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Thickness of floor pan

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Strider380, Jun 4, 2007.

  1. Strider380

    Strider380 Can I have a zip tie?

    I've searched long and hard on replacing floor panels and what gauge to use, but could only find info on store bought, manufactured floor pans. I'm just gonna cut the existing panels out, leave a lip, and weld some flat sheet metal down. What is the ideal thickness to use? I have a ton of thin sheet metal that is great for typical body panels, but I am sure the thicker the floor pan, the longer it will last. I am only replacing them because the thin metal rotted out, but the thicker metal is still great. (My existing floor panels are a few pieces hacked together.)

    I really want to double the sheet metal I have, but I'd imagine that would turn into a rust trap.

    Any opinions?
     
  2. I used 16 ga. for my floors.
     
  3. nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Most of the sheet metal on early CJ's and Flattie's are 18 gauge. Plenty thick IMHO. Any thicker and it gets real hard to work with unless you have lots of special tools. The key is making sure the supports underneath are in good shape and solidly mounted to the sheet metal for support. Nickmil
     
  4. Strider380

    Strider380 Can I have a zip tie?

    So then metal 1/16" is plenty?

    I am rebuilding all the hat channels and plan on possibly adding a few extra in.
     
    Last edited: Jun 4, 2007
  5. Huntman

    Huntman HIGH ROLLER

    i used 1x2 tubing to make my hat channels and like 14 gauge steel to make my pans. worked well!!
     
  6. Strider380

    Strider380 Can I have a zip tie?

    Alright, sounds good. Please excuse my lack of knowledge on metalworking, but should I seam the floor pans or can I just tack em in good and use seam sealer? or both? My old ones had a full bead on the front and rear, and screws on the sides.
     
  7. I used full bead on the seams and the sides. Then ground the welds smooth. MIG.
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2007