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71 Wheeling Rig

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Fireball, Jan 18, 2021.

  1. Apr 5, 2022
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Northern California
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    Sep 6, 2014
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    2,786
  2. Apr 5, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2018
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    Norcal69 likes this.
  3. Apr 6, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2018
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    3,836
    More fiddly stuff today.

    Got several coats of paint applied today by ducking out to the shop on breaks and at lunch:
    [​IMG]

    I started my evening work session by filling the transmission with oil through the sifter hole.. I did the transfer case before putting it in the Jeep since it's a pain after the fact.

    Then I permanently installed/greased the transfer case levers and overdrive linkage.

    Next was hooking up the speedometer cable. It looks like it's long enough to reach with no issues. I also trimmed the core a little shorter. It was too long and pushing into the back of the speedometer causing it to stick.

    I pulled out the old nylon fuel lines:
    [​IMG]

    Even though the lines exit out of the top of the tank, the feed line started to siphon the tank empty when I lowered the engine end too much. I ended up using the air hose to blow backwards through the line to add some air and break the siphon. That worked great.

    I was going to route the new ones but they look like this and don't really want to straighten out in the 39 degree shop:
    [​IMG]

    I brought them in the house to warm up overnight. Hopefully they'll be easier to straighten tomorrow.

    I spliced the Ford backup light switch plug to the Jeep harness , wrapped it in split loom, and zip tied it in place:
    [​IMG]

    I also replaced several missing cage nuts for the floor boards:
    [​IMG]

    Finally, I set the floorboards in place for motivation. Looking decent
    [​IMG]

    The list of things remaining;
    • Bend, paint, and install new Novak T18 shift lever
    • Hook up clutch cable, return springs, and adjust
    • Reinstall brake pedal return spring
    • Make mounting bracket for parking brake cable (since the crossframe is about four inches further back than it was), hook up cable, hook up return springs and adjust
    • Install bellhousing front plate and new compact starter. Shim starter if needed
    • Replace battery cables while installing starter
    • Install new fuel lines and securely route a new path around transmission/transfer case
    • Change front axle yoke to 1310 style and refill diff
    • Clean rear transfer case flange and install on new rear driveshaft
    • Install new driveshafts
    • Install all the floorboards with Mortite
    • Install steering column clamp
    • Install shift boots and retaining rings
    • Reinstall brake pedal
    • Reinstall trhottle pedal and reconnect throttle linkage
    • Clean, paint and install skid plate
    • Reinstall passenger seat
    At that point the Jeep should be functional again. Then I need to tackle a coolant leak at the thermostat housing.
     
    Buzzard, Ol Fogie, Rubicloak and 5 others like this.
  4. Apr 6, 2022
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    USA
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
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    I found that the Buick aluminum T stat housing gets internal pitting that causes pinhole leaks.
     
  5. Apr 6, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2018
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    Yeah, I've been through all that before with this. It seems like one of those problems that I'm just cursed with.

    First I cleaned and sealed the old housing it to have it leak again:
    [​IMG]

    Then I went whole hog cleaning the crap out of the intake surface including re-tapping the threads in case they were binding. They go into the water jacket and were a bit rusty:
    [​IMG]

    New housing, new bolts, ARP thread sealer, and gasket sealer that time:
    [​IMG]

    Back together and then the radiator hose was seeping a bit so I replaced it too:
    [​IMG]

    And it's still leaking. It's so slow you can never tell exactly where the leak is, but there is always coolant present.

    The plan this time:
    • Extra judicious cleaning of the intake manifold surface
    • Use a propane torch to make sure the sealing surface is DRY
    • More thread sealer
    • RTV instead of a gasket if the housing will sit flush without a gasket. If not, RTV plus gasket
    • New bypass house
    Third time is the charm maybe?

    If that doesn't work I may be FORCED to buy this TA Performance intake and save 40lbs off the front of the Jeep http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TA_1235:
    [​IMG]
     
    3b a runnin, Ol Fogie, duffer and 4 others like this.
  6. Apr 6, 2022
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    USA
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    You will be FORCED to do it!!! No choice!!!
     
