1953 Off Road Rescue/recovery Jeep

Hey Ken, have you thought about diy ethanol removal? There's lots of videos on YouTube but I think it involves adding water to separate out the ethanol, and then extracting it. Might save you a lot of driving for minimal effort!

 

I'ld expect with a keen eye you will find more ethanol free fuel. We have at least three here in the city limits. Look for gas pumps with extra hoses hanging down at the station. The new Casey's across the road has two hoses on the left e85 and e0 with the reg,mid,premium on another common hose to the right.

 

Here's a map that even the Husqvarna site recommends. I shared it with a friend in Creve Coeur. Hopefully he can add some across the creek from you.

https://www.pure-gas.org/

 

Yeah thanks Joseph. That’s the app I use.
Gas is not my major problem I generally don’t have a need to drive very far right now. A bigger issue is that most anyplace I need to go is interstate. I have to go to BJC today but my only decent route is 100% interstate.
So yeah it’s kinda tough depending on an old willy as a daily driver… But some old guy out there has to do it and I probably have more experience at it than most. I pretty much feel right at home with it.
Had been getting way too spoiled with that truck…automatic transmission and no whining noises.

 

THE BUILD PARAMETERS

The main influence behind the making of R&R was to use up accumulated Jeep stock that I had been hoarding for years. Parts that mainly were not deemed complimentary toward the building of my final ultimate daily drivers. I simply was using up OEM parts I had that were of lesser value to me. Previously I had the idea of having multiple spare standard type 3B’s to drive but had long since given up on that notion. I felt they are no longer valid in a world traveling over 65 mph. So I sold off 2 perfectly nice 3B’s of somewhat lesser value.

During earlier times these same parts may have been my pride and joy. But as I learn the deepest secrets concerning CJ’s 1945-1985; my “know how” is constantly improved on.

My general plan came together by always selling off my spare parts of lesser value first. Thanks in part to forum members and also those attending the annual Fall Willys Reunion. As always done previously this jeep would be constructed 100% using Jeep genuine stock standard and stock optional components.

The parameters for this build are to remain 100% Jeep via “stock standard” assemblies along with heavy duty and other “stock optional” parts plus a few important upgrades removed from early cj-5’s.

The build parameter was to be focused toward the very best of the “old school CJ’s”. (1945-1966).

At the time of it’s inception I had a need for a Jeep that was truly capable for log skidding. Along with that I also envisioned it’s potential for tight situation Off Road Rescue + Recovery work. A small Jeep being fully able to extract other flat fenders and utv’s becoming stranded in tight quarters.

And so my old 1953 3B was destined once again to become my final and my very best 134 Hurricane build.

 

Willys Group Index 10 -01 Engine
Being self dependent I try and do 100% of my own work. But I certainly don’t have an automotive machine shop.

My favorite machinist had been self employed since the late 1950’s and was still going at it a few years ago. But being well into his 70’s I knew his shop time was near an end. So I had 3 final Jeep engines fully machined before he closed up his one man shop for good. Two Dauntless engines for my final Jeeps were machined. But first came this engine which is my final and my best attempt on a Willys F-134 Hurricane. I’ve built a lot of these old L+F 134 engines and truly love their simplicity. But for use in daily drivers it’s clearly well past time to give them up. Yet here I am once again depending on an F-134 for all my travel needs.

10-02 Cylinder Block

By this time the original 1953 engine had undergone one full rebuild in 1983 and had approximately 180K total miles on its two lives. After hard use the block had developed 2 hairline cracks showing up at the typical # 2 + 3 exhaust valve locations. Besides that It previously had a .040 o.s. bore and I prefer not to bore them any further.

So I found me another engine block. The 1963 Hurricane engine I settled on looked solid having no visible defects and upon inspection was expected to clean up with .030 oversized bore.

