62cj5 F134 No Spark

im sooooo close uggh

Got all wiring finished. Wouldn’t turn over with key til I took sol off cleaned all connections and she cranks great!!
Not firing
I checked I do have 12v to + on coil with key on.
Has original points etc
Is there a way to test for bad parts or do I just buy points condenser cap rotor wires n plugs ?

 

Try filing and gaping points, they corrode while sitting.
And replacing all the ignition parts might not be needed, unless it's benn a while?
Be sure theirs 12v on coil while cranking, not just when key in on position.

 

You can test the coil by turning on the ignition , holding the coil wire by ground and opening the points with a screwdriver. It should spark every time you open the points. You can crank it over with the starter and it should throw a spark every time the points open. Good Luck

 

First, think in a logical order. Remove one spark plug, see if it sparks when you crank. If not, work back from there. Verify one thing at a time.

A basic tune-up to FSM spec (including points gap and distributor timing) is the first step in a diagnosis. New parts can be part of that, as cheap insurance. The other tips above may or may not be necessary, but are all good ideas if the history is unknown.

 

How’s the ground?

 

I went through the same issue time after time on my Jeep. The condenser kept blowing out. I would say after you track your issue down, check the insulators in the distributor, they can dry out and go bad which will cause you problems

 

So I took points out and filed them but they’re in rough shape. Weren’t aligned perfectly so wore the surfaces uneven.
How are you suppose to loosen and tighten the dang screw where the condenser points tab and wire lead goes since there’s maybe 1/4” between it and the dizzy housing????
The cj been sitting years before I got it. I had to take solenoid off and wire brush everything put back on before it would turn over with the key.
So I wouldn’t be surprised if I had to get new points condenser cap and rotor button. The tabs on the cap are oxidized pretty bad.
I cleaned up everything and put back in but I can only use a pair of needle nose to tighten screw.
Be nice if that was a tiny hex head???
Also the ends of those strap pcs on the points have part of the U missing.
It’s like 65$ to get all tune up stuff cap rotor points condenser wires plugs and oil filter.
I know it needs eventually but I’d really like to just hear it fire idk.
All new ground straps on tub and frame to engine
Headlights come on so I figured I have good ground as they weren’t yellow

 

Can you get new insulaters or is that a dizzy swap kind of thing??

 

Don’t the cap rotor and points have to be good for this to work?

 

I'll be out in the shop this weekend, I'll take some photos and show you where my problems came from to see if they match up with yours

 

Those inline spark plug testers are good to have, get yourself one at Harbor Freight.

 

Cool thx guy

 

Yea I got that. Also pulled plug out and checked. I’m hoping it’s just the points being dirty from sitting
Ordered a cap rotor points and condenser for 35$ from keiser shrugs. It needs it for sure either way. Wanna test coil tomorrow got too damn cold after sundown today

 

While our opinion on cold may differ, working outside in the winter is no fun. I installed a transmission in the driveway in January when I was 16... Never again

 

The points need to be clean, but by using a screw driver you take the cap rotor and wires out of the picture. When you pull the coil wire out of the cap and hold it by ground and open the points it should spark. That tells you the coil is working. You can take the points out of the test by taking the wire off the distributor and grounding it and the coil wire should spark when held close to ground. Then you will know if the points are dirty or bad. I hope this helps you pin point you problems. If it were my Jeep I would replace everything, cap, rotor, points, condenser, and wires, Then you should be good for 15- 20K miles. Good Luck

 

as long as the replacement condenser is any good seems like a run o bad ones lately

 

Condensers (also known as capacitors) have a shelf life. Lots of people will dispute this but it is an industry known fact. I don't know if there are any stamped markings to date the device and I really doubt they are recycled so the buyer is on his own. If you keep buying from the same supplier you are likely buying pieces from the same batch. Try a diff manufacture if possible.

 

Don’t run any myself. Had a few customers with issues. The only thing I still have with points is the old Honda sl125.

 

Not wanting to split hairs, but I suspect Walt is including all types of capacitors in his evaluation. Definitely, electrolytic capacitors will deteriorate with age, just sitting on a shelf. These are almost always polar, having a distinct (+) and/or (-) markings on the capacitor case. (There are non-polar electrolytics, but they are special and unusual).

I have a page about electrolytics, if you are interested: Rap on Replacing Electrolytic Capacitors

Your typical car condensor is a non-polar capacitor, made of (in the day) alternating layers of paper and foil (I've opened them to look). Today these are likely replaced by metallized plastic film, mylar (polyester) being the cheapest film available. The thickness of the film or paper determines the voltage rating of the part. These devices should not deteriorate just sitting on a shelf. However, they will deteriorate with use, albeit with a very long service life.

Not much to them. I would expect the usual failure would be a high tension puncture of the dielectric (insulator between the layers of foil or thin metal coating) which allows arc-over when in service. Not sure how you'd test that except using a high-voltage supply. You can test the capacitance and resistance with many multimeters, but the voltage used in the meter will be so low that an arc-over won't be tested for. Likely not worth testing beyond that - just toss it and try another.

RockAuto shows Delco, Standard and Airtex for this application, with two types of leads. I would accept any of those, though I sold a lot of Standard product in the past and it was of good quality. Both Airtex and Standard sells an "economy" part which I would avoid.

 

I believe Walt, but I have cars with condensers that must be several decades old still working.

And all this talk of failures baffles me. In 50 years of tinkering my own vehicles I'm not aware of ever having a failed condenser.