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Fino's 58 Wagon

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by FinoCJ, Aug 10, 2019.

  1. Aug 17, 2022
    Ol Fogie

    Ol Fogie 74 cj5 304, 1943 mb

    Southern...
    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2019
    Messages:
    1,765
    x2,(y).
     
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  2. Aug 18, 2022
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5,593
    I might be getting the OD install nearing completion....Here is the basic idea:
    Remove the D18 PTO cover and then remove the mainshaft gear:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Then slide in the appropriate barrel gear and planetaries (the is the common 6-spline, 29-tooth set-up for a small case 2.46 D18)
    [​IMG]

    Tighten the nut and install the diamond lock washer - in my case, the 'tab' on the washer is sitting in one of the correct recesses just below 3 o'clock:
    [​IMG]

    Then eff with the snap ring for WAY too long trying to get it in - go get a drink, check on the pets, dispose of a dead bird that flew into the window, surf you-tube to ensure you aren't doing it wrong, and then go back and finally get it in (and then quite possibly dance around in a disturbing way):
    [​IMG]

    These are the fancy gasketed/sealing washers that you can get from AA to seal up the one mounting bolt (at 2 o'clock or so) that goes through the OD fluid reservoir and threads into the D18...the other 4 bolts don't go through the OD reservoir, but do thread into open holes that go into the D18 reservoir. I used thread sealer on the 4 and then the fancy washer and a dab of RTV around bolt neck - no expectations that it won't leak. I don't think I did or recognized the need to try and seal under the bolt head on the cj5 OD - so that is probably THE reason it likes to seep just a little.....:rolleyes:
    [​IMG]

    The back end fully installed:
    [​IMG]

    As you can see, this unit is an old style front shift (won't work with a large case D18 or D20), and I think it actually makes life a bit easier for me in terms of linkage.
    [​IMG]

    Although I've already cut out a pretty big hole for the sm465, I had to cut the passenger corner some more to find room to mount the shifter.
    [​IMG]

    I think quite a few people mount the OD shifter forward of the TC levers, but for my set-up, it seemed easier to keep it on the rear corner on the transmission. The top of the sm465 has lots of casting ridges, thicker sections and whatnot - so its not totally trivial to just use some angle iron and drill a couple holes mount to the top cover. The underside of the bracket has some spacers welded on to help make it nice and flat and square.
    [​IMG]

    With the 465/D18 combo mounted as high as I could get it, it is nice the linkage shaft doesn't have to go up and over anything. Additionally the shifter mount ends up pretty high on top the sm465, so the linkage can actually can angle slightly upward from the OD to the shifter and not interfere with the floor pan. One thing to be careful of - I wanted to move the shifter a bit further forward, but then the linkage begins to interfere with the front cap on the D18. IIRC, this photo is with the OD in direct drive (shifter is pulled back, which pushes the linkage forward), and it has nice clearance from the D18:
    [​IMG]

    And the short section of linkage going back to the OD:
    [​IMG]

    The shifter bracket may still need a little love - its not as 'rigid' as I would like. May still need to tweak the spacers or grind a bit of clearance with the 465 cover. But otherwise, it needs some time for the gasket seal to cure, then some fluid and a test drive. I still need to bend the various shifter canes to get everything just right. The sm465 will get bent away from the driver's knee and toward the center just a bit, the OD will get bent away from the passenger's knee and towards to the center, and the long D18 lever (front axle engagement) will need to bend outward/passenger some.
     
    fhoehle, dozerjim, duffer and 7 others like this.
  3. Aug 18, 2022
    Stakebed

    Stakebed Member

    Lake Co....
    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2022
    Messages:
    656
    I like it.

    Just got my NP435/D18/Warn OD back from rebuilder. I'll be looking at your pictures for OD shifter inspiration.
     
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  4. Aug 19, 2022
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5,593
    its all done! test drive went nicely. To cruise at 60mph at just around 2100 rpm (instead of 2800) is very nice! Took some bending of the shift levers to get everything to pass...when in 2wd (long D18 shifter forward), everything is super nicely spaced. It only gets a little tight when in 4wd (long D18 shifter pulled back) and with OD engaged (OD shifter forward). Its possible I could bend the long D18 shifter a bit further forward up under the dash a bit more - but I don't want to change the OD shifter as it seems just about perfect (maybe its just similar to my cj so it seems i can find naturally). If I have to pull the twin sticks for some reason I might try to get another inch, but until then, I can live with it. I also tried to bend the sm465 shifter cane a bit as well - it might have moved an inch inward (it doesn't touch my knee anymore in 1st) - but I guess I just didn't have long enough pipe extension or strong enough vice/fulcrum point and hold to get much done to it. In the pic, the sm465 is forward up in 2nd gear, and when it shifts down to the bottom in 3rd, its nicely adjacent to the OD shifter - not sure I really want it any closer to the OD as when its in 3rd there is comfortable space but easy to jump over to the OD.
    [​IMG]
    Time to make floor pan transmission cover....this could be difficult for me.
     