    Twin2, Danefraz, duffer and 2 others like this.
  7. Apr 6, 2022
    Buildflycrash

    Buildflycrash The pride of Cucamonga 2022 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Gulf Breeze FL...
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2007
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    2,822
    I fought coolant leaks the same way with my Dauntless. Once I had it sealed there was no way I was taking it apart again. I’d pull the thermostat out the hose opening with pliers first!!
     
    Ol Fogie and Fireball like this.
  8. Apr 6, 2022
    Rich M.

    Rich M. Shoe salesman 2022 Sponsor

    Maryland
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2008
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    1,604
    Those repop aluminum necks suck. I never could get the bypass to stop leaking, I just threw it away. I sourced a Stant ( iron or cast steel)one off eBay. No leaks since.
     
    Fireball likes this.
  9. Apr 6, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2018
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    This is good info. I think I'll look for an NOS item on ebay.
     
  10. Apr 6, 2022
    Rich M.

    Rich M. Shoe salesman 2022 Sponsor

    Maryland
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    Mar 23, 2008
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    Rubicloak and Fireball like this.
  11. Apr 6, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    Thanks! I just ordered one from him.
     
    jeepstar and Rubicloak like this.
  12. Apr 7, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2018
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    Got a couple things done tonight.

    New fuel lines are ran (with the exception of one P-clip I can't install until the floorboards are bolted in). It's hard to see in the picture, but this is where they come up behind the right side of the engine and connect to rubber hoses running to the fuel manifold on the left side of the engine:
    [​IMG]

    I also replaced both the rubber hoses under the hood. I did not replace the rubber hoses at the tank because the old ones still look good and I didn't want to drop that tank. They will get addressed when I add fuel injection. Hopefully in the next year.

    Since I had extra laying around, I used some thermal wrap in abrasion hazard areas. This is where it wore through before:
    [​IMG]

    At the back of the floor where I had to relocate the lines near the floor lip and a clip nut.
    [​IMG]

    I went to hook up the clutch and found the cable is about an inch short even though I moved the cable anchor forward on the transfer case to keep it the proper distance. I checked it again and the bracket is in the proper place. This clutch just has different geometry. I didn't feel like re-welding my bracket so I found some 9/16" OD x 25" ID tube in the stock bin. I drilled and threaded it to match the 5/16-24 of the cable, cut off the threaded part of a matching bolt, and made an extension:
    [​IMG]

    I filed some flats on the sides so I could grip it for tightening. I've got a 5/16" coupler nut on the way for better grip but this will work in the meanwhile. I can't really tell if the clutch is working yet but it's adjusted to where there is a tiny amount of slack at the throwout bearing and if feels right when pushed:
    [​IMG]

    The only clutch fork boot I could find is for a GM car and the short Jeep arm doesn't even stick out of it. I trimmed a clearance notch into it with scissors.

    I also did something I've been meaning to do for a while. The upper radiator hose has about 3/8" clearance to the cowl support rod but still rubs occasionally when driving. I'll shorten the hose for more clearance when I fix the thermostat housing but for now I've put some rubber on the support rod:
    [​IMG]

    Here's the divot worn into the hose. it's not as deep as the picture makes it look but it sure isn't good:
    [​IMG]

    Updated list. Doesn't look like a lot of progress:
    • Bend, paint, and install new Novak T18 shift lever
    • Hook up clutch cable, return springs, and adjust
    • Reinstall brake pedal return spring
    • Make mounting bracket for parking brake cable (since the crossframe is about four inches further back than it was), hook up cable, hook up return springs and adjust
    • Install bellhousing front plate and new compact starter. Shim starter if needed
    • Replace battery cables while installing starter
    • Install new fuel lines and securely route a new path around transmission/transfer case
    • Change front axle yoke to 1310 style and refill diff
    • Clean rear transfer case flange and install on new rear driveshaft
    • Install new driveshafts
    • Install all the floorboards with Mortite
    • Install steering column clamp
    • Install shift boots and retaining rings
    • Reinstall brake pedal
    • Reinstall trhottle pedal and reconnect throttle linkage
    • Clean, paint and install skid plate
    • Reinstall passenger seat
     
    Ol Fogie, Buzzard, Twin2 and 9 others like this.
  13. Apr 7, 2022
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Post Falls, ID
    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2015
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    6,325
    That kind of stuff is annoying and takes forever. But nicely done!
     
