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Epoxy Paint?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Boyink, Dec 27, 2006.

  1. Dec 27, 2006
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    I was talking one of my great-uncles at Christmas - he's a painter who is also building a CJ5. He said he used some sort of "floor epoxy" paint inside his tub.

    Any thoughts on that?

    I got a sample of the smooth Durabak stuff, and wasn't impressed -- it was easily scuffed/scratched with a spare machine screw I had in my desk drawer.

    If it's going to scratch that easily I might as well just paint the inside of SSDutch with more common paint.

    I need something that:
    • Can be brushed on
    • Can be color-matched
    • Is highly durable
     
  2. Dec 27, 2006
    jd7

    jd7 Sponsor

    Nacogdoches,Texas
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    x2
    I have....not pretty unless you want the "woodgrain" look
     
  3. Dec 27, 2006
    Rondog

    Rondog just hangin' out

    Parker, CO
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    I think Boyink just went through the special hell of removing some Rhino lining or something similar, so I doubt he'll want to go back to it.
     
  4. Dec 27, 2006
    Grandpot

    Grandpot Old Narc

    South Carolina
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    Jul 4, 2006
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    57
    I just finished my frame with Rust Bullet. It's tough, goes on thick, can be applied with a brush, and is really tough. It will not be affected by light like POR-15. It's expensive and only comes in silver. Rust Bullet does offer some top coatings, but they are not necessary.
     
  5. Dec 27, 2006
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    I will not be putting in any kind of bedliner -- budget or no (but in this case, yes) -- hence why I didn't ask about them. I'm on about hour 10 of wirewheeling the Durabak that the previous owner put in and still have some to go.

    I don't want a black interior, and I don't want anything with any kind of roughness to it -- I want to be able to sweep out the interior.

    I can't see why a paint shop wouldn't be able to color match floor epoxy to an automotive paint?
     
  6. Dec 27, 2006
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    POR isn't an option - it's inherently black and would have to be topcoated in this case anyway.

    I have it on my trailer and while it seems to be holding against the rust, the chassis black topcoat oxidizes like crazy - can't even hitch up the thing without getting my hands all black.
     
  7. Dec 27, 2006
    coby61

    coby61 Stupidiotic Member

    Prunedale CA
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    Mar 10, 2004
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    388
    Mike. do a search for marine epoxy coatings. A buddy of mine in TN tinted some to redo the interior of his boat a few years ago. I remember droping hammers and wrenches in the engine bay and not scuffing it.
     
  8. Dec 27, 2006
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    More progess today - most of the area under the driver's seat. I have to work in small bites - just can't stand it any longer.
     
  9. Dec 27, 2006
    green71jeep

    green71jeep work in progress

    Riegelsville Pa
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    Por 15 also makes a paint called hardnose comes in all kinds of colors it is supposed to be bullet proof stuff ,like all there poducts it maybe something to look into.
     
  10. Dec 27, 2006
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    I was just looking at those. Might be an option. I'm not thrilled with either red - although it's tough to know from a web-based paint chip that probably isn't that accurate.

    Almost kinda like the dark yellow:

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Dec 27, 2006
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    Just an idea Mike, how about painting the inside of the tub whatever color you want, and then coating it with rattle-can "Chip Guard"? That's the stuff some newer cars have on it down low on the doors & quarters that has a smooth (compared to Rhino) surface yet it allows the color to show through. You can wax it & it will wear like any other auto surface.

    As far as a good non-scratch surface, I think you might be looking for the holy grail. Have you considered maybe making some nice-looking wooden slats for the bed and then a couple of sheepy rubber floor mats for the front, cut from some hardware-store black vinyl floor runner material?

    Or how about something like this:

    [​IMG]

    This stuff comes in all kinds of colors and you cut it to fit. Once a year or so you lift it out in one piece and scrub out the mud & muck.

    http://www.dri-dek.com
     
  12. Dec 27, 2006
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    Mike, can't comment on the epoxy floor enamel but the secret to putting paint on with a brush is to heat it up, put the paint can in a pan of water & bring to a low simmer on your coleman stove. Works o.k. with a brush, works better with a roller. With regular paint you have to add a little thinner now & then to keep it from getting too thick. With epoxy it could play hell with the setup time. :cry:

    H.
     
  13. Dec 27, 2006
    fourtrail

    fourtrail Built not Bought

    Carlinville,...
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    If you can, spray dupont emmron on the floor. It is extremely scratch/chip resistant. Can be color matched to any other paint for the outside. You would need to clear coat it to get a shiny finish, but shouldn't be needed for a floor.
     
  14. Dec 27, 2006
    w3srl

    w3srl All-around swell dude Staff Member

    Port Orange, FL
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    Just a side note: if you go the Imron route Mike, make sure you have the right respirator for the job, a dust mask or particulate mask won't cut it. Exposure to the polyurethane fumes from Imron and similar paints can be FATAL. YMMV. :)
     
  15. Dec 28, 2006
    captain cj

    captain cj Member

    Crystal Beach...
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    x2 on the correct resperator I have gotten sick from this myself. Also Imron is not a base coat clear coat it is a one step no clear coat is required.
     
  16. Dec 28, 2006
    jd7

    jd7 Sponsor

    Nacogdoches,Texas
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    now that's a useful tip
     
  17. Dec 28, 2006
    Boyink

    Boyink Super Moderator Staff Member

    Tulsa, OK
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    I want this done before spring and I don't want to go through the hassle of building a paint booth. The Jeep is also not moveable at this point to take it somewhere. I also want to be able to brush on future touch-ups.

    After reading around more on the epoxy I'm not that thrilled with it either.

    The POR Hardnose stuff might be the way to go. I'm going to see if they have actual color samples.

    Thanks Howard - haven't heard that one before.
     
  18. Dec 28, 2006
    SIDSCJ

    SIDSCJ Jeep addict

    14th State
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    Years ago there was a local "bodyman" who would do overall paint jobs for $4-500. He'd put a gallon of acrylic enamel on the top of his woodstove:rofl: and heat it up right before spraying. He'd run around the car like a madman to get it to lay down before it started to set up! Sold it as a " Baked Enamel finish". Not that I would recommend it foe your application though. I'd take a day and visit a few local bodyshops and bend their ears as to what they use and recommend. They're the guys with the most experience and knowledge on this stuff, they do it for a living. Not saying that anyone here doesn't. If you're down to bare metal on your floors I'd personally use an epoxy primer and finish with a topcoat. Just try and go with a "system", most manufacturers will blame the other guys products if you mix and match products and end up with a component failure or incompatibility.
     
  19. Dec 28, 2006
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    I'm not saying I recommend Imron, but FWIW it can be brushed on with good results.
     
  20. Dec 28, 2006
    jd7

    jd7 Sponsor

    Nacogdoches,Texas
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    any special technique in doing so Glenn?
     
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