  5. Aug 19, 2022
    Muzikp

    Muzikp Active Member

    Sacramento Ca.
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2016
    Messages:
    1,450
    That turned out really nice (y)
     
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  6. Aug 19, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2018
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    5,627
    X2.

    Sometimes people start with a turkey roasting pan to get the initial shape.
     
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  7. Aug 20, 2022
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
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    5,593
    Not the cheapest route, but was wondering about buying an aftermarket 465 cover and modifying that....Would probably have to cut it up a bit, but might be easier to weld in flat sections where needed and use the production curves and round corners.
    https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/786...TL30pF6u-6prnjQUZXxu4njihqYGyTHhoCc4MQAvD_BwE
     
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  8. Aug 20, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    Feb 9, 2018
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    That doesn't look like a half bad start.
     
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  9. Aug 20, 2022
    Stakebed

    Stakebed Member

    Lake Co....
    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2022
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    656
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  10. Aug 20, 2022
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2009
    Messages:
    4,460
    McMaster-Carr has those sealing lock washers. Probably a lot cheaper than AA.
     
  11. Aug 20, 2022
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5,593
    Probably true....I ordered a couple of other things from AA and since I had to pay $9 shipping for $8 in parts, I had them throw in some of the seal washers as well...I think they wanted a couple dollars apiece for them but no additional shipping. Why I ordered 5 when I only needed one is probably the stupid part. I figured I might need one someday and just thought its easier to get it all at once.
     
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  12. Oct 7, 2022
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
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    5,593
    I didn't want to fork over the money for new Yakima/Thule racks/bars etc, but recently I found a set of 66" bars with yakima raingutter towers for sale on CL just down the road from me. Price was right, so I bought them and added the 3" 'hi-rise' spacers - I did test running the Yakima towers without the spacers, and the cross-bars will not clear the roof. I think the spacing for the height of the bars above the roof is just about right - certainly it doesn't need to be any higher - it could be an inch lower depending on usage. I carry kayaks and bikes on my racks mostly, and having them just a bit on the high side is good.
    [​IMG]
     
  13. Oct 7, 2022
    Stakebed

    Stakebed Member

    Lake Co....
    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2022
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    656
    Hmmm, where have I read this before? :D:lol::rofl:
     
  14. Oct 7, 2022
    Jw60

    Jw60 Sitting up n buckled down. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Sedalia MO.
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    4,717
    I have the same roof rack!
    Be very careful about overall height with the garage door and snow on the ground.

    [​IMG]
     
  15. Oct 8, 2022
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
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    5,593
    hate to admit it, but I've been known to try to drive into the garage with bikes and kayaks on the top racks :oops:....more than once :banghead:....
    When I moved to bed rail mounted racks, it really helped with driving under things and pulling into the garage without hitting the eaves, but the tail of my long kayak stuck out past the tailgate a bit - far enough that closing the garage door was a problem :censored:
     
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  16. Oct 8, 2022
    Jw60

    Jw60 Sitting up n buckled down. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Sedalia MO.
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    I was worried about just the load bars with bike rails. Mine is right at 7' so I have to nudge the door up a bit.
     
  17. Nov 28, 2022
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
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    5,593
    Think the transmission cover is essentially finished...I struggled with this a lot. Had at least 2 complete tossed away attempts and wasted a lot of sheetmetal, time, energy etc trying to make something functional. I still don't like it....but it works....I've been working on this for 3 months and honestly it feels like I should pretty much start all over again - its pretty rough when you see it in person. Trying to finish it up reasonably nice has been a problem as well. First, I did some metal filler to smooth out the seams and weld joints. As I wanted something with a bit more strength than traditional bondo style filler, I used a more epoxy based filler which turned out was quite difficult to work with, but provides a lot more joint strength - of course, then the cover didn't really want to flex and bend and form fit to floor like it did when first test fitting, so then ended up creating quite a lot of distortion 'encouraging' it to fit. Then I did roll-on bedliner as I wanted to do all the front floorboards with it soon, so I didn't use a finishing glaze over the filler as the rough bedliner was going to hide some of the irregularity. But I didn't like the bedliner - especially when I envisioned it across the entire floorboard area , so removed it and the hassles that came with it. I should have then redone the filler and finished it nicely, but I went with some random can of old black spray paint on shelf until I figure out how I want to finish the floorboards and figure it can just look a bit rough. I sprayed the underside with rubber undercoating.
    [​IMG]

