct looking" replacement will likely be difficult. The one you got should work fine.

    If the master cylinder is locked up due to corrosion moisture has gotten into the system and you can expect there to be corrosion and crud in the lines.

    My suggestion is to also invest in a complete set of new brake lines including the hoses. I got a pre-bent hard line set, and the hoses from Walcks, at what I felt as a very reasonable cost, when I rebuilt the brakes on my 67. Brakes are not something you want to take shortcuts with. You can save a little money by bending your own, but a well made pre-bent set sure saves a lot of time.
     
  9. Nov 24, 2022
    Dan Lockwood

    Dan Lockwood New Member

    Mid-Michigan
    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2021
    Messages:
    34
    I had to order it online as my local dealer didn't have it in stock. I'll take it back tomorrow to the store with pictures of what it's supposed to look like and see if they can get me the correct one.

    Thanks guys for all the input, greatly appreciated...

    Dan
     
  10. Nov 24, 2022
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

    At the foot of...
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    Andrew Theros likes this.
  11. Nov 24, 2022
    termin8ed

    termin8ed I didn't do it Staff Member

    Mason, MI
    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2002
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    That looks like one I tried using. Worked, but I was having issues with pushrods. Not sure if I just had the wrong pushrod for the application. Happens when you have 3 different pedals laying around...
     
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