What Did You Do To Your Jeep Today?

I don't know about late 70's Jeep D30 disks or Brennan's Suzuki disks, but they do not quite clear the 1/2-ton early 70's Chevy disks.

I just pulled the spare off the '69 and stuck it on the CJ2 project that has the common Chevy front disk conversion on a D30. (Well, sort of.... It's a D44 pumpkin with narrow track D30 tubes stuck in it. It's D30 where it matters for this discussion.)

Said disks:


Ignore the tack-welds on the wheels studs. I didn't have the right studs and needed to get the thing rolling so I could move. The wheels do sit flat on the hub.

The Summit steel wheel torques up but rubs a tiny bit on the rim dip. It rubs so minimally, you can still turn the wheel. See the line here:


Here's what's hitting:


I suspect with a tiny bit of grinding you could make it clear. 1/8" or 1/4" spacers would also solve the problem. I'm guessing these are the bulkiest disk setup, so it's not unlikey Jeep calipers or Brennan's Suzuki stuff would clear with no issues.

Interestingly the 15x7 white spokes that normally hold the CJ2 up are shaped differently and have plenty of room. At least 1/2":

 

I have a CJ5 disc brake 30 sitting by my garage. I'd try one of my 15x8 wheels on it but since I don't really know what brand they are it's kind of a moot point.

 

So today I went out and just stared at my Jeep for about 30 minutes. Anyone ever have those days? I have several things I want to change but I have a lot going on around the house and farm

 

Yes and usually have a pen and pad to make lists.

 

All the time , did do something however, just didn't feel like towing the jeep to a muffler shop, so picked up a couple of headman reducers, some really cheap AP mufflers, and a couple of really short 90's. Total was just over $100.00, if the gas smell is just too much to handle, I should at least have it running so I can drive it to a shop and get a real exhaust put on. Got them welded up, ready to go on next time I get a free moment!

 

Thanks Fireball
I'm trying to figure out exactly what I'm goin to do with the green B. I'm planning to change to a D30 and disc brakes from a late 70's jeep. May have to use spacers until I get a better idea what I need. I really don't want to buy a set of wheels.
I do have a set of Chevy mounts like those.

 

Had a little time today, so I tried fitting my new gas tank. Looks like it will fit very well with a tiny bit of trimming on the flange near the mount bolt holes. This tank is made by Spectra Was thinking about adding a drain plug to the bottom to aid in any future clean outs. Any suggestions?

 

Finally got both rear quarters done, but before I can install them I need to put the side skins on, ...... and then I need new angle around the tail gate. BUT, my daughter said that I had done things for her for years, and it was about time somebody did something for me. ....... so she bought my whole wish list on amazon, .....



Now more projects

 

I have one also. No way I will ever buy everything and it may not be exactly what I want. It is more as a reference.

 

If you place the drain on the bottom, as opposed to side or front, I'd try to make it as flush as possible. I know my luck, bad.

Good luck, Ron

 

My tank does have a little thin skid plate under it about 2 inches lower than the tank bottom itself. I was thinking I might just make a about a 2 inch hole in the skid plate to access the drain plug. I was thinking about one of those '' add a drain plug" setups like you see folks installing in automatic trans fluid pans. Would the tank be too thin to support it? Any thoughts?

 

Good grief.

Yep, I have a list so people can do something for birthday and Christmas. That's how I got my transmission rebuild kit, body mounts, rear locker...

 

I had to go look that up. I would braze a brass 3/8x1/4 adapter in it with 1/4" plug wherever it drain the best and clear the skid plate. With anything that
sticks through the tank like that, it will not drain completely.

 

Rebuilt the Carb and gave the jeep a wash.

 

I think that would work, if not you increase the thickness of the tank. Possibly brazing another small piece of steel or washer. Ron

 

That's a good idea. I will try my brazing technique on my old tank first to see if I can do it ok. not had a lot of pratice brazing thin material. I would hate to burn a hole in my new tank I might not be able to repair.

 

I'll bet that your new tank is about the same gauge as a transmission pan .I would put the Add-A- Drain in the lowest most front corner. That's how mine is . This way , you don't have to mess with the skid plate & you should have clear access to it.

 

....... Got my radiator repaired & I got it back in . $100 bucks , total on something I could not repair.
As far as the backfiring & running Rich problem, I did a compression check & it read 120 PSI on all 6 cylinders, that's a good thing. I cleaned the air filter & the TBI, replaced plugs & wires . Found # 6 to be cracked & arcing .Thought for sure that was the culprit but We'll see. The injectors, wiring harness, & Chip were new stock ~ 1000 miles ago. Adjusted the IAC, Cam Sensor, & TPS to specs.
I have a friend that is a high end Mercedes Tech coming over tomorrow. He's gonna maybe smoke test it & start diagnostics to finally get to the root of this . Wish me success , Please.

 

Brazing on a new tank isn one thing, but brazing on a tank that has had gas is a little scary....