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Frame boxing?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Fisherman, Nov 10, 2008.

  1. Fisherman

    Fisherman Member

    I have been told early cj-6 frames are weak. I plan to box in the channel portions of my frame. I have been told I need to use the same thickness of material for this, 3/16" I believe. Any thoughts on this? I have a bunch of 1/4" stock I could use and wouldn't have to buy any 3/16" stock. If I go with the thicker material I will have more material to drill and tap. I would appreciate your thoughts. Thank You
     
  2. jeep2003

    jeep2003 Well-Known Member

    Im sure you wont have any adverse effects with the thicker material. One thing iv experienced when boxing frames is you need to be mindfull of where you end your box because the stress will be transferd to the unboxed portions of the frame. I believe cutting a half circle out of the end of the boxes helps with that
     
  3. sparky

    sparky Sandgroper Staff Member Founder

  4. Fisherman

    Fisherman Member

    Thank You, good information.
     
  5. rdsar2k

    rdsar2k New Member

    The frame of the M38a1 (military CJ5) is boxed from the front bumper ending behind the rear (front spring) spring mount. Also they have a factory spring reversal.
    My M170 (Military CJ6) is the same.
     
  6. MHaver

    MHaver When people get bored

    When i boxed my frame, i boxed the rear most frame, from the spring hangers back to the bumper, and the front of the frame horns where the frame had cracked just above the very front spring mounts. As mentioned earlier, boxing the frame will place stress on other parts of the drive train, plus, these frames were designed to flex alittle. See my bumper thread in the Fab Forum to see how i did mine.
    1/4 " would work fine, i used 3/16 because i had to purchase it, so i stayed with the factory size. But remember, you will want to cut holes in your boxing plates so moisture can escape, otherwise your frame will rot similar to later model cj7's