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1971 Clutch Cable Parts Diagram Request

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by DrDanteIII, Apr 29, 2019.

  1. Apr 29, 2019
    DrDanteIII

    DrDanteIII Master Procrastinator

    Milford NJ 08848
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    Does anyone have a parts diagrams for the adjusting hardware on a 1971 cable clutch? This is the long style cable (~58" cable) with no bell crank.

    I'm trying to figure out what hardware was used on the threaded end for adjusting.

    Thanks!
     
  2. Apr 29, 2019
    Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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  3. Apr 29, 2019
    jzeber

    jzeber Well-Known Member 2022 Sponsor

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  4. Apr 29, 2019
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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  5. Apr 29, 2019
    DrDanteIII

    DrDanteIII Master Procrastinator

    Milford NJ 08848
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    Thanks. That's exactly what I was looking for. It looks like that adjuster won't work for me. though.

    Mine is a 72 frame with a 70 body, using 70 through the floor pedals. To make the clutch work it runs the 71 cable. The threaded end of the cable passes directly through the throw-out arm, and is adjusted by a nut that hits the face of the arm.

    I was hoping to find some kind of conical or spherical-nosed adjuster nut that would allow some flex or movement of the cable in the throw-out arm. Basically something shaped like a lug nut.
     
  6. Apr 29, 2019
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    The piece that twin2 posted above is the stock adjuster for the 70-71 cable operated clutch. Sounds like you're going to have to improvise....
     
  7. Apr 29, 2019
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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  8. Apr 29, 2019
    Twin2

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    do you have this bracket on transfer case
    clutch cable bracket.jpg
    clutch diagram
    clutch cable - Copy.jpg
     
  9. Apr 30, 2019
    DrDanteIII

    DrDanteIII Master Procrastinator

    Milford NJ 08848
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    I do not have that bracket. My bracket is a homebrew welded on to the transmission crossmember. PO set it up. So it ends up being significantly closer to the throwout arm.


    Thanks Tim, I dont even need the nut itself to be threaded, I can always put the current nuts behind it.
     
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