t-case is back in

Finally finished rebuilding the d18 and got it back in and buttoned up last night. Went for a test drive and guess what? It's quiet!
Last summer when it was real loud I thought it was the (SM420) trans so didn't worry about it until I heard the sound of teeth breaking off of gears - boy that's not a pretty sight. Check your intermediate shaft now!
Got nearly all parts from Herm. Got a free donor to convert to twin stick which I can tell already is THE way to go.
Could never have done the rebuild without all the help I found here.
And, it's leaking from where the speedo cable screws on? New speedo cable and it's on a tight as I can turn it with fingers. Any advice?


1970 CJ-5, 225 V-6, headers, HEI, PS, D30 Fr, 44 Rr, ARB's, SM420 w/ Novak, D18 single stick, 33" TSL Radials, Ramsey REP 5000, Sky Jacker Soft Ride,

 

My freshly rebuilt tc leaks there too.

 

In my 300 there was a seal on the speedo shaft, had to pull the fitting the calble attaches to then remove the shaft. That seal was trashed and I found an O-ring that would fit. D-20s may be significantly different.
I can't be sure that worked on mine since I have so many other issues it isn't driveable.

 

It's just odd that it's leaking there now but didn't before - I didn't really change anything that I would think would make a difference. I will research the seal idea before I remove the fitting.
Lynn - I don't think it's the threads as the cable attaches more like a flare fitting so that the "nut" just holds it on. I think it's leaking out from the center hole in the back of the "nut" where the cable goes through it. Maybe an o-ring there would help? (inside the "nut"). I will take another look.

 

Don't mean to hijack this thread but while we are on the subject of rebuilding, my case is going to be needing it soon. Rebuilding it myself is a little beyond the skill level at the moment so I was just going to yank the case along with the tranny, and send it to Herm next winter. I was eyeballing his overdrives, twin stick conversion and new drum brake assembly. Might as well get it all done at once and done right. Right? Yea, I ain't gonna eat nothing but noodles for the next six months after I get it back but what do you guys think?

 

I wanted to do the same, but the cost of shipping and paying out all the labor convinced me to do it myself. It really is not that difficult. I spent far more time cleaning and painting the tranny and tc than actually doing the assembly. Not much skill required at all. I had never even seen the inside of either before doing it myself. The instructions available for both rebuilds are more than adequate. Removing, cleaning, and re-installing were way more work.

 

Robo,
Herm could do it - that's for sure. Due to shipping you may also consider having a local shop do it but you first need to make sure that will pay attention to a few details, ie make sure they have the experience to do it right. That's one of the advantages of doing your own - you can take your time and make sure it is correct. Read Rick Sivers (spelling?) guide a few times & that will help even if you don't do the work yourself.

You may also consider R&P or Nickmil as they are both closer to you then Herm.

 

I agree with Mike, it is not that hard to rebuild, it will take more time cleaning and painting than anything. Here are a couple of suggestions, fill out your profile so we know where you're located, a member may live close enough to help with the rebuild for a bucket of chicken and a . Another is to contact Nickmill he has the twins stick conversions also, thats where I got mine, I think it was $65. You can get a rebuild kit from Novak or Herm for the dana18 and if you can turn a wrench and can follow directions there are plenty of people here to help and several write ups on the net that are extremely helpful, photographs and all, a good service manual would also help. It took me about 4 hours to take mine out the 1st time, about 8 hours to clean and paint it and about 5 hours to rebuild and reassemble. It took about 2 hours to put the twin stick kit in about 10 years after I rebuilt it the 1st time. The only real tools you need are basic wrenches and a few pieces of PVC, aluminum or wooden dowels to assist in putting the shafts back in, along with a jar of vasoline or wheelbearing grease, access to a press or some means of pressing a couple of seals in the cases and a set of Eaton style snap ring pliers, not necessary but very very helpful with the C-clips inside the transfer case, a drop indicator and a mag base for setting bearing preload. You can get one of these at Harbor freight for $20 or the flea market is also a good place for a used one. They are very straight forward and not as difficult as people think!

 

Done! Heh, I will give up a bathtub full of Ostrich if any one in close proximity can help me thru the hard stuff.

 

Hey guys on a serious note... I will attempt the rebuild, and if at worse case manage to screw things up, I can still send it out. 8)