Discussion in 'Quitters' Club' started by bigjohn, Oct 8, 2021.
Well, there's your problem. You need a flywheel, clutch, and a Tremec 5spd.
I don't think the cj is shiny enough in the background - you need to go work on that....
Way out of my experience, but even as I assume that steering box is a reverse rotation, it just seems odd to see it placed so far back in the engine bay....of course, it even seems odd to see the front axle/crossmember (is this thing 2wd, coil IFS on the front?) so far 'under' the engine as opposed to out front where the grill is.....
Ya it’s a bit odd for sure. That is what’s the i beams Mount too. It makes it really fun to do oil changes with a front sump pan. The drain plug drops dead center on that crossmember…
I’m still really debating changing to the crown Vic k member. Discs, rack and pinion and a much better stance and suspension design would be hugely beneficial but I can get over the track width, which requires a nearly zero offset wheel.
I've never really felt it necessary to change the Twin I-Beams, they handle just fine for me. But maybe I'm just used to them...
Ya they really aren’t awful. Like I said the jury’s out. I know this bendix steering gear isn’t long for this world and I’m really not sure if they’ll be any header clearance issues. The crown Vic solves many of those issues. And the good drop beams have become very spendy. Eh we’ll see. That said I do agree though, I’ve always enjoyed the ride quality of I beam suspension.
That would be a fun combo. I’m looking at possibly getting a built aod but for now I’m just going to reuse the c4 that’s in it. This should be fun for awhile while I save for the longer term motor and trans.
A Crown Vic front end would be a really nice setup.
New flex plate on and the motors in. With the wife working nights it’s tough to find time to get down to the barn while doing daddy daycare. I got a little time this morning before the kids woke up then a bit more when the little one went down for a nap. For the record it’s a real job doing this by myself.
The small converter was robbed off of the wife’s old c4 that this motor was mounted too it. It is a Portland converter built unit. Nothing fancy but should work.
One more thing to note, as predicted those torque converter nuts are an absolute pain with that rear sump oil Pan. I had to walk away. While cruising the marketplace I noticed some offset head wrenches that reminded me I have a set in one of my trail tool bags. After the kids go to bed I’ll find it and finish buttoning up the motor. I’m hoping to have time to work out the rest of the details over the next week and get her running and driving again.
Not a great day. That stupid oil Pan is become an even larger pain. My new starter I bought for the Windsor a few weeks ago won’t fit. The body is too large bumping against the side of the Pan. I tried my best to show that in a picture. So I’m going to try and install the old Cleveland starter just to rule that out for certain.
The headers from the Falcon I thought would work based on parts numbers cross referencing are no bueno. The collectors land just a few inches away and aimed directly at the trans cross member. I know some guys notch the crossmember but I don’t want to because I don’t know what motor this truck will have long term and mostly I just don’t want to butcher it. So a mini starter and headers for a 79 f150 2wd 351m should do the trick. I just really didn’t want any more large expenditures.
I did get the one wire 10si hybrid alternator mounting finalized and wired and the old exhaust cut out. The power steering pump is figured out, I just need a 2” spacer and it’ll be set. Lately the fuel pump is set with adapters and bolted up. I’m just hesitant to plumb it since I’ll probably need to lift the motor again to get the Torino passenger headers out and the new ones in. There’s a few other little things I can do but I’m largely at a stand still.
I may have found a solution.
48-79 Ford F100 Cross-Member - Modern Driveline
I need to do some measuring to ensure it’ll work and the centered Mount will be alright with my combo.
I did bolt the headers on and found with “adjusting” the passenger header should clear that middle crossmember. Then it’s just working out the starter to get moving forward again.
Well I took a day off from work to get after this truck. I’m dead in the water without mini starter and radiator but figured I’d knock out the work I’ve been procrastinating this week so maybe we’ll do some jeeping.
I pulled the passenger header for more denting, welded a crack back up, cut an ear off the c4 bell housing the driver side header was touching and finally bolted them up with remflex gaskets.
Next the fuel pump inlet was very busy with the power steering pump return and oil filter all in the same area. So I removed the fuel pump , clocked the lower for a better inlet but a badder outlet. That’ll probably need a 90 degree fitting but I’m not sure if I won’t just pick up a AN 3’ kit with a few 90 degree fittings.
And I finally changed to the other power steering pump. The fluid smells awful and I don’t know if it works but I know my existing struggles to turn at low speeds with hot fluid. And a new reman is running north of $200 so this is yet another gamble.
Otherwise got a few other odds and ends done, carb and spacer on, throttle and lockdown linkage run. Those need tweaking to eliminate interference but are actually working pretty well. The dipstick is mounted and despite the negative reviews I think it’s a power clean looking setup. By biggest complaint is the short arp header bolts. I couldn’t use the washers. I struggled to get them in and even after scrunching the header gaskets, I’ll unlikely trust the thread engagement with the washers installed.
The Cleveland is a runner!!
