59 Cj5 Idles Poorly

59 cj5 F134 with carter yf938sd I've driven nice weather driving for about 10 years. No issues. Start of this spring after winter storage seems to idle poorly and I'm running out of ideas.

I rebuilt carb myself using kaiserwillys.com master kit I'm no carb guru but I'm pretty mechanically good with cars on every other aspect. Unsure of metering rod adjustment but otherwise im confident its right. No change

Sprayed carb fluid around looking for vacuum leaks only found at throttle shaft. Doesn't feel like too much play but not sure how much is too much. How can I fix this?

Drained gas thinking water. Didn't see water but was yellow now has fresh gas No change

Replaced intake valve seals and adjusted intake valves only No change

Today I checked spark and feel like it's very weak. Compared it to my 12v 63 willys truck there's a huge difference in spark size and color. So I Replaced points and adjusted to .020 and condenser and cap and rotor and new 12v external resistor coil and the resistor. Spark is still very weak.

Measured 12.5 volts before external resistor and about 10 after resistor not sure how the resistor works but is this normal? If I jumper wire 12v from battery to + of the coil I get good spark

 

I tried napa autozone and oreillys all only showed a listing for external resistor required coil. And none had a listing for the resistor itself. But I found one that listed for a 67 cj5 with the same engine so I thought it would work. Looking at oem wiring diagrams in my book it seems like they were probably originally requiring a external resistor coil but didn't use one and instead got the lower voltage from the back of the instrument gauges lower stepped voltage that way. This topic has confused me all day but it would be easier if I ordered a no resistor required coil online but was hoping not to wait that long. Napa was not helpful in finding a internal resistor coil and found none local myself either.

 

I didn't try Baxters. I always forget they exist

 

I've tried everything again today. And I tried vacuum gauge found to be about 5 inches vacuum not good. Disconnected pcv and got vacuum straight from intake and got 15 inches. Tried swapping old coil no change and old condenser no change.

Running out of ideas I searched my parts pile and found a Carter YF I don't even know what it's off of I've had it on a shelf for years. Probably from the swap meet. Sprayed it off with carb clean and installed it at least looking for a change to my surging idle problem to maybe narrow it down to carb problem and it runs PERFECTLY.

I'd almost leave the carb on but the top isn't the flared design to fit my oil bath air horn it is smooth. But at least I know I have a carb proble

 

When running when i look down the bore of the carb i can see small intermittent dribbles of fuel coming out the small hole next to the check ball and weight location.

Diaphragm is new and I just disassembled and inspected diaphram and carb again watching a YouTube video from mikes carburetor on this exact carb. Everything appears right but the only thing I found is sometimes the needle for the float sometimes kicks sideways off the bent lip of the float. Maybe my problem? Doesn't seem like jeep is flooding but maybe fuel is getting into a vent etc where it isn't supposed to? And into the engine Throwing things off?

 

I thought I would try disconnecting fuel supply line at carb and run it just with what was already in the carb bowl.

IT RAN PERFECT. NO ISSUES

I would think this means I was dealing with a flooding issue. Either float or float valve or fuel pressure. Or float adjustment.

I removed the brand new float valve from the kaiserwillys.com master kit I just bought and installed and compared it to the "other" spare carb I had tried and there was a huge difference in the float valve. The new one had a long straw built onto the end of it and was spring loaded but solid brass tip.

The other old spare yf carb had no straw on it and a viton tip on spring loaded tip. So I installed old valve into otherwise rebuilt carb and runs nearly perfect only slight occasional miss but still low on vacuum with pcv hooked up about 7 inches and with pcv bypassed have 20 inches so probably time to clean the pcv?

 

I'd upload pics but I can never get them small enough for max 1 mb as site wants?

 

Have you tried using a 'T' fitting with a barbed fitting for the vacuum gauge in line with the PCV? The float setting differs from a Viton-tipped needle to a solid metal needle. Consult the spec sheet that should have come with the kit. As to the possibility of the needle being cocked in the seat, look at the tab on the float that contacts the needle. If there is a divot in that tab it must be removed with crocus cloth.