More saginaw frame ?'s

ANYONE......
Alright, I welded up the frame and made the plates to box the frame. I'm not sure where the spacers go because I haven't fabbed a mount for the sag. box yet. Do I wait to weld the plates to box the frame until I know where to put the pipe spacers? Or do I weld now? Check out the picture... do I put the spacers in where the arrows are, or do I wait to fab a plate for the sag. box and find out exactly where to put them? Help......

 

the spacers go where the bolts will go through. or at least thats where mine are going to go.

 

Hi Quaggy, the procedure I used is as follows:
I tacked my plates in temporarily. Next, I found the position I wanted the Saginaw box to be in and used a couple of clamps to temporarily hold it in place (that was the hardest part IMO). Next, I marked and drilled the bolt holes in the plate using the Saginaw box (still in place with the clamps) as a reference. After checking to make sure the holes were definitely in the correct location, I removed the plate from the frame and welded the "inner frame" spacers very carefully to the back of the plate. I then test fitted and tacked the plate with the spacers once again. Next, I used the holes and inner frame spacers as a drilling guide so the bolt holes would be in the correct place on the frame. I then put the box back into place and put all bolts in to make 100% certain that the plate was set up correctly. Finally, I welded the plate to the frame to stay.

At first it seemed ridiculous how many times the plate and steering box was put on and taken off but when it all was done, I was really happy about how it turned out.

Good luck!

 

Well I do it slightly different, I made the frame enclosures to fit on the side of the frame and weld down the top and bottom edge, the reason I did this was so I could clamp the enclosure into place, clamp the steering box over the top of the enclosure and then transfer the bolt holts thru all of it at once, then when you take it all off you can tack weld the spacers to the frame enclosure and then weld it in place on the frame, then you can bolt the steering box to the mount and bolt it all thru the enclosure and frame and then weld the steering box mount plate to the frame and enclosure, no pulling it off and breaking welds and it all lines up clean and neat.

 

mruta is right.......I forgot about that
tack them in, fab your mount,and so on and so on.........
you get the picture
measure twice, cut once !!!!!

 

Thanks for the fast response! I guess then the next thing I have to do is fab the mounting plate for the box to mock up to the frame. Then I need to figure out how to get the steering rod attached to the box so I can get an idea of where to mount it. Any suggestions on the best way to do that? See picture. Then I think I'll have to cut part of the front cross member out for the steering rod to clear.... does that sound right? It doesn't seem to fit right now.

 

you need a rag/tire type flanged coupler; used on Wagoneers, FSJs
would clamp on the box end
would bolt to the lower steering shaft end
2 different sizes...one for manual, one for power

 

Quaggy, that looks like the steering shaft from a postal jeep, When you cut the end off take it to a machine shop and have them mill 2 flats opposite each other to fit a Borgeson DD style universal joint (Borgeson joints are mix and match so you can have a different fitting on each end 3/4 DD on one end and 3/4-36 spline on the other end), the distance is .550 across the 2 flats. You don't necessarily have to cut into the crossmember, it depends on where you locate the box, some guys locate it higher than others, mine will go under the crossmember just enough to clear the u-joint.

 

Mike: That's what my Hot Rod builder friend did on mine. A Flaming River joint on top next to the column and a Borgeson next to the box. He didn't charge me for the Borgeson because he had a like now one laying around. The only problem was it was splined on BOTH sides. No Problem--he just welded it to the DD shaft! He said if I ever had to remove the shaft, there was enough play in both ends to slide it off. That's how he put it on. Can't complain I guess, it's almost a $50 u-joint.

 

jpflat2a, thanks for the info. Although, I just went out and mocked things up without the mounting plate and I think I will have to cut off the end of the steering shaft because it will be too long.

Mcruff, you're right it is from a DJ. If I take the shaft in to a machine shop with your post, will they know what to do because I'm not sure what you are talking about? I'll leave the machining to the professionals. After a quick look and taking into consideration that I'll have to cut the shaft, it looks like the shaft will fit under the crossmember with a universal joint if I am careful. Where do I get the Borgeson type? Will a car parts place have them?

Thanks for the help.

 

David: You can use a Flaming River, they just cost more and look prettier!

http://www.flaming-river.com/joint1.htm

 

It'll be under the jeep, so I wouldn't be able to see my money at work. What's the cost difference between the two?

 

I think 10-12 bucks.

 

Not bad. Can I get either one at an auto parts place or will I have to order one?

Also, Mcruff, do you have any pictures of your conversion under the front crossmember?

 

hmm funny thing is i am tossing my rag joint. it wont fit with the crossmember, AKA i got to make a smaller hole in it. so where can we get a flameing rivers ujoint? i will take my stuff up to the shop and have them make me a spudshaft since i noticed they have them in the stock car products catalog so that means i have the program at work.

 

If I remember right flaming river does not actually make the joints, they sell Polished Borgeson units. The best way to get Borgeson units is to call and order direct, heck you'll here there CNC's running in the background. Quaggy if you can't find a local shop for the steering shop, find out how long it needs to be and saw it off, pack it up and send it to me and I will mill the flats for you, outside of shipping I'm cheaper than anybody. You need a 3/4DD on one end of the joint and I think your steering box is a 3/4"x36 spline unit for the other end (check it and see). If you clamp the box to your frame you will see that the shaft can just pass under the crossmember and let your draglink contact the pitman arm almost flat, which is actually the best way when you are wanting to eliminate bump steer, you are using a manual box are you not? As far as pics my jeep is mostly taken apart and in the garage floor. If you need any other help PM me and I will send you my phone number.

And Quaggy if you look on Borgeson's sight you will find that it is cheaper to buy a new splined shaft from them than it is to machine the one that you have when you consider shipping into the price.

 

or use a bell coupler
need another lower shaft though, one for a bell coupler

 

Jim the bad thing in my opinion about the rag joint and bell connector is the wear and slop that they have.

 

20 years ...no slop no play
to each his own

 

No slop, I'm impressed, I have seen them wear out in a couple of years!
Heck those can be had cheap!!