Got some quality barn time while the kids were in school yesterday and a bunch parts came in so I got after it. Installed the new radiator, went to town and spent some time in the back of the flaps grazing their radiator hoses until I found two that turned out to fit really well. I finished plumbing the temporary fuel hoses, trans cooler, and power steering lines. Then I got the factory temp gauge plumbed but didn’t have the right fittings for the aftermarket gauge, and the new oil pressure gauge is missing a Ferrell. I did get the new sender for the dummy light and plumbed that next to the fuel pump. The gauge will go to the port at the back behind the intake.
Starting it wasn’t super easy. I had the fuel pump plumbed backwards and the static timing off enough I thought something was wrong so messed with that a bit. Finally got her going and warmed up, roughed in the timing and idle, and have a good Systems and leak check.
The good news, there don’t appear to be any leaks. The new old power steering pump works. Just about all of the new stuff send to be working well. I’m really excited to get this on the road. The motor is very snappy. I suspect I’ll need a fuel regulator as it seemed at times to overrun the needle which is fine because In going to redo the fuel hoses in AN.
The two bits of bad news though. The wind blew my hood over last week during one of the storms and killed the front nose part. That’sa heart breaker. It’s full of bondo but rust free.
And the trans is not moving the truck. I filled the torque converter before installing and was getting some pressure to the cooler lines. It would sort of move but now nothing. I’m hoping I didn’t kill the pump during the motor install but I think that’s what’s going on. I do still have the c4 out of the Falcon I could run so that’s not a huge issue assuming the converter is fine. The fluid was checked at hot idle in neutral and checked fine after adding a few quarts.
Lastly I called the fella from stifflers and he’s going to do a few tube crossmember for a stock 2” offset. He said it’it would be at my door in about 3 weeks. I explained this header issue is pretty common and this could be an awesome solution for guys wanting to run long tubes for much more common applications like Torino’s and Mustangs. When I asked what I owed him he said no charge, just a few pictures and fit feedback.
Anyway my thumb is tired. Here’s some pictures.
Of course I forgot to give the throttle a little brap.
Got to the barn for an hour or so to finish mounting and wiring the tach, oil pressure and temp gauge. To be honest I really dislike the summit brand gauges. I think I’ll order a few stewart Warner gauges in the near future. These will do for now. The tack is mounted just like my my first truck. It’s a bit bulkier that the old one was but it’s nostalgic for me. And I was relieved to see oil pressure around 70 psi after changing the Pan and pickup to rear sump,just like it used to be.
Not much to report here. I pulled the tranny this week and found the issue. Rookie mistake. I didn’t know the c4 had different pilot shaft sizes. So I installed the 26 spline converter on the 24 spline c4. When I started it, it briefly moved then nothing. That was the pilot shaft wiping the spline of the converter. So I got a hold of spec rite in Redding and got it shipped down there for rebuild. I’ll reseal the other c4 and get it ready for install when the converter comes back and the new crossmember arrives. I also need to order some AN fuel line and fittings for both the f100 and Falcon. Anyway, more to come soon.
Wow guess I haven’t updated this in awhile. Probably because with daddy daycare and other stuff I just haven’t had much time. Also spec rite told me what I already suspected. It’sa B&W converter. They said they try to fix it but got ghosted so ordered another B&W from summit along with some 3/8” nickel copper tube for fuel line.
That was a whole experience. I’d never done much with 3/8” tube. Mostly just brake tube. My first attempted bend was a kink. Second another kink with a different tool. Third after changing the roller to the correct size kink and bent tool. So I bought another, a few decent bends, then linked the final bend I finally borrowed a good bender from a mechanic buddy from work. This helped by bends but not my skills. I failed on three more attempts on the final leg. Once flared without the fitting. Once put a bend too close to the carb fitting to get the flare and fitting on. Once out my nearly The second bend 90 degrees out Finally the fuel lines all done for now. I still suspect it’ll be redone to accommodate a Holley regulator but it’s fine for now.
I also pulled the radiator to mount an external trans cooler. I’ll Daisy chain the two coolers once I get the Hard cooler lines. Oh wait they were next to the barn. I finally tried to dig them out of the snow when one of the kids informed me the dog had thrown them in the pond she thought. Great.
So for more we’re mostly back together. Trans is installed again, header back on, bunch of stuff reinstalled. Just needs to reinstall the shifter lever, kick down lever, Speedo cable, and drive shaft.
On the drive shaft subject the truck always had a mid vibration at freeway speeds. I think I found the culprit. I pulled a spicer from my 1310 stash and hopefully that won’t be an issue. I tried to install one on the front too but for some reason the ears on the yolk were super mushroomed and hashed. Joint appeared ok though.
Lastly I’ve tried getting ahold of Stifflers to see how that crossmember is coming and again, being ghosted. I suspect I’ll need to just build one but my indecision on design is a real holdup. Once it runs and drives I suspect that’ll be a good kick in the butt to get something together.
Ok enough of that, here’s some pictures.
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