Talk Me Off A Ledge.... Bondo/body Filler

Looks like a beautiful Jeep. I hope it works out great for you.

Dave

 

It doesn't like us, either.

Good luck with your extraordinary jeep.

 

I hate rust. Grew up with rusty junk. Don't give a hoot for rust, rot, "patina" or the like. Probably explains my disgust at rat rods. I like them to look new when I'm done. Tractors, Jeeps, whichever. That's why Farm Jeep Willy wears an Aqualu body. I didn't want to try chasing rust. Your Jeep will be great, I think you are doing a great job and figuring out the best way!

 

"frame off restored 11 years ago"
Peoples interpretation of "restored" varies.
Truly "restored" would have at the time been stripped completely down to bare metal, and suspect rust areas patched with welded in metal. Had this been done, there would be no bubbling rust coming thru in 11 years time, unless of course it was driven every winter on salted roads, never garaged, etc.
The correct answer is strip the body down to bare metal, the bubbling from the rust that has now surfaced, is I'm sure the tip of the iceberg.
Once stripped down to bare metal, cut out rusted metal, and weld in new steel, then proceed with body work, and paint.
You did say you always wanted a "show quality CJ5", you have to start with a sound, and properly prepared base.
Good luck.

 

IMHO, easier to start with a sound rust free survivor, at whatever price.

 

haha yep. I ended up grinding and sanding down the whole quarter panel on the drivers side in order to find where the bondo stopped and see if there was any more rust. luckily there wasn't. been working on it for the last 3 days :/. Had to cut out a small section of outer sheet metal right where the inner body support runs which is why it's taking so long.

I estimate I'll have to do the same on the passenger side.

The fenders show signs of the same thing right where the stiffening panel on the top is welded. I'm weighing the options of if I should just buy new replacement fenders or spend the entire weekend next week doing the fenders lol.

Anyone have experience with the omix repops? also... beyond the cutouts for the side reflectors, were there any other differences between the 64' fenders and the later ones? say for 69-71

The reason I ask is a set of fenders without the reflector cutout is like $750 where a set WITH the cutout is like $300. I dont care about keeping it true to 1964 since I'll already have a windshield form a 69', a 2021 top, new style tires, etc.

 

Honestly you are better off repairing the original fenders. Do it once the correct way and you will be much happier with the end results.

 

I would repair your original fenders. I have done 2 sets now, and I cut the overlay panel off by using a broach cutter/spot weld cutter, like a small hole saw.
I cut the outer layer at every spot weld to separate the outer panel. I then sandblast the previously covered area, rough bodywork, then 2 part epoxy. I also prime the new replacement overlay panel with the same epoxy.
I then “glue” the new panel with 3M panel bond, held in place by clamps. Minimal bodywork to prep for final paint.
It will never rust here again.
-Donny

 

My Jeep had "Off Shore" fenders on it when I got it, I found a pair of not too bad factory fenders and cut the inner fenders out of them and put them in the off shore fenders, made a better, stronger set of fenders out of the off shore fenders. I filled in the marker lights made the off shore fenders look older. Good luck.

 

What is your media preference for sandblasting? I read that it is a problem on big panels because it stretches out the panel.

 

Dustless blasting is the way to go. There should be someone in your area who either has a shop or mobile unit.

 

Sifted quartz sand (white sugar consistency) at around 80 psi with an 1/8” or 3/16”nozzle. Yes, I wear a OSHA approved respirator too. And yes, sandblasting warps sheetmetal. On the front fender repairs, the metal exposed when you peel off the outer overlay is rusty bare steel thats never had paint to protect it. There are usually holes already rusted though, or there will be after blasting all the rust off to clean grey steel. Remember my term “rough bodywork” at this stage? I hammer and dolly the metal back to flat, checking with a straight edge. When I glue the new overlay in place, I use a small pieces of 3/8” plywood over the outer panel to prevent denting, and C-clamp the overlay till the panel bond cures. The panel bond oozes through the rust holes and edges, and is sanded off the inside where its hard to tell that area was ever worked after its repainted.
-Donny

 

I buy the sifted white sand from Carolina Lumber Company. Always wear a respirator.
80 psi. Nozzle at an angle and a good distance away. Has worked well for me in the past. I have seen people blasting without a respirator. Bad idea Silicosis is bad.
When I did my pickup bed, I put out tarps and caught the sand. Screened it again, vacuumed it up and used it again until it wouldn't strip anymore.

Dave

 

It is my understanding that using natural sand is in fact extremely dangerous to the lungs - much more likely to cause incurable silicosis than blasting grits such as Black Beauty.

Using "crystalline silica" is actually prohibited in many countries. https://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/92-102/default.html

Stay safe, my friends.

 

I use Black Diamond fine from Tractor Supply. It's made from coal slag. Very aggressive rust and paint removal. The fine version leaves a ready to paint surface finish.

 

I used black diamond on structural steel/cast iron without problems. Just wasn’t sure if that was ok for the body.
I dump the old black diamond into my yard. Fresno has really thick clay soil so in 10,000 years, my soil will be perfect.

 

And if you're like me, the Jeep project will be finally getting wrapped up.

 

On a tub I would go with dustless blasting. You do not need to worry about panel warpage or toxicity.
Dustless blasting can be used to clean brick, wood, metal, stone, concrete, ect......
I have not done business with these guys, but they are located in Fresno.
https://www.facebook.com/a1blasting/

 

Interesting discussion on Sand Blasting. Haven't done it in years, but I always made sure the respirator fit well and had new filters in it. Still made me nervous.
Thinking if I do it again I will use a Fresh Air Supplied Respirator.
I still wonder about the guys doing the Dustless Blasting with minimal safety gear.

Dave

 

I am starting work on my fenders and it was taking a lot of time to remove bondo with the Tractor Supply fine slag. It left a great finish on the final product, but I was concerned that it will cause too much stretching because of how long you need to lean on a concentrated area to remove bondo, so my current plan is to sand as much of the old layers of paint off with my orbital sander and then use a wire wheel to get the bulk of the bondo out before finishing up on the sandblaster. Does that make sense?

Regarding the dustless blasting, it seems like a ton of water pressed into bare steel is a good recipe for rust. Am I missing something?

The local conventional blasting guys quoted me $650-750 to do the tub. One guy uses glass bead and the other uses aluminum oxide/glass garnet. I have painted on bedliner in the bed, which is probably going to be the biggest PIA. I may look into something chemical for that.