Dumb question of the day

I have three service manuals and can not find how large the brake lines need to be.
Is 3/16 OK for a CJ5 11 inch four wheel drum conversion?
Thanks.

 

Good question. I am using my stock lines on my 11 inch conversion. It seems to be ok but I have just done it and have not had to make a real stop yet

 

3/16" will be fine. The size of the brakes is irrelevant to the tubing size. Almost everything USA from that era is 3/16" to the wheels.

 

Not a dumb question at all. I looked and looked to see what was really appropriate or maybe even an upgrade. Seems that 3/16 is the default. I have been told that the Ni-copp is the stuff to use.http://www.amazon.com/Seamless-Copper-Nickel-Alloy-Brake/dp/B00A02C9H0 i used regular steel. works fine. Next time I will use Nicopp.

 

Thanks for the feedback. I think I will try Ni Copp.

 

That makes me think of how much fun it is flaring them .Sure have to be perfect.
Did all the lines and they all drip ever so slightly.
Any tricks gents?
W

 

Deburring the cuts with a tiny file seemed to help my efforts. And a good quality tool rather than a cheapy. And a drop of oil on the cone and ferrel (?) helps a bit.

 

Mine seem to look more like singles rather than doubles. The guys at Midas sure had a good chuckle.Ah what the hell , a few drips can't hurt .
hah

 

Should not leak. If they leak you need to do them again.

Making a flare tool work properly can be frustrating. I have had good results with an inline tool like this - http://www.amazon.com/CalVan-Tools-In-Line-Flaring-Fractional/dp/B008OSCUUI - As mentioned above, dressing the end of the tubing is critical. I use a cut-off disk to make a cut as perfectly 90 degrees as possible. I also put a little brake fluid on the end of the tubing as a lubricant.

 

the ni copp flares way easier than regular steel lines. the little bevel on the end of the line prior to making the first part of the flare is important too

 

I threw out A LOT of bad flares. Good thing steel line is cheap. Buy the 20 pack of fittings too. Buy twice what you need and use an imperial or ridgid or similar flare tool. I did all my brake lines. they should not leak. follow the directions.

I am going to try the nicopp.

 

Nicopp is good stuff. Buy the 25' coil from a seller on eBay. Cheapest source I've found. IIRC I paid about $30 shipping included. Several sellers offer it around that price.

 

Yes. I have found it helps a lot to fully chamfer both the ID and the OD before flaring.

 

x2

 

That tool looks so complicated i don't even understand it

 

Here's the one I use. http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html
Like others said, prep work on the tube end is critical to success with any flare tool. Cut it exactly square and chamfer both ID and OD.

Don

 

I have one of the eastwood ones as well---very nice tool. And it does a number of flares. I got it when I needed to do ALL the lines on my 2004 GMC diesel one ton. Blew one and then found I could break them apart by hand. Very very scary. If you have a early 2000 GMC or chevy and live anywhere there is salt-get them done now or sell the truck. Its a widespread problem which GM doesnt acknowledge.

And use the Nicopp--the stuff forms great--very easy to work with.

And to the guy that has the leaks--did you double flare?

 

:iagree:

 

I have a 2005 and I have heard this issue multiple times.