    Also, trying make some sort of trim rings and boots etc is still a bit of work in progress. Currently, the 3 shifter combo area has a sheet of rubber with slits cut into for the shifters held under a trim ring, but seems the rubber is not quite the right type as it wants to tear at the ends more than stretch. Not sure if I can make much of an overboot to accommodate the 3 shifters....the primary trans shifter is in the works - think I can make a decent single shifter boot out of leather and a trim ring. We'll see - its not super critical as not much air flow comes through that....its the 3-shifter area that is most critical as it really funnels a flow of air right into the passenger seat (i.e. Jen wasn't very happy with it).

    I also modified the brake pedal again to create a even bit more room for my foot to access the gas pedal. At this point, the pedal pad is longer the limiting issue - its the actual pedal arm that goes down through the floor. I may also tweak the mount bracket for the gas pedal to move it a bit driver so its more under my big toe instead of over under the smaller toes - but we'll see how it feels for a bit more. I moved the brake pedal about an inch driver, but probably lost about half an inch on the passenger side of the pedal with the new cover (my foot used to just rest against the side of the transmission) - so maybe a net gain of half an inch or just a tad more. Every little bit helps - at least I don't tend to wear too chunky of footwear.
    [​IMG]
     
  18. Nov 28, 2022
    Ohiowrangler

    Ohiowrangler Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Newark, Ohio
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    May 29, 2019
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    Very nice work, I wish I only tossed a couple of proto types. Ron
     
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  19. Apr 4, 2023
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5,593
    Here is one of next big projects on the 58 (there are a couple other projects in the works as well).....D44 powr-lok.
    [​IMG]

    Not 100% sure I want to run this. The wagon is not a hard wheeler, but sometimes it's hard to get anywhere without a bit of traction. Also I want it to be useable for winter road driving. I ran a tracloc in my CJ7 and cj5, and never had any issue with them on winter roads, but they were pretty useless from a traction standpoint. Obviously a selectable would work, but given the long term uncertainty about keeping the OEM axles, not a route I want to go now. Thinking this powr-lok would kind of find the sweet spot, and also fit in as authentic to the build....?

    Plus, having just done a D27 unit, hoping this will be quick and easy assembly and stored on the shelf ready to go. Quick inspection shows this unit to be in good shape- clutch disks and plates are much better than the used ones I replaced on the D27 unit - think I can reuse all these components as is.
    [​IMG]

    As I learned when doing the D27 unit, there are only curved Belleville plates on the D44 unit, no Belleville discs like on the D27 unit. Also, all of the flat plates are the same thickness - no 'thin' ones like the D27 unit.

    So, finishing cleaning and assemble.....two things:
    1) going to need some shorty 19spline shafts for set-up
    2) I have to figure out the 'buttons' that go in the cross shafts. The front axle set up doesn't use these....I know it's standard for tapered 44s, but it's new to me. Should I install these now during assembly? Seems like they will fall out? Should I wait and install later when/if the unit goes into the carrier and the axle shaft are slid in?
     
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2023
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  20. Apr 4, 2023
    FinoCJ

    FinoCJ 1970 CJ5 Staff Member

    Bozeman, MT
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2013
    Messages:
    5,593
    spent a bit more time with the 58 this afternoon....new inline tube clutch cable went in.
    [​IMG]

    When I put the clutch together, I wasn't sure how it would work, or what the best set up was going to be. I ended up going with the long clutch cable set-up as found on the v6 cj5....when originally rigging it together, I used a spare Crown cable I had in my spare parts trail bag for the cj5. After breaking a couple of those on the cj5, I didn't trust leaving it on the wagon indefinitely - it was just a cheap way to test fit - so now that I am comfortable with the clutch set-up, it was time to get a good one installed and move the Crown one back into the spare parts bag.
     
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2023
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