Re-gearing Axles

I'm trying to get geared up to re-gear my axles and this is not familiar territory. I ruined the temper on my 5.38:1 rear gears... they got a little hot while flat towed. I plan on switching both front and rear to 4.27:1 and shelving my overdrive.

I already have the 4.27 gears on hand for the front d25 and rear tapered 44. I have a spare carrier or two if the heat would be a concern with that. The clamshell puller is on it's way.
I have access to a press but might buy a small one (not sure how small is too small) I've read the fsm till it blurs together.

Front axle parts... my kingpins and out are all recently rebuilt with the 4 wheel disk conversion. so for the front I am looking at new:
Shims (pinion and carrier)
Bearings (pinion and carrier)
Seals (pinion and inner?
Ring gear bolts?
It already has a lube locker and heavy cover, what am I missing (lockers are silly expensive so this is strictly a cheap gear swap to match the rear)

Then on the rear...
Shims (pinion and carrier)
Bearings (pinion, carrier, and semi float wheel bearings)
Seals (pinion, inner, outer)
Speedometer gears...
I have Cotter pins for the flanges,

Is there any big reason not to re-use pinion nuts?
Soo many questions you'd think I was new here .

 

Prussian Blue. I like a mix of Prussian and zink oxide (white nose cream). It gives better contrast.
A pry bar or large screwdriver to preload the carrier.
Be ready to replace the pinion yoke. If there is excessive wear that can't be dressed, you may need to sleeve or replace it.
Air and a good 1/2" drive impact will greatly aid with bearing pulling.
You don't need a press. A healthy brass/aluminum drift and a BFH will drive all your bearings. I regularly used a large blunt tip on an air hammer to rattle on bearings.
Some folks like a dial indicator and magnetic based stand to check the backlash. If they are used gears, the backlash isn't really as important as the picture.
A hub puller if you're removing the rear hubs.
Insure you mark the bearing caps to insure they go back on the same journal and in the same orientation.
As with any project, be prepared for mission creep. Leaky wheel cylinders, bad axle bearings or seals. etc.........

You can reuse the pinion nuts and ring gear bolts. For self locking pinion nuts, I like to swedge the top with a BFH prior to the final install.

 

To add to all that great advice, pay attention to the order of things when you take it apart. What side of the bearings the shims go on and the like. Don't forget to install the slinger on the pinion before pounding in the seal and torquing the yoke. Not that I've ever made that mistake.....

Any reason you're not keeping the overdrive? The 4.3 should still be fine with the OD and 4.27 gears.

 

The sm465 2nd gear with 4.27 is the same FDR as a t90 1st with 5.38, my overdrive housing is cracked, and with the t90 I drive with just 2nd and 3rd then shift to 3rd overdrive. 3rd overdrive still is not fast enough for any length of time on I-70 or the local 4 lanes, even with the m416 or the pop-up in tow.

 

The pinion nut is a lock nut and is supposed to be replaced after getting removed because the swage wont hold as good as a new nut. I think the ring gear bolts are supposed to be replaced as well. The pinion nut and ring gear bolts are cheap and usually come in minor and major install kits so theres no reason yo not replace them.

 

Good point.
The usual way to replace the gears is to do a comparison of the old and new pinion depth settings (if the new set is Dana) and make an initial adjustment on the pinion shim pack.
Reinstall the old carrier shims on the same side they came off.
Be very careful on the first set up that you don't drive the ring gear into the pinion (carrier spacing off).
Once you get your carrier installed, you may have to do an initial carrier adjustment to get the backlash close.
Don't worry about the pinion preload till you get the picture you want, then set it. The bearings only need to be zero lash for set up.
When you run your picture, really preload the carrier. This will give a clearer "wipe" which makes the picture easier to see.
Expect the backlash to be greater than spec on used gears. Don't try to close it up, just get the best picture you can and call it good.

Oh, and, don't install the pinion seal till you have the gears set (been there done that).

 

This vevor spreader works well, and with it's free shipping it is cheaper than sending a loaner back and forth through the mail.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2557660504...uid=g9y3pk_rtsq&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

This made my last install much easier that previous gear set-ups. A magnetic base and indicator are help full as well.

 

Honestly I like the yellow stuff better.. much easier to read than blue..

 

I'm not too worried about the spreader, didn’t have any issues with the rear locker install.
plan is to go to a buddy's garage with lift and press, I also have a former mechanic at work willing to oversee and bring specialty tools, there are some things she knows exactly where they are and others that she thinks she still has but it's easier for me to get my own. (clamshell puller). She's also not concerned about the spreader. Between the three of us it should be fine.

 

Do you have a link?
I've heard people just using hobby lobby paint.

 

As far as install kits go, who has the goods these days, some have shims and all but the bearings are from some place I've never heard of.

 

This marking compound is included with any master R&P kit at Summit.
Motive Gear GMC1 Motive Gear Ring and Pinion Marking Compound | Summit Racing

 

I'll look for it, I wish it was in the tech index.