2 -134F heads - with differances - what to do?

ok pics will be here shortly, those of you who know me are aware of the oil problem I had with the first engine and how the problem ended up scoring the crank, so I set out to do a complet overhaul. Well I scored a running F - head that will get me moving sooner than the bank account would allow with the overhaul plan, but, there are always buts.

As for the generator and the fuel/vacume pump, they are easy - swap in my alternator and the new fuel pump, DONE

now for the buts... For clarity, I will call the failed engine the "old one" and the one I am replacing it with, the "new one"

the exhaust valve cover.
on the old one, there was two bolts holding it on, the right bolt held the pivot for the carb linkage, the left was a large washer and a bolt.

these same two bolts on the new one, the right is the same, but in the picture below, is some type of vacume vent incorperated in the left one - the tubes lead directly to the vacume on the intake manifold. is this necessary? - or can i use the washer and seal from the old one?


valve cover, dip stick tube
here are the old ones

what I am atemptin to show, is the fact that the oil fil tube (dip stick tube) has one tube coming off of it and so does the valve cover. The valve cover was connected to the PVC valve which was screwed into the intake manifold. the tube on the oil fill tube was connected to the air cleaner.

on the new engine, things are a bit different
two tubes on the dip stick, oil fill tube


different looking vent from the valve cover


the valve cover connects to the oil fill tube


Soooooo..

what should I do about the routing of the hoses? I am thinking everyting goes through the PVC???

not too sure and the search function hasn't helped, I truley believe that part of my problem with the first engine was related to the lack of crank case venting

 

The valve side cover in your Exhaust valve cover pic shows the early style PCV valve , I had the same set up on mine and converted it to the later PCV routing.

Use the filler tube with one outlet and connect it to the air cleaner.

Use the Intake valve cover pan with the Separator ( funnel looking thing with one outlet )

Use the Exhaust valve cover with two holes and keep your old PCV valve and tubing, Get a Car Quest V115 PCV valve ( or you can clean and reuse the older one that is on its side right now ) and install it at the manifold and run a hose from it to the outlet of the separator on top of the valve cover.

This will give you proper PCV function in the later model routing method, Unless you still need vacuum to the wipers, Then you may have to stay with the older system routing method that also tied into the dual fuel/wiper vacuum pump.

 

I just went through half of the same thing. It appears that some F-heads had the PCV contraption mounted on the exhaust valve cover under the manifold. Others, (like mine) have the PCV going right into the intake manifold. Now....you said that the tube from the oil filler on the valve cover was going to the air cleaner? That one should actually go to the PCV so that the condensation and crank case fumes/gases can vent from the manifold back into the intake to get burnt up. I got alot of help on this topic earlier today from Brian P....look up my post on "weird engine vacuum routing" to see the whole conversation, and an explanation of how this PCV system works. That should explain what was going on with your original engine. As for if you can convert from one system to the other: just hold tight for an F-head expert to help you out. I would think that you could, but I would take advice from someone with more F-head experience than me if I were you.

 

looking for it now

 

funny - I told my wife the origonal post would take longer to make than actually getting an answer the quetion to begin with - thank you! - SEPARATOR - WHO'D A THUNK IT? learnin somethin new every day

forgot to add - electric wipers here- no need for additional vacume on fuel pump, or the old style routing

 

The " Separator " prevents excessive oil splash from the valve train from being pulled into the intake manifold, The area volume inside the funnel looking arrangement breaks up the airflow causing the oil splash to fall out of the airstream.

 

If you have not changed the PCV system yet you can use what is present on your “new” engine.

The open tube on your oil dipstick tube is the air inlet. Connect this to a filtered air source, originally this would have been the oil bath air cleaner. Some of the air will travel down the dipstick tube and some through the hose to the intake valve cover and down into the crankcase. The air will exit the crankcase at the bell shaped fitting on the exhaust valve cover, travel through the PCV valve and on to the vacuum fitting at the intake plenum. Cap your unused opening where there used to be line going to the combination fuel and vacuum pump. There should be a steel line routed around the front of the engine to the vacuum fitting on the head below the carb.

Here is an illustration on the 3B page that has the crankcase ventilation air path shown. Notice there is no fitting on the intake valve cover but the air flow arrows are there as if the diagram was copied from another and changed. A friend of mine had several F heads from M38A1’s that I believe have the double tube openings on the dipstick tube.

http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Photos/Tech/PCV/CrankcaseVentilation.jpg

Also, I can’t tell for sure from the picture but I think the PCV valve is in backwards.

Here is how it should be installed.

http://www.film.queensu.ca/CJ3B/Engine/Rebuild8.html

By the way the original valve is serviceable. It screws apart and the internal plunger and spring can be cleaned. No need to buy a new one!