Setting End Play D18

I can’t get any end play I’ve got 3/64” of shims stacked and still can’t get any movement of the rear output should I keep stacking or look for something not put together correctly.

 

3/64ths doesn't sound like that many shims. How thick is the pack of shims that you get in the rebuild kit? I seem to remember using a couple of thick ones and a couple of thin ones to get the proper endplay.

 

I used all the shims plus 2 hand cut shims made out of paper gasket material. The rebuild kit came with 4 shims two thin and two thick

 

I finally got it .05 I think it will loosen up some as the new bearings wear in. I had to make two more shims out of paper gasket material then I used spray on hi tack sealer between all the layers.

 

I had a hard time getting mine right, put it all together more than a few times tightened it checked end play, took it apart, changed shims, did it again, still didn't like the numbers. Finally got what it said to have a little to the loose side, put sealer on put it together, liked what I saw, now everything is good, after about 6K miles it is still OK. I used some of the old shims and new shims to get it right. Good Luck.

 

It won't loosen up, it will just overheat your bearings. get more shims or make them. Use steel, aluminum or brass as the paper ones will crush. I used a pile of them until I got the right end play.

 

I had a similar problem when rebuilding my D18 a few months ago. I didn’t measure the full shim stack(probably should have for reference) but I ended up needing to pick up another package of shims to add to what came in the rebuild kit. After some searching I found a few other people who claimed that there is a slight difference in the bearings being supplied in modern rebuild kits which requires a thicker shim pack to get the right endplay.

 

Never throw away the old shims, use them and add or subtract as necessary. Keep all the shims as spares!!

 

This is a fact. I reused the old shims and new shims and some hand cut ones out of paper gasket material. I’m going to remove the paper and replace with metals shims then hopefully I can get a little more free play. It a pain in the royal arse taking the yoke off .

 

yeah and don't stack "lettuce" as we call it.. try to stick to thick shims and use a few thin shims for adjustment.. "lettuce" will do weird things.. like walk out..

 

"I finally got it .05 I think it will loosen up some as the new bearings wear in."

I have seen the same mistaken thought expressed by people having trouble getting the rear axle end play in spec. Bearings DO NOT wear in, but they can wear out.

I agree with what 47V6 said about the bearings heating up, and paper not being suitable as shims.

I have seen wheel bearings actually welded to the spindle because someone set them too tight.

While you can certainly make shims out of shim stock, you really should just buy another pack of shims, they don't cost nearly as much as a burned bearing will cost.

Setting the end play is also called setting bearing preload, and in all cases too tight will ruin the bearing. Better to be a little loose than too tight.