    '74Renegade, Rubicloak and Fireball like this.
  14. Apr 7, 2022
    garage gnome

    garage gnome ECJ5 welder 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Western MA
    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2009
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    2,700
    Looking great! It always seems like its the small minute details that take the most time. And people say, "oh that an easy swap, should take no time at all." Yeah right, get that all the time with my TDI swap. Sure, you can hack it in there, but I prefer to take my time and make it look like it was supposed to be there and have everything as clean as possible.
     
    Ol Fogie, Twin2 and Fireball like this.
  15. Apr 7, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
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    Feb 9, 2018
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    Agreed, plinking through the little stuff takes forever.
     
  16. Apr 7, 2022
    Renegade ll

    Renegade ll Member

    Thayne Wyoming
    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2013
    Messages:
    551
    Fantastic work!!! I am inspired by your skill and knowledge.
     
    Fireball likes this.
  17. Apr 8, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2018
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    3,836
    Made a simple relocation bracket for the parking brake cable. The cable end has a 5/16" bolt and a tab that indexes in a hole next to it. I used a piece of strap and added matching holes 4.5" apart. That's how far rearward the crossframe moved. I welded a rod in the bracket end to mimic the cable tab and prevent rotation. Then I bent up another piece of strap to brace it to the nearby skid plate bolt:
    [​IMG]

    With the bolts tightened up, it seems to work great with no flex. Not bad for no new holes drilled in the crossframe. Top view:
    [​IMG]

    Then I took it out and prepped it for paint.

    The confounded speedometer cable wants to leak gear oil but it's nearly impossible to get a wrench or pliers on the cable nut and tighten it. I tried harder tonight and got some more rotation out if it. We'll see if that helps. If not, I'll put a nice squishy O-ring in there instead of the current rubber gasket.

    The skid plate had plenty of rust inhibitor that needed to be removed:
    [​IMG]

    After cleaning and dent reduction in the press:
    [​IMG]

    Since my new D18 and T18 won't leak a drop of oil (see speedometer cable item above), the bare spots surely need to be painted to prevent rust.

    I also masked the Front axle U-joint yoke and the rear transfercase U-joint yoke to get them painted along with the rest of this.

    Drying so I can flip them in the morning:
    [​IMG]

    And now it's midnight. Sigh. Let's look at the list and see what I can check off:
    • Bend, paint, and install new Novak T18 shift lever
    • Hook up clutch cable, return springs, and adjust
    • Reinstall brake pedal return spring
    • Make mounting bracket for parking brake cable (since the crossframe is about four inches further back than it was), hook up cable, hook up return springs and adjust
    • Install bellhousing front plate and new compact starter. Shim starter if needed
    • Replace battery cables while installing starter
    • Install new fuel lines and securely route a new path around transmission/transfer case
    • Change front axle yoke to 1310 style and refill diff
    • Clean rear transfer case flange and install on new rear driveshaft
    • Install new driveshafts
    • Install all the floorboards with Mortite
    • Install steering column clamp
    • Install shift boots and retaining rings
    • Reinstall brake pedal
    • Reinstall trhottle pedal and reconnect throttle linkage
    • Clean, paint and install skid plate
    • Reinstall passenger seat
    Hmm. Absolutely nothing. But progress so some of them can be checked off quickly in the next work session.
     
    Ol Fogie, Rubicloak, ITLKSEZ and 3 others like this.
  18. Apr 8, 2022
    Andrew Theros

    Andrew Theros Member 2022 Sponsor

    Los Osos, CA
    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2021
    Messages:
    192
    @Fireball
    I am curious about your nylon fuel lines. Are they commonly available, or did you happen to have them?

    Fuel and supply are moving up my list quickly, just trying to plan ahead.

    Thanks!
    Andy
     
    Muzikp likes this.
  19. Apr 8, 2022
    Rubicloak

    Rubicloak Member 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Nevada
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    Jul 19, 2018
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    269
    Muzikp likes this.
  20. Apr 8, 2022
    Fireball

    Fireball Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor 2021 Sponsor 2020 Sponsor

    Pullman, WA
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2018
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    Also readily available on Amazon. Just search for "nylon fuel line"
     
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