10-02A Cylinder Head

I hoped to increase the CR as much as possible so I can derive a bit more power from the gasoline. As you know Willys produced an optional high altitude F head for use over 10 K elevation. At the time I could not locate a 7.8/1 compression ratio head. I thought on it a while and decided not to go beyond the optional factory ratio of 7.8/1. Just for starters the block was to be decked and that would shave .010 off the top.

So I settled for the next best thing. I looked over the piles of spare heads that Harry Sheets had in his shed. I picked out a real nice 7.4/1 CR head (intended for use above 8K altitude) and decided to make that one work. After milling the top of block down plus shaving the 7.4 head itself; I ended up with the desired 7.8/1 CR. Add to that a “Best” brand copper head gasket for superior heat transfer away from the valve area.

10-03 Crankshaft

I wanted this engine to be as close to a factory new engine as possible. At the time Matt Fox had a virtually unused crankshaft. The crank was removed from a M38-A1 military salvage wreck with only 50 some actual miles of operation. Well I jumped on that deal and bought the crank with no second thoughts. Took the crank downtown to the best crankshaft specialist in STL. Had him to re-polish all of the dry but rust free journals and so it was essentially as good as new.

10-04 Crankshaft Bearings

So what does one pair with a virtually new crankshaft ? Well at the time it was easy to find OEM standard sized main bearings. Clevite bearings; still in their original Willys boxes. When I installed the crank into the block I test fitted with Plasti-gauge. The Plasti-gauge deformed evenly across the surface right down to the ideal specs.

10-05 Connecting Rods and Bearing

The rods were native to the block and the rod bores were checked for size. Here again standard journal sized OEM Clevites in Willys boxes was the right thing to use.

10-06 Pistons and Pins

A couple years prior I had found a very rare set of .030 oversized OEM Willys pistons for sale. These Willys pistons are special for the F-134 Hurricane as they are heavier built than L-134 Go-Devil pistons. Luckily when the block was miked it looked to need .030 O.S. pistons. So my machinist got the block honed in to a perfect fit. It turns out that the .030 O.S. pistons is the only notable difference between this particular engine and factory new.

10-07 Piston Rings

Here again OEM Muskegon rings; need I say more ? With all ring gaps carefully placed during assembly.

10-08 Valves, Valve Guides and Springs.

Prior to machining the block and head I installed OEM Willys valve guides to proper depth. This block already had the original hard exhaust inserts. Add to that Willy’s boxed genuine Eatonite exhaust valves. And here once again Matt Fox supplied me with a complete set of military surplus NOS valve springs.

10-09 Valve Tappets

This time I did not go new. I fitted all tappets into their original bores and they were snug. So all they needed was a reface the ends on the adjusters.

10-10A Rocker Arm Cover

Over the years Willy’s used 4 differing styles of crankcase ventilation. I decided to built this with what I feel was the latest and most effective system. Unlike the system used in 1953 there is no venting on the rocker cover itself.

10-11 Camshaft and Timing Gears

Here as always OEM NOS including the cam bearings.

10-13 Oil Pump

Here I used an original late design pump as it looked in good order. Simply rebuilt it with a NOS gasket.

10-17 Oil Distribution

Of coarse the complete inside of engine was lubed prior to assembly. The oil gallery including oil filter was primed before its initial start up. Of coarse upon start up the oil pressure comes right up and holds steady as should be expected.

10-18 Crankcase Ventilation

As previously noted a late type crankcase ventilation system was installed exactly as was used on the late type Hurricanes.

10-19 Manifolds

Here I used the original exhaust manifold that was in very good non pitted condition. A good paint and brass stud nuts to make it even better.

10-21 Flywheel and Ring Gear

I used a post 1961 factory drilled flywheel adaptable for either size of clutch cover. Add to that a NOS ring gear. I prefer the original taper type studs for mounting.

10-23 Engine Mountings

Once again OEM NOS rubber mounts.



Lastly;

All engine groupings and any specific parts not mentioned were the carefully refurbished original parts taken from this particular engine.







