Voltage Regulator, or lack of, question

Started having problems with my heep, lights, all electrical started flickering. Volt gauge was bouncing all over the place. First place I thought to look was the regulator. But I can't seem to find one, anywhere. PO said that he rewired the Jeep, not a lot of excess wiring, looks clean, not crispy, still flexible. Is NOT having a voltage regulator an issue? Where else should I be looking to resolve this problem? Is it possible that this is just a bad ground wire somewhere? Yes, I am already planning on getting it rewired, more than likely go with Painless. Thanks in advance for any and all help.

 

One possibility is that the alternator has been replaced with one that has an internal regulator. With your problems, as you mentioned a bad ground is a possibility, as well as a loose wire, bad connections one or more bad diodes n the alternator or a off and on short .

 

Got a pic of the alternator? Look like this?

 

Yep, that looks like mine.

 

Then its a delco 10si either a 3 or 1 wire version. The regulator is internal in both, a good parts store should be able to get you a new one.

 

I would probably have the charging system checked at one of the discount places first and make sure your gauge isn't lying to you.

Jeep volt gauges are famous (or infamous) for lying,
And it might be such a thing as a bad ground, bad battery loose wires or corroded/broken wires at the plug.

You should also check to see if the conversion to the new alternator included a FUSEABLE LINK.

Fusible link is about $5, and takes about 5 minutes to install, and it's EASY to put in, and will save your vehicle from burning down... It's a SAFETY ISSUE...

Fusible link goes in where the large wire on the back of the alternator connects to the starter relay... Battery cable side.

You simply connect the the fusible link to the Larger alternator wire,
Then connect the large ring terminal end of the fusible link to the starter relay- Battery cable side and you are done!

This protects the wire going to the alternator in case it gets pinched, up against the exhaust, or gets grounded out in some other with.

Without the fusible link in place, a 10 Ga. wire grounding out WILL START A FIRE!

Simple, cheap, easy to install and VERY effective safety protection for you vehicle.

 

if you do not hook up the sense wire through the bulb in the spedo gauge and ing, it will NOT charge/...... I replaced my little 40amp alt with a new 3 wire 80 amp unit.. now i can turn on the lights and stereo at the same time!!

 

Actually, you have that wrong...

The 'Excite' wire goes though a resistor,
Sometimes it's a 'Amps' or 'Charging' light bulb for resistance,
Other times it's a resistor wire at the two wire plug.

The 'Excite' circuit is the #1 or 'R' Terminal, (smaller wire) in the two wire plug.
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The 'Sense' or 'Sample' wire is the #2 wire, almost always 'Red' and is larger than the 'Excite' wire.

This wire should DIRECTLY SAMPLE BATTERY VOLTAGE at the first SAFE opportunity.

Since hooking ANY wires to the battery positive terminal is a BAD IDEA,
In the case if the Delco SI Series alternators,
You can sample battery/line voltage at the back of the alternator on the 'Bat' terminal,

This has a DIODE (Diode = A 1-way electrical gate 'Valve')
Instead of a 'Resistor' like bulb or resistor wire at the plug terminal...

And this diagram shows the 'Sample' wire connected to 12 volt 'Bat' source on the back of the alternator...



This diagram also shows an expedient way to wire the 'Excite' line so it's swtiched 'On & Off' with the ignition switch.
The Diode makes this possible.

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Or you can run that red 'Sense' or 'Sample' wire up to the starter relay, large battery terminal connection for a more accurate read of the battery.

If you do run the 'Sense' wire to the starter relay,
You *SHOULD* use a FUSIBLE LINK on that line also...
To protect it from grounding since it's connected directly to an non-fused 12 volt source.

In this diagram, you would need *EITHER* the 'Idiot Light',
*OR*...
The diode shown... NOT BOTH...



------------------------------------------

This is a picture of a plug with the diode attached...
Just make sure you have the 'Stripe' on the diode facing the alternator plug!
If you put it in backwards, your alternator won't charge at low speed and the engine might run on after you turn the key off!



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Notice the use of FUSIBLE LINKS in both diagrams to protect the 'Hot' wires to the alternator!

 

It sounds more like a loose electrical connection somewhere rather than an alternator voltage regulator issue. I don't know what year your Jeep is, but it probably came originally with a Delco 10SI, which has an internal regulator. Find a good schematic for your Jeep, and use it to isolate the portion of wiring with components that are showing the symptoms. If it is ALL electrical, like you mention, then I'd start with battery power and ground cable connections, power connections at the starter solenoid, and the firewall bulkhead connector.