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49'ish Cj2a- Project "motorboat"

Discussion in 'Flat Fender Tech' started by IRQVET, Jan 25, 2020.

  1. Feb 2, 2020
    timgr

    timgr Jeepin' Nerd 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2003
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    20,421
    Swap plugs and see if it follows the plug or the hole.
     
    IRQVET and 47v6 like this.
  2. Feb 2, 2020
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Member

    Oregon
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2015
    Messages:
    566
    Pic of the plug I pulled. After I cleaned the plug and reinstalled. I didn't see it leaking anymore. On a side note, the exhaust smelled like it was running rich as hell. Its a Solex carb and I heard they're sensitive to pressure. I was running it with the oil bath disconnected. :shrug:

    Brakes currently go to the floor, so there will be no driving it until I have brakes.
     

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    Last edited: Feb 4, 2020
  3. Feb 5, 2020
    Jay's WWII Jeeps

    Jay's WWII Jeeps Member

    Napa CA
    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2018
    Messages:
    54
    If you’re interested in an original good 2a frame I should have a couple of them. Most of the repo parts are made in China or Philippines, regardless of what some vendors may tell you.
     
    wheelie likes this.
  4. Feb 8, 2020
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Member

    Oregon
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2015
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    566
    Some progress made today. Connected all the positive PVC stuff and flushed the radiator.

    Pulled the head to investigate the supposed "blown head gasket" and I'm happy to report I did not see it, and all the head nuts'bolts came out without breakage! So I'm soaking the cylinders in Marvels Mystery oil (again) while I attempt to remove the studs that didn't come out on their own accord. I want to remove all the 70 year old studs and replace them with some f-script head bolts that I got from G503.

    I did notice some strange white stuff on a few valves. I'm curious what that is or what cased that? I didn't see any breakage of the head gasket material?

    Moving forward I have the new f-script water pump painted OD green and ready to install. Hopefully that will address the leaking issue once the new pump and gasket is installed.
     

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    Last edited: Feb 8, 2020
  5. Feb 8, 2020
    Jay's WWII Jeeps

    Jay's WWII Jeeps Member

    Napa CA
    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2018
    Messages:
    54
    I would avoid using bolts, they were replaced by studs mid war for a reason. Studs are far superior to bolts.
     
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  6. Feb 9, 2020
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Member

    Oregon
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    Feb 5, 2015
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    566
    Okay, thanks.
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2020
  7. Feb 9, 2020
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Member

    Oregon
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2015
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    566
    New head gasket went in, along with the NOS Ford cylinder head. Painted everything (temporary) as the engine will get repainted when I get around to having it rebuilt. Also decided to go with studs and not use the head bolts. Thanks for the advice Jay (y)
     

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    Last edited: Feb 10, 2020
  8. Feb 10, 2020
    ojgrsoi

    ojgrsoi Retired. 2020 Sponsor 2019 Sponsor

    Weatherford, TX
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    What are you using for OD paint? If I missed it I'm sorry.
     
  9. Feb 10, 2020
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Member

    Oregon
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2015
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    566
    Army Jeep Parts - GCI Paint

    24087 SEMI-GLOSS, 1957 to present.

    I went with semi gloss for corosion protection, as I can't say how long it'll take me to get around to having the engine rebuilt and thus repainted.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2020 at 9:45 PM
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  10. Feb 17, 2020 at 8:09 PM
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Member

    Oregon
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    Feb 5, 2015
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    Motorboat kicked my butt this weekend. . . . I am no mechanic!! (I think I mentioned this before) [​IMG]

    Everything that seemed straight forward, wasn't.

    1.) Previous Owner had the fire order off on the distributor as (#3 plug was in the plug #1); however, it was running although not correct. I rearranged the plugs into the correct firing order, and now I can't get it running.

    2.) Rear drums were on there like someone welded them together, with some kind rust adhesion (to the 1,000th power) that made them impossible to pry loose. Used a hub puller (for the first time) and rear driver side came off in a manner I can only describe a moderate explosion as the hub broke free. Same issue with the passenger side rear hub (except) the hub puller torn chunks out of the lip of brake drum. It finally came off, but now I need a new rear brake drum. Tried to rent one that attached to the threads, but none of them where big enough (wide enough) to to grab threads on each side.

    Feeling pretty defeated right now, feel like I took one step forward and three steps back. Motorboat sure kicked my butt this weekend. [​IMG]
     
  11. Feb 17, 2020 at 8:10 PM
    IRQVET

    IRQVET Member

    Oregon
    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2015
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    566
    I'm back at it as I still have some more weekend. [​IMG]

    I'm sure someone who is more mechanically inclined is going to read the following and roll there eyes. But I'm just learning over here and in no way any expert (or even competant) on anything I try to do mechanically. (Admit what you are, and what your not) Moving forward . . .

    I think I solved the timing issue, or at least improved it (after several hours of head scratching trial and error). It dawned on me that maybe the previous owner who installed the 12v distributor, might not have gone in incorrectly and might be a few teeth off??? The distributor appears fixed in place and does not twist back and forth like every other distributor I've seen when it comes to playing with timing, so I'm just spit balling here.

    So I went about verifying TDC by disconnecting all the plugs, hand turning the flywheel, and putting a paper towel in the hole of cylinder one. At TDC the compression would cause the paper towel to shoot out of the cylinder. Then I went back and determined the rotor was not in the traditional 5 o'clock position like the manual suggested (at TDC) when the paper towel shot out; but more like at 1 o'clock. So I moved the plugs around on the cap to compensate and viola, it fired right up smoother than its ever run.

    I went onto adjust the air/fuel mixture (again, something else I've never done) and the exhaust smoke went from white'ish to black'ish; but the engine sounded smoother and I was no longer smelling fuel in the exhaust. Again, I don't know if thats better or not? It had been sitting awhile before I purchased it so I'm sure it burning off alot of junk.

    So feeling cautiously accomplished, especially considering yeaterday's FUBAR; I went after the rear brakes.

    I removed the backing plates because it was hell trying to remove the nuts that hold onto the bottom of each of those brake shoes. You know, those bolts that have that square thing protruding out from them, the ones that you try to grasp as you back out the nut itself. I don't know what the technical term is for those bolts, at this point I'm calling them Satan's Nipple, as that is what I'm currently trying to remove . . . [​IMG]

    On a side note, I went to G503.com aka Ron Fitzpatrick Jeep Parts this a.m. Met with the Ron the owner and got a tour of his shop. Owner was a super nice guy. I was junk drunk as far as parts go. That dude has EVERYTHING for the flat fender crowd; although he specilizes in the WW2 military jeeps. I made sure to leave the credit card at home prior to making the drive. G503 is only about 60 miles from where I live. :ninja:
     

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    Last edited: Feb 17, 2020 at 8:17 PM
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