Stay with me as I continue to detail the complete build via the Willys Group Index.

 

I like the way you routed the fuel line to the filter and carb. The line currently on my F-Head is routed over the timing cover and up to carburetor between head and oil filter. Not able to install the Carter filter I have until I make a new line.

You do good work Ken.

 

Andy I just used a NOS factory fuel tube and clips to mount the optional “Skinner” fuel filter.
I let Willys take the credit. I’m just copying the originals. I’ll get to the complete fuel system in group 12.

 

I'll bet those are getting hard to find, but I have tubing benders and will come close to that. I have a nice NOS Carter Ceramic filter I plan to use on that Jeep.

 

I had a couple of the optional “F” head fuel tubes and thinking Pete DeBella may still have some ?
Yes I think the ceramic Carter filter/sediment bowls are actually superior to the Willys approved Skinner filters.
But then again I’m sort of a Carter guy since they were mfgd here local in St. Louis.

 

I think they are the best fuel filter ever made. Just clean the element in solvent when needed and it can be used over and over. Probably why they quit making them, no return buyers.

 

Willys Group Index
11-01 Clutch Assembly

Originally this Jeep was intended for hard work. I do a lot of firewood cutting every year and was planning to use it for log skidding. So naturally the intent was to go with the a heavy duty clutch. When this Jeep was rebuilt back in 1983 I installed a 9-1/4” Borg Beck 6 spring pressure plate. The clutch cover was so very stiff I had to remove it.
This time I wanted a big clutch that was easier to push. And so the decision was easy for me.
A genuine OEM NOS 9-1/4” Auburn cover plate over top the factory NOS genuine Borg Beck driven disk.
Let me tell you not only is this clutch big, it is also easy to push. Feeling just like the smaller factory installed 8-1/2” clutches.



11-02 Clutch Control

The clutch control is the correct standard used for a 3B with 9-1/4” Auburn. I added adjustable clevis joints at the ends of each link. And of course a NOS release bearing and carrier assembly plus retracting spring.

11-03 Clutch Pedal

The clutch pedal and while I was at it; the brake pedal was changed over to the latter type with rubber push pads. This change provides less pad wear and better non slip function.


12-01 Fuel Tank

It’s extremely rare for me to use an aftermarket part yet here I used an aftermarket fuel tank donated by John B. As expected this tank was built wrong. The neck angle was off unless the tank was raised up about an inch. But as it turns out this particular Jeep requires the factory 1” thick white oak slats positioned under the fuel tank. This factory tank modification was used to help clear the Jeep T-98-A transmission.

12-03 Fuel Lines

Has original design hard lines going into a

12-09 Fuel Pump

NOS OEM NOS fuel pump AC 4693.

This pumps the gas up toward the carburetor via OEM factory optional fuel line into a NOS Willys approved optional “Skinner” fuel filter.

12-04 Carburetor

Next in sequence comes a nib Carter Zip Fit carburetor. The latest and greatest version; the 938 SD. After installation and upon initial start up the engine ran near perfect with only a very slight idle speed adjustment being required.



I have the option of installing new High altitude metering rods for use above 5000 or 10,000 feet.

Because this jeep has a NOS Carter and NOS AC pump I am only using ethanol free gasoline.

12-05 Air Cleaner

Of coarse the air cleaner is the correct and fully reconditioned Donaldson filter system including a genuine NOS air horn hose.

12-06,07,08 Choke, Trottle, Accelerator

The treadle control also the dash mounted throttle and choke cables are the standard factory items.

13-01 Exhaust System

Here I did some custom fabrication. One thing I hate is replacing old exhaust systems with all that rust and scale falling in my face as I remove the old worn out system.

So I bought up a lot of scrap 1-1/2” stainless .060 thick “hand rail tubing” and made my own. For design I simply copied the original pipes. Head pipe, exhaust pipe and tail pipe. The curves were all mitred and tig welded to form.

I did however use a genuine original NOS muffler in the mix. Otherwise even all of the clamps and hangers were fabricated just like the originals, only from stainless.

14-01 Radiator

Simply put ….The cooling system consists of an original honey comb cored Harrison that is in excellent condition.



14-02 Radiator Hose

Of course it has all new hoses without installing the unneeded early type bypass hose.

14-03 Radiator Guard

I have previously had a NOS 3B chaff screen and decided I do not like them, instead I opted to put a copper mesh screen attached direct onto the front of my radiator. It slips firmly into place just between the radiator and the grill guard. It is there to help keep bug debris out of the honey comb. The copper screen painted black is not obvious.



14-04 Water Pump

Yes you guessed it, the original cast pulley water pump was rebuilt with a genuine Willys water pump kit that was manufactured back in the early 1960’s.

 

Ken,

What a nice old Jeep! What is the floor coating?

 

Thanks Andy.

SEM “Rock it” bed liner.
The bed liner is applied direct onto the 2K epoxy primer before primer had cured (72 hour cure window)

Bed liner applied to all of the floor area, the firewall and complete bottom of the tub including wheel houses and bottom of fenders.

For my current projects I have switched to Upol “Raptor” polyurethane bed liner applied direct onto uncured SPI 2K black polyurethane primer.

Applied to uncured primer so it can adhere to the base coating.

 

I like it, and do understand why you apply it before the primer has fully cured. A friend of mine is a rep for Southern Auto Body and he has shown me microscopic pictures of epoxy primer at various stages of cure. Once cured the pores close up which prevents proper adhesion. This was a major problem in the auto industry when they started using such paint processes because vehicles often sat too long between primer and paint. A lot of 80s GM products had paint peeling off after only a few years.

However, that friend of mine paints a lot of stuff for me, and things like bumpers may sit for a long time after he primes them before I get around to painting them. If the epoxy primer has cured all that is needed for good adhesion is a good scuffing with a green Scotchbrite pad.

 

I did not realize that about the pores closing up. The SPI polyurethane primer gets so tight that it does not even require a top coat. And you can’t hardly hammer that stuff off. They say it’s near impossible to sand it for topcoat once it has cured.

 

Willys Group Index 15 Electrical

15-01 Generator and Parts

The generator was simply cleaned and had the bearings replaced with original bearings.

15-02 Starting Motor and Parts

Again was cleaned: painted plus NOS OEM bearings including the Bendix drive along with a new ring gear. Includes a correct 12 volt NOS Autolite starter mounted solenoid.



15-03 Distributor and Attaching Parts

I had a NOS IAT with vacuum advance but decided to install the latest and greatest NOS IAY 4401 instead.

15-04 Voltage Regulator and Parts

OEM NOS



15-05 Coil Wiring and Attaching Parts

NOS Autolite coil

15-06 Spark Plugs and Wires

NOS Borg Warner suppression wires



15-07 Body and Chassis Wiring

I hand built the various wiring harnesses using recycled original connectors. Built with vinyl color coded wires of proper gauge.

15-09 Headlights

Wagner Halogen


15-12 Foot Dimmer Switch

OEM NOS

15–12A Lighting Switch

NOS switch with old knob.

15-13A Starting Switch

NOS with key starter function

15-14 Stop Light Switch

NOS Borg Warner S-193



15-17 Horn and Bracket

NOS Sparton 12 volt military horn



Also the correct rebuilt Sparton turn signal switch that was correctly wired in as standard equipment.




16-01 Instruments

Old style gauges, all originals.

 

Beyond serving as my one and only daily driver the 1953 was put into tree cutting service the other day. At the time it had about 200 miles on it since rebuilt. It just got its initial oil change yesterday at 400 miles.

 

We had a lot of really nice weather this winter so I have been working outdoors a lot.
Will get back to some of the more impressive details if it ever gets back to being cold.
Thanks for following along …

 

Love